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New prototype front radious arms for Nissan. So far It took the front of my 4by from 280mm standard to 600 mm of travel I disconnected the shock and got even more travel.
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With standard arms and bushes the diff is put into torsion ie: threw use of rubber bushes to give the difft the abilty to twist to the point were the bolt touches the housing Max twist max travel.
So if you give the radious arm a pivot point arround the rear bush in the arm on the diff on passanger side only, this will let the diff and bushes stay relaxed and allow flex.
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I am doing another 2 weeks of testing.
Will be ready for sale start of December
$1350inc gst plus freight per pair which is 1 standard drivers side arm 0 drop to 7"and one Mega flex arm 0 to 7" drop.
Email bruce@allmetalmagic.com.au
Last edited by Brutus on Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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If you take into account the Geometry for an A frame rear end the rap is only controlled by one point. I am certain that there is more steel in one patrol radius arm than 1 only 1" shaft that most A frame rear ends use to pivot around.
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turps wrote:
but lets face it big flex and handling don't go together. even with the superior arms which 'seem' to work well on road still need sway bars.
I disagree, I have the superior super flex arms and I'm more than happy with the handling and I don't run sway bars.
anzac wrote:more expensive than superior arms for sure.
By a couple hundred dollars and with the superior stuff, at least you get two arms
brutus wrote:$1500inc gst plus freight per pair which is 1 standard drivers side arm 0 drop to 7"and one Mega flex arm 0 to 7" drop.
Slightly more expensive, but still two arms. I would like to see this prove itself. When superior brought their product out, they had already done all the testing etc before releasing, so there wasn't really any if's or but's. This product still seems to be in the design stage, and I (like everyone else) would hesitate on these arms until the development has been completed.
Good luck to ya mate, good to see something else out there.
Brutus wrote:If you take into account the Geometry for an A frame rear end the rap is only controlled by one point. I am certain that there is more steel in one patrol radius arm than 1 only 1" shaft that most A frame rear ends use to pivot around.
An A frame is completely different. they don't compare. You have basically turned removing one bolt from a cheap stupid idea into an expensive one.
I came up with this idea because I did not wont to make a 5 link front end to get all that flex. Keeping a standard front diff and chassis mounts in my book makes it a lot easer for the home 4by customizer.
As for handling on road with the anti flex bolts in you have a standard set of drop radius arms and all the typical Nissan handling that goes with lifted 4bys.
Then to get very good flex with all the affects that go along with lots of front end flex all you have to do is remove the anti flex bolts and go play.
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oldmate wrote:
but lets face it big flex and handling don't go together. even with the superior arms which 'seem' to work well on road still need sway bars.
Since when? Have never "needed" to run swaybars on my shorty with superior arms, in fact, they aren't even drilled to bolt them on to start with
Brutus wrote:I came up with this idea because I did not wont to make a 5 link front end to get all that flex. Keeping a standard front diff and chassis mounts in my book makes it a lot easer for the home 4by customizer.
As for handling on road with the anti flex bolts in you have a standard set of drop radius arms and all the typical Nissan handling that goes with lifted 4bys.
Then to get very good flex with all the affects that go along with lots of front end flex all you have to do is remove the anti flex bolts and go play.
Good on you for trying something different mate - i honestly hope it works out.
In regards to testing etc., it might pay for you to supply 1 or two other comp rigs in order to get a broader range of product testing completed. I'd also look at (for test vehicles) LWB, SWB, Ute, big lift, smaller lift, and also a combination of engines and tyre size. Just to cover all bases.
have seen these work on a 7" lifted troll ute, with plenty of grunt, power up steep off camber hills, down some gnarly off camber hills, and generally perform very well in a local comp in various terrain, very well. so far cant pick a negative. then stuck the bolt in n drove it home, one very happy owner
rammer60 wrote:have seen these work on a 7" lifted troll ute, with plenty of grunt, power up steep off camber hills, down some gnarly off camber hills, and generally perform very well in a local comp in various terrain, very well. so far cant pick a negative. then stuck the bolt in n drove it home, one very happy owner
You could do the same with an X-link for half the price. or just take out a bolt