hey guys i posted a topic ages ago asking about hilux diffs in a zooki vitara and if it could be done and most silly ppl had there say so for those who gave good advice and helped me out this is for them to show how far ive got so far hope u like it....ill probly still get silly ppl having there say but such is life hahaaha!!!!!!!!GO THE ZUKS!!!!!!!
http://s396.photobucket.com/albums/pp42 ... ter=images
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vitara build up running hilux diffs
vitara build up running hilux diffs
Last edited by preecy on Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:18 pm, edited 6 times in total.
don't worry....i've been called worse. but you might want to make you're pics more accesible. maybe photobucket or similar?
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
i've got no time for this facespace thingo, start a build up thread for all to see...preecy wrote:ill put it off private sorri guys didnt realise see if it works then
---------===== LOWRANGE JUNKIE =====---------
atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=162392" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=162392" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: zooki vitara build up
I don't see a thing mate where are the pics of this "Luxtara"??preecy wrote: this is for them to show how far ive got so far hope u like it...
God Of Emo
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lay80n- yeah its getting there i want to have it going soon hopfully , sorri but who were u again sorri mate i was talkin about it to lots of ppl lol
exc-thanx mate ,not as of yet mate it still needs a rear t-shaft,reducion gears,front shocks and few other things but i will let use know once i hav taken it out dont expect it soon tho lol
exc-thanx mate ,not as of yet mate it still needs a rear t-shaft,reducion gears,front shocks and few other things but i will let use know once i hav taken it out dont expect it soon tho lol
How close to final spring specs is this? If the spring rates are correct front to rear, and there's no obvious bind in the front suspension, you REALLY need to increase rear roll stiffness, probably with a sway bar. On compound angles (i.e climbing+side angle) that's going to get very spooky set up like that. You should be looking for about 50% of the articulation being done by the front end when flexed like that.
If you are aware of this and the front is locked out or something at the momet, that's cool.
Oh, and I'm not crazy about the mismatched angles between the panhard and drag link - you might find the bumpsteer is excessive.
I like the general look of it and the stance though.
Steve.
PS just checked another photo and it looks like you have calmini front springs in the front at the moment. They might be a good length, but they have about 100% too much rate for what you are looking for. Try the rear springs from the calmini kit in the front, or any other vitara rear springs you can find.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Air shocks aren't known for adding roll stiffness. Take the springs out of the front and try again. ( I assume you have bumpstops in there - with bumpstops only the front should have very low roll stiffness and flex well - If the front still doesn't flex well then you need to look at if the front is binding somewhere.
You'll notice that the front springs are much further outboard than the rear airshocks. At the moment, when you flex the rear end, you're probably getting twice the movement at the tyre than travel on the airshock. That means that the roll stiffness on the rear is almost nothing and that's why even with very soft springs in the front, it still won't flex.
Big flex is nothing without balance. To get balance, you need to add roll stiffness to the rear. Don't try to take it all out of the front - you will end up with a loose, floppy dog of a car to drive. There's two ways you could do it easily - move your airshocks right out - try and get the bottom mount as close to the wheels as possible, and don't lay them over too far. You might still end up running a swaybar in the rear though to force the front to work.
Why is it important to make the front work? Well, as you drive on to something with your current setup, the front will dictate the angle the body sits on. That will mean that the high side front wheel will unweight, and in extreme cases, like if you're also climbing or on the power, the car will try and roll itself even with the back wheels on the ground. Have a look at what happened to Roothy's scat at tough truck last year - an excellent example of what happens with heavily mismatched roll stiffness in extreme situations.
As an aside, I'd be taking LOTS of travel out of the rear to make the car more predicatable, especially under power.
Just some thoughts. I'm coiling the rear of my car now, and whilst it's leaf in the front ( for the moment) I'm trying to run as much rear roll stiffness as I can to keep the car balanced.
Steve.
You'll notice that the front springs are much further outboard than the rear airshocks. At the moment, when you flex the rear end, you're probably getting twice the movement at the tyre than travel on the airshock. That means that the roll stiffness on the rear is almost nothing and that's why even with very soft springs in the front, it still won't flex.
Big flex is nothing without balance. To get balance, you need to add roll stiffness to the rear. Don't try to take it all out of the front - you will end up with a loose, floppy dog of a car to drive. There's two ways you could do it easily - move your airshocks right out - try and get the bottom mount as close to the wheels as possible, and don't lay them over too far. You might still end up running a swaybar in the rear though to force the front to work.
Why is it important to make the front work? Well, as you drive on to something with your current setup, the front will dictate the angle the body sits on. That will mean that the high side front wheel will unweight, and in extreme cases, like if you're also climbing or on the power, the car will try and roll itself even with the back wheels on the ground. Have a look at what happened to Roothy's scat at tough truck last year - an excellent example of what happens with heavily mismatched roll stiffness in extreme situations.
As an aside, I'd be taking LOTS of travel out of the rear to make the car more predicatable, especially under power.
Just some thoughts. I'm coiling the rear of my car now, and whilst it's leaf in the front ( for the moment) I'm trying to run as much rear roll stiffness as I can to keep the car balanced.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
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Contact:
I was the Navi for the big blue 40. You were sitting on our car float talking about the vit on sat arvo/evening.preecy wrote:lay80n- yeah its getting there i want to have it going soon hopfully , sorri but who were u again sorri mate i was talkin about it to lots of ppl lol
exc-thanx mate ,not as of yet mate it still needs a rear t-shaft,reducion gears,front shocks and few other things but i will let use know once i hav taken it out dont expect it soon tho lol
As Steve said, get the travel balanced front to rear and work on your roll stiffness. It will be a nice stable rig.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
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