hey guys
it looks likes its leaking from the front diff from the drive shaft?
does any body here know if this can be a DIY backyard job? or if there are special tools involved?
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leaking front diff??
Moderator: Tiny
leaking front diff??
Last edited by misterhoang on Thu Nov 19, 2009 12:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
Appears as though the driveshaft oil seal has failed. They're under $10, I got mine from a bearing supplier as they are a common item (just need the old part number which they can crossreference).
You can see whats involved in replacing the seals by reading the "Front and Rear Differential" manual (here) and get an idea on whether or not you can do it at home (its not hard, but maybe have a helper on-hand for the tricky bits).
I have linked to the American 1992 "Rocky" manual, as the USA calls their Feroza's a "Rocky" and don't have the Rocky's that we do - this manual is much clearer (higher resolution scan) than the "Feroza" one (which can be found here).
You can see whats involved in replacing the seals by reading the "Front and Rear Differential" manual (here) and get an idea on whether or not you can do it at home (its not hard, but maybe have a helper on-hand for the tricky bits).
I have linked to the American 1992 "Rocky" manual, as the USA calls their Feroza's a "Rocky" and don't have the Rocky's that we do - this manual is much clearer (higher resolution scan) than the "Feroza" one (which can be found here).
Tool options depend on exactly how you do it.
For me its a pair of external circlip pliers and a ball joint "puller" to disconect the steering arm form the hub. ( as well as standard tools like sockets and ringspanners).
Once the top ball joint is unploted from the top arm, i've been able to swivel the hub around far enough to pull the driveshaft.
The depth of seal insertion needs to be the same as original for the seal to work ( measure ) especially as some of the aftermarket seals have thinner outer sleves ( still work 100 % ).
Putting the shaft back in can be a challenge as the retaining clip on the inside of inner CV becomes a PITA. Packing it with grease to hold it central usually helps - but you still need to hold your tongue just right sometimes. Dont force it otherwise you'll just damage your new seal.
Takes about 2 hours without killing yourself ONCE you've done it before so say double that for a first time.
For me its a pair of external circlip pliers and a ball joint "puller" to disconect the steering arm form the hub. ( as well as standard tools like sockets and ringspanners).
Once the top ball joint is unploted from the top arm, i've been able to swivel the hub around far enough to pull the driveshaft.
The depth of seal insertion needs to be the same as original for the seal to work ( measure ) especially as some of the aftermarket seals have thinner outer sleves ( still work 100 % ).
Putting the shaft back in can be a challenge as the retaining clip on the inside of inner CV becomes a PITA. Packing it with grease to hold it central usually helps - but you still need to hold your tongue just right sometimes. Dont force it otherwise you'll just damage your new seal.
Takes about 2 hours without killing yourself ONCE you've done it before so say double that for a first time.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I didnt see the pics before posting my previous response. Doesnt look like anything has got caught around the shaft and worked in under the seal lip, unless its been leaking for quite a while.
Try grabbing the shaft, and giving it a good shake. There should be no up and down movement. If there is, then suspect a crook bearing.
Try grabbing the shaft, and giving it a good shake. There should be no up and down movement. If there is, then suspect a crook bearing.
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