bj on roids wrote:I would get the 4.2, they out accelerate the LS6!
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then the nice slow 4.2 (or if modded nice quick) 4.2 will happily tow the grenade home once againDirty wrote:I wouldn't be so sure. The 3.0 teamed up with an auto will do a better job than the 4.2 when towing. Actually it will do better in everything except the sand and when in low range (you need 85% reductions with the 3.0) At best the 4.2 will try and keep up with the 3.0 when in the hills until it gets hot and you have to lift off to bring the temps down, at which stage the 3.0 keeps going and disappears over the hill and blows up.DanwinGQ wrote:As for performance I know a 3 litre wont get anywhere near my 4.2. It had a fair amount of money thrown at it over the years and went pretty hard for an old tractor.
Thats the bit I dont get.. Look at Toyonissan, and several others that have cut their losses on their grenades... It really is hurting people.Bingham wrote:Nissan australia says everyone is happy so not sure where this is all coming from![]()
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ok they could barely pull a cat off a cushion in stock form, but depends where you plan on driving them, sometimes 200 killerwasps isn't everything.I don't get the love affair some people have with the 4.2
yeah but you can fix that by getting two dogs that bark like fark at people walking past your house.Bingham wrote:
bit like buying a house in a shit area cause it cheap then getting broken into 4 times ay ear and living next to noisy drung dealing trash..... wish you had spent the extra few grand but you did not have it at the time....
Asking again... if you bought a used one that seemed to check out okay, and you installed these gauges, how safe would you be? Could previous abuse mean it's a ticking time bomb or is it more that they are either okay or dead?300WinMag wrote:install a boost gauge aswell as a pyrometre. Cheap insurance compared to 10k + rebuild or replacement engine. If you don't take our advice your a fool, if you check peoples profiles you will find out alot of us are tradesman and engineers.
well i get what your saying. the first crack in the piston could already be there. it may run for ever with out a problem, but it may just blow a week after you get it.chimpboy wrote:Asking again... if you bought a used one that seemed to check out okay, and you installed these gauges, how safe would you be? Could previous abuse mean it's a ticking time bomb or is it more that they are either okay or dead?300WinMag wrote:install a boost gauge aswell as a pyrometre. Cheap insurance compared to 10k + rebuild or replacement engine. If you don't take our advice your a fool, if you check peoples profiles you will find out alot of us are tradesman and engineers.
I would say that the motor would have had to have been through some very hard times (intentional or not) for it to fail later with the gauges installed.chimpboy wrote:Asking again... if you bought a used one that seemed to check out okay, and you installed these gauges, how safe would you be? Could previous abuse mean it's a ticking time bomb or is it more that they are either okay or dead?
Thanks, that's what I meant. For example an engine I used to have was prone to dropping valve seats if overheated. The thing was that they didn't necessarily drop at the exact moment they were hot. All you needed was a bit of a history of overheating. This meant that a used one was always going to be a risk no matter how good it looked.brad-chevlux wrote:well i get what your saying. the first crack in the piston could already be there. it may run for ever with out a problem, but it may just blow a week after you get it.chimpboy wrote:Asking again... if you bought a used one that seemed to check out okay, and you installed these gauges, how safe would you be? Could previous abuse mean it's a ticking time bomb or is it more that they are either okay or dead?300WinMag wrote:install a boost gauge aswell as a pyrometre. Cheap insurance compared to 10k + rebuild or replacement engine. If you don't take our advice your a fool, if you check peoples profiles you will find out alot of us are tradesman and engineers.
Hi Bingham, no one has said that they are being driven too hard?Bingham wrote:If the guages are as important for these motors as suggested and we are all "driving them to hard" then what every 3L will be easing of the pedal to do 90km/hr & All but stop towing. ?????
all fair points, the follow on would be has any of the gauge boys on the 3L's noticed such issues then what are they and how was it rememedied.. ?? Taking to shop to lower boost or fuel or simply easing off on hills from now on...whitiepatrol4x4 wrote:Hi Bingham, no one has said that they are being driven too hard?Bingham wrote:If the guages are as important for these motors as suggested and we are all "driving them to hard" then what every 3L will be easing of the pedal to do 90km/hr & All but stop towing. ?????
In standard form, they are designed to tow and be driven as hard as you like. The ECU has set parameters which allow for these full load conditions, the problem is that the ECU is not designed to be able to tell if its sensors are telling it porkies.
These motors can be driven all day at their max load, but if a sensor plays up, you could exceed the operating parameters of the motor and the ECU would be no wiser.
Bring on the gauges, with boost and EGT gauges (really only need an EGT gauge but boost is a nice to have for mods or fault finding), the owner is now able to keep a weather eye on what the electronics are up to.
Bottom line is that with the gauges on, the motor cannot overboost or over fuel without you knowing about it so you can take remedial action and not harm the motor.
If the motor is not forced to operate outside its designed tolerances by people who are none the wiser, it will give you many years of faithful service as noticed by people who have striped them down.
There will still be the odd real mechanical fault, but these are rare as hens teeth compared to the engine failures caused by a faulty sensor that could have been avoided by the installation of the gauges.
My thoughts exactly.whitiepatrol4x4 wrote:Hi Bingham, no one has said that they are being driven too hard?
In standard form, they are designed to tow and be driven as hard as you like. The ECU has set parameters which allow for these full load conditions, the problem is that the ECU is not designed to be able to tell if its sensors are telling it porkies.
These motors can be driven all day at their max load, but if a sensor plays up, you could exceed the operating parameters of the motor and the ECU would be no wiser.
Bring on the gauges, with boost and EGT gauges (really only need an EGT gauge but boost is a nice to have for mods or fault finding), the owner is now able to keep a weather eye on what the electronics are up to.
Bottom line is that with the gauges on, the motor cannot overboost or over fuel without you knowing about it so you can take remedial action and not harm the motor.
If the motor is not forced to operate outside its designed tolerances by people who are none the wiser, it will give you many years of faithful service as noticed by people who have striped them down.
There will still be the odd real mechanical fault, but these are rare as hens teeth compared to the engine failures caused by a faulty sensor that could have been avoided by the installation of the gauges.
Too funny, simple fix would be to use a different engine oilKiwiBacon wrote:Of course one guy I know has a ZD30 powered pathfinder/terrano which has given no problems but sounds like a dryer full of spanners when it starts up, even in warm weather. It's that which would turn me off buying one.
The Nissan boys rarely lower boost or fuel as the ECU does that, more common is to just replace the MAF sensor - it can be tested with a voltmeter for correct operation. Some people that go remote bush keep a spare in their kit.Bingham wrote:all fair points, the follow on would be has any of the gauge boys on the 3L's noticed such issues then what are they and how was it rememedied.. ?? Taking to shop to lower boost or fuel or simply easing off on hills from now on...
What would be an expected run of the mill max egt on the 3L when working... Still working on the 500?
Interesting. I know this guy doesn't change his own oil but I'll save that info for someone who does.whitiepatrol4x4 wrote:Too funny, simple fix would be to use a different engine oilTell him to try the Dello 400 15W40 which is JASO DH-1 certified, that should fix the spanner problem
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Good advice KiwiBacon, I clean mine with electronic contact cleaner (non residual type) every serviceKiwiBacon wrote:On the MAF issue. I own two nissan cars, a 98 and a 2000. Both use the same hot film sensor which could be the same as the ZD30's of that error. I've cleaned both with contact cleaner at different times, picking up fuel economy and power on both vehicles. One is petrol, the other a YD22 diesel.
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