NJ 2.8 TD Rebuild

Post by **bravo** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:30 pm

Hi all.
Went for a short 4wd last weekend and went through a few small puddles on the track, the track was easy going no hard parts mainly just gravel with a few 6 inch deep puddles in some spots.
Anyway after this i started the car up the next day to hear a relitivly loud ticking noise. I thought it was the exhaust manifold leaking so i pulled it down and found a loose exhaust manifold bolt with stripped thread into the head. So i removed the manifold (checked for cracks) drilled out the head and put in a Helicoil, replaced both intake and exhaust manifolds and refitted everything thinking i had solved the problem.
Anyway I started it back up again and its still ticking. The ticking gets quieter as the car gets up to operating temperature.
Any idea on what would be the problem? And yes it has sufficient oil and good oil at that.
cheers for any help.

Post by **glenn_c** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 6:38 pm

Check you tappet clearance and harmonic balancer.
Regards Glenn

Post by **bravo** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:50 pm

Well i found the problem,
I removed the head and found that one of the combustion jets had fallen into the cylinder and caused major chaos.
I should be able to get the head rebuilt for about $1300, but not sure how much the block will cost to get resleeved and new pistons.
Options are:
1) rebuild head and get block sleeved and new pistons
2) complete motor from wreckers. about $3500 (to pricey i think)
3) Try find a delica front cut

What would you guys do and does anyone know of a place that has delica front cuts.
here are some pics

Post by **NJV6** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:39 pm

Argh - thats no good. I have only heard of them coming out if gotten really hot or/and overfuelling.

Post by **bravo** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:18 pm

yeah it was running like a dream before it happened not overheating issues or anything like that, these things happen i guess

Post by **bravo** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 5:14 pm

well i have mostly stripped the engine i just have the crank and pistons to remove. the head is off and getting a new casting and all the internals measured up to make sure they arent bent. once the block is seperated it will be sent off to be honed and cleaned, then a overhaul kit will be ordered so i can put it all back together again.

Post by **bravo** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 7:14 pm

well its been pretty easy only working on it and hour or so a day after work. the hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer bolt off. needed to borrow a 3/4 inch braker bar to get it to move. other than that its all been pretty easy. Also i picked up the head today and finished putting the starter motor back together after regreasing all the bearings and cleaning the crap out of it.

Post by **bravo** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 10:42 pm

pulled the pistons out today, just need to seperate the lower crank case from the block to get the crank out and then its off to the machine shope for a hone and clean before getting ready to put back together.

Post by **bravo** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:29 pm

finished stripping the block, so now its off to the machine shop when i get some time and money. in the mean time i will do little bits like fuel pump seals, and paint a few things.

Post by **bravo** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:52 pm

well finally got all the block back the other day after a 3 week holiday. Just started putting it back together.
the crank is in along with the lower crankcase

Post by **bravo** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:59 am

got a bit done last night.
All new pistons and ring are in
conrods are all bolted up with new bearings
oil pickup is in
front plate is on
done half the timing gear
fitted oil coiler, pump
fitter right hand layshaft

Post by **NJV6** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:22 am

Looking good, the 1st oil leak will make you cry!

Post by **bravo** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:54 am

NJV6 wrote:Looking good, the 1st oil leak will make you cry!

yeah i know i hope it will take a while before i find a leak

well the engine is finished being put back together and it just has to be put into the car now and everything hooked up, so not to long now i hope. i just need to find a engine crane to use

Post by **bravo** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:48 am

engine is back in the car with a new exedy clutch and pressure plate.
all the extra bits will have to be hooked up next week after work as i will be down south this weekend. I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel

Post by **bravo** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:24 pm

engine is all wired up. all i am waiting on now is a new harmonic balancer and finding out where a vac hose goes. other than that once the balancer is in all i need to do is pop the radiator in and fill it up will coolant and engine oil and crank it over.

Post by **dave_str** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:57 pm

Mate well done, hope she goes to plan.

Dave.

Post by **bravo** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:04 am

well i finished it off yesterday arvo, filled it with fluids and started her up. Started up pretty much first fire and ran real smooth. so toaday will be a bit of running in driving.

Post by **4ePajero** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 4:38 pm

Thanks for a good write-up!

Did you keep track of the costs?
If so give us an indication of the total rebuild cost.

Gerhard

Post by **bravo** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:09 pm

Head: $500
Block acid bath and bore $500
Crank Grind and Balance $150
Rebuild kit with all gaskets and pistons etc: $1000
Clutch: $620
Water Pump: $320
harmonic Balencer: $450 (ripped off from mitsubishi)
Pinion bolt: $60 (rip off from mitsubishi)
Gasket set for fuel pump: $30
Timing Chain: $20
Oil, coolant, glow plugs and stuff like that: approx $200

So all up about $3850

Tips: Buy a timing chain now while you still have the chance, as mitsubishi have changed the part from a double row chain to a single row chain which means you need a new idler sproket, cam sproket and tensioner. quoted $680 by mitsubishi. I could no longer get the double chain from any auto shop eg) coventrys, auto one, repco. But the guy who did my head and block found one for me for $20 new

Make sure you have the correct harmonic balencer on your car. At some stage in the past the harmonic balancer had been replaced on mine with one from a non turbo car. The only difference is the timing mark is 30 degrees out. So if you set up your injector pump timing to it the engine wont start. Thats why i had to buy a harmonic balencer from mitsubishi because all the ones from the auto shops were different so i wanted to make sure i had the right one. If i bought the harmonic balancer from the auto shop it would of cost $220 instead of $450

Have a good quality torque wrench

Have a big 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch breaker bar to undo head bolts and main bearing caps

Rattle gun to undo the crankshaft pully bolt

Use lock-tite Grey Max gasket glue, its what OEM's use

Label every single bolt in bags with what they are for. I did and it made life so much easier, i think i had about 50 or so different bags.

Make sure the engine crane can go high enough to get the engine out without hitting the roof in the garage and almost putting a hole in it

And drink lots of beer while doing it all.

Post by **NJV6** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:35 pm

Goood write up and info. And good it went 1st pop.

Glen

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NJ 2.8 TD Rebuild

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