Hi guys, Just been pricing 2" suspension lifts around Brissy for the Fez today and I've got a couple of estimates but there's some diferences and I'd like some help comparing them if you don't mind. (its a 95 narrow track if that makes any difference)
1st is from Fourby's:
Tough Dog shocks all round
Rear springs reset (with an additional one i think)
Wind up TB's 40mm
new poly bushes
longer stronger U-bolts
Complete wheel alignment
$1350 including labour.
2nd is from Pedders (they gave me a light and heavy duty estimate):
Pedders comfort gas shocks all round (or sportryder nitrogen gas for heavy duty)
Pedders new rear springs
Wind up TB's
poly bushes
U-bolts if needed
Complete wheel alignment
$1450 including labour. ($1590 heavy duty)
Few questions. What do you think of the pricing and is ther anywhere else that I might be able to try?
If not I'm thinking that for the extra $100 at Pedders the new rear springs might be better than resetting my originals. But are pedders own shocks as good or better than Tough Dog shocks? and if I do go with pedders would the heavy duty be too much?
Was also thinking that I should try somwhere that does monroe shocks?
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Pricing Suspension lifts
Moderator: Tiny
I got my suspension from www.suspensionstuff.com.au
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... 05f2e0082f
$890 for new rear leafs (plus bushes etc) and shocks all round. add another $350 if you want heavy duty torsion bars.
Free freight too (they're located in qld).
If you go to your local mechanic they'll be able to fit it for you. It will probably come out cheaper.
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... 05f2e0082f
$890 for new rear leafs (plus bushes etc) and shocks all round. add another $350 if you want heavy duty torsion bars.
Free freight too (they're located in qld).
If you go to your local mechanic they'll be able to fit it for you. It will probably come out cheaper.
DO NOT USE Pedders shocks, whilst i was waiting for my Bilsteins i fitted Pedders gas and they didn't last a single trip - complete failure of 1 front and 1 rear.
When I returned them they said that they were NOT covered by warranty because they had been used "off road". Just WTF did they think a 4WD was likely to be used for ?
Complete waste of time and $$$
When I returned them they said that they were NOT covered by warranty because they had been used "off road". Just WTF did they think a 4WD was likely to be used for ?
Complete waste of time and $$$
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
hey guys
i got my suspension lift from ultimate suspension http://www.ultimatesuspension.com.au its a bit pricey and the only downside to their lift kit is that the leaves is very very stiff. On a bumpy road, the feroza bounces all over the place
i got my suspension lift from ultimate suspension http://www.ultimatesuspension.com.au its a bit pricey and the only downside to their lift kit is that the leaves is very very stiff. On a bumpy road, the feroza bounces all over the place
It gave me 2 inches in the back and I've wound up the T bars about 30mm.mik_08 wrote:Thanks for the heads up. That looks great mate! how much lift did it give you? and what are the shocks like, hard/soft ride?(I'm guessing you got the $390 set) will have to find out how much labour will cost
The suspension has been going great for me, it's not too bumpy (for a feroza). The shock performance has been pretty good for me on road and off road they've been doing just fine.
If all you're doing is going for clearance to fit bigger tyres, the cheaper and easier option is to do a body lift.
Yeh well I am looking for reasonably cheap but the main thing for me at the moment is trying to improve my rampover angle as much as possible because I'm getting hung up on some of the sharper angles (though it is very quickly teaching me to pick good lines 
).
So i was thinkin that I'd go for the suspension lift as that'll improve it a bit and goin from 30" A/T's to 31" M/T's after that if I need it.
How long have you had your Ultima shocks? and what sort of off road do you do most?
Thanks for answering all my questions I just don't want to spend too much or too little if that makes sense. Cheers!
). So i was thinkin that I'd go for the suspension lift as that'll improve it a bit and goin from 30" A/T's to 31" M/T's after that if I need it.
How long have you had your Ultima shocks? and what sort of off road do you do most?
Thanks for answering all my questions I just don't want to spend too much or too little if that makes sense. Cheers!
Or maybe some underbody protection should be invested in first to protect oil pan, tranny case, cat converter etc? any opinions there? suggestions on plate thickness? I've got the pattern off WARFS but want to double check it with my chassis first. anyone else used this?
So many options! it's doin my head in just tryin to prioritize! (lol help with this might be good too haha)
So many options! it's doin my head in just tryin to prioritize! (lol help with this might be good too haha)
The factory "skid pan" doesn't withstand serious use at all well - its way too thin and flexible, and doesn't actually cover the leading edge of the front diff ( what were they thinking.... ? ). Its biggest issue is that it will bow up in the middle after a few "bangs" leaving the front diff VERY exposed - which will lead to diff damage.
I managed to shear all the mounting lugs off the front diff housing early on due to that exact problem.
Whatever you make ensure that it protects the diff lower edge as a matter of priority. You can pull the front diffs lower edge up a bit by playing with the thickness of the rubber bushes on the front diff mounting leg ( and the side ones if you want too ) . its not a lot but it all helps.
This is quick and free but does change the pinion angle slightly. Hasn't been a problem with Mouse thus far so i'd do it.
I managed to shear all the mounting lugs off the front diff housing early on due to that exact problem.
Whatever you make ensure that it protects the diff lower edge as a matter of priority. You can pull the front diffs lower edge up a bit by playing with the thickness of the rubber bushes on the front diff mounting leg ( and the side ones if you want too ) . its not a lot but it all helps.
This is quick and free but does change the pinion angle slightly. Hasn't been a problem with Mouse thus far so i'd do it.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Its not thickness that counts its rigidity......
If you use stiffeners / gussets on a thin plate it will be MUCH stronger than plate on its own. The same logic is used by mnaufactureres when they press form panels with folds etc etc. "Speed Holes" have formed radi for exactly the same reason - strength.
Try flat sheet of paper vs a folded one.
So a thin - well gusseted plate is much more effective than a single "heavy" plate.
On the down side full length skid plates do collect LOTS of crap.
If you use stiffeners / gussets on a thin plate it will be MUCH stronger than plate on its own. The same logic is used by mnaufactureres when they press form panels with folds etc etc. "Speed Holes" have formed radi for exactly the same reason - strength.
Try flat sheet of paper vs a folded one.
So a thin - well gusseted plate is much more effective than a single "heavy" plate.
On the down side full length skid plates do collect LOTS of crap.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Thanks MM I talked to a guy at a workshop and he can get me some 3mm Mild steel sheet for free and some angle if needed to strengthen it (is it necessary at this thickness? as folded gussets at this thickness is impossible with our tools)
also saw the plans on this thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1777957.php#1777957 and asked him what he actually used. will wait and see.
also saw the plans on this thread http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1777957.php#1777957 and asked him what he actually used. will wait and see.
Well free is VERY ATTRACTIVE....... 3mm way over the top but I understand your interest.
I'd still be using angle ( use as an upside down V ) to add bend resistance - particularly at the leading edge and between the mounting points.
I'd still be using angle ( use as an upside down V ) to add bend resistance - particularly at the leading edge and between the mounting points.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Spoke to the workshop guy again and there's also some 2mm and 1mm and the angle's still there.
If 3mm's way over the top then how would i best use the 1 or 2 mm? where would i put the angle and what spacing?
from what you said in the other thread i'd put it across though I'm struggling to picture how this would help much
wouldn't putting the angle across mean that if you landed on the angle the whole sheet would fold at that point? and jam itself into the torsion bars, tranny case etc? or does yours follow the chasis rail profile? do you have photos of yours? I'm don't think i'm getting the right picture.
as for those washers round the cap screws... sounds like a good idea!
If 3mm's way over the top then how would i best use the 1 or 2 mm? where would i put the angle and what spacing?
from what you said in the other thread i'd put it across though I'm struggling to picture how this would help much
wouldn't putting the angle across mean that if you landed on the angle the whole sheet would fold at that point? and jam itself into the torsion bars, tranny case etc? or does yours follow the chasis rail profile? do you have photos of yours? I'm don't think i'm getting the right picture. as for those washers round the cap screws... sounds like a good idea!
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