Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Steering Damper On A 1987 ND Pajero
Moderator: -Scott-
Steering Damper On A 1987 ND Pajero
Wanting To Put A Steering Damper On My 1987 ND Pajero, It Has The Mount On The Chassis But None On The Draglink, What Is The Best Way Of Fitting It To It. Do A Chase Up A Early NA Pajero Non-Power Steering Draglink And Bolt That In, But Does It Fit??
90 LWB PAJERO 3.0 V6 Manual -35" Muddys 3" Body Lift 2" Suspension Lift custom bars front and rear. Custom side rails
Yep my NH had the chassis bracket but nothing on the drag link.
If you crank the torsion bars the chassis bracket will be higher than the drag link and won't line up.
The chassis bracket was a pin mount from memory and the clamp mount you can get for the drag link are also pin mount so I reckon you would have to swap the chassis mount to an eye type to cater for any misalignment (lift). If your not raising then all is good with the pin mounts.
Correct me if I'm wrong guys about the mounts but I distinctly remember the mount orientation would have to be changed to stop any binding after a torsion bar crank.
I never actually did this mod as I didn't think it was necesary.
I believe steering dampers were only fitted to non power steering early Paj's.
Huddo do you think the damper has made any difference ?
If you crank the torsion bars the chassis bracket will be higher than the drag link and won't line up.
The chassis bracket was a pin mount from memory and the clamp mount you can get for the drag link are also pin mount so I reckon you would have to swap the chassis mount to an eye type to cater for any misalignment (lift). If your not raising then all is good with the pin mounts.
Correct me if I'm wrong guys about the mounts but I distinctly remember the mount orientation would have to be changed to stop any binding after a torsion bar crank.
I never actually did this mod as I didn't think it was necesary.
I believe steering dampers were only fitted to non power steering early Paj's.
Huddo do you think the damper has made any difference ?
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
These are the best pics i could get without taking the bash plate off.....
Chassis end
Drag link end
After install
I welded some angle to the RH side Chassis and used a "ball joint" type dampener i had at work. I had made a bracket up to weld where the genuine one goes, however when i sat it up with the pin type dampener i didn't like the angles as you say Frank. It looked like it would bind easy. The only thing i has to make sure of was that the dampener was positioned on the drag link so it didn't fowl on the bash plate and chassis when turning. We actually have a customer that has bought the TJM listed dampener for his NJ with genuine mount and he say's there has been no issue.
The height of suspension won't come into play as the drag link is connected to the idler and pitman (obviously) which are bolted to the chassis, so the dampener mount and drag limk will be raised together with torsion bar crank.
It has made a difference on road. It doesn't bump steer anymore and the front end feels more "solid" when going over slight bumps etc in the road where the wheel used to "rattle" with corrugations. Haven't really had it off road since install but am doing the high country at x-mas which will give it a good test.
Gabe
Chassis end
Drag link end
After install
I welded some angle to the RH side Chassis and used a "ball joint" type dampener i had at work. I had made a bracket up to weld where the genuine one goes, however when i sat it up with the pin type dampener i didn't like the angles as you say Frank. It looked like it would bind easy. The only thing i has to make sure of was that the dampener was positioned on the drag link so it didn't fowl on the bash plate and chassis when turning. We actually have a customer that has bought the TJM listed dampener for his NJ with genuine mount and he say's there has been no issue.
The height of suspension won't come into play as the drag link is connected to the idler and pitman (obviously) which are bolted to the chassis, so the dampener mount and drag limk will be raised together with torsion bar crank.
It has made a difference on road. It doesn't bump steer anymore and the front end feels more "solid" when going over slight bumps etc in the road where the wheel used to "rattle" with corrugations. Haven't really had it off road since install but am doing the high country at x-mas which will give it a good test.
Gabe
Have I missed something? - As I see it when you raise your front with the Torsion bars the drag link goes up with the chasis - it is fixed to it through the steering box and idler after all.
For me, mine had no mounts at either end so made mine to fit with a Pin at each end. A Range Rover one
Just had to make sure it didn't hit the drag link as it runs through its arc of the steering box, it'd be easy to mount it to close to the link.
For me, mine had no mounts at either end so made mine to fit with a Pin at each end. A Range Rover one
Just had to make sure it didn't hit the drag link as it runs through its arc of the steering box, it'd be easy to mount it to close to the link.
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests