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10'' flare's for 96 coily
10'' flare's for 96 coily
iv tried searching but couldent find any thing looking for some 10'' flares like the bush wacker ones any ideas
PigDog wrote:yer when the gq diffs go under it it will have 37''
hope its not gonna be driven on public roads.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
To answer your question - You're not going to find anything 10" wide. You might (just) be able to find some 8" wide TJ rear flares, but it won't be cheap or easy.
From your posts, it sounds like you intend running the 33 15's on stock diffs until you upgrade to GQ.
This is a terrible idea for a number of reasons. Firstly, a 33 15 has totally the wrong shape of footprint to provide useful control offroad.
The width, weight and traction of these tyres will destroy your axles. We run some big tyres in the club here in Vic (up to 35 13.5 Krawlers on steel beadlocks) and the rear axles don't like them. We are running doubletough CV's in the front of our cars and they are very good - but you are coil sprung so they are not available to you.
The massive width ( I assume you'll be running 10" or 12" rims) will make the car cop bait and it will be impossible to steer offroad.
Gearing 33's isn't all that easy in a coiler.
Your car won't handle or brake anywhere near as well as a stock coiler. All of the weight of those tyres will be placing loads on every part of the car's steering and suspension it wasn't designed for. THATS why it won't be legal. Unlike some illegal cars though, it won't even work very well, which kind of seems a waste.
If you really want 33's on a coiler, why not run 33 10.5's on 7" rims? Same clearance, infinitely better contact patch shape, and much less hassle - you might even be able to find flares to cover them.... or if you want even better performance, how about some 7.50 16's or 9/34's?
As for GQ diffs - well, you'll need 37's on GQ diffs to go anywhere near where a sierra on 33's could go. That's a lot of work for an outright loss in capability - as you'll be gq width, you'll fall in all their holes. All the added weight will result in lots of lost performance, on and off road, and the massive increase in unsprung weight will ruin the handling. You'll have to resolve the rear driveshaft angles (which will be weird with a short wheelbase and a centred rear diff) and try to get the front diff centre to miss the chassis rail without having the car 12" taller than it is now.
The thing about building a strong car is that it's all about strength to weight, not strength alone, or else we'd all just put truck diffs under our cars. If you can add strength whilst adding the minimum weight, you get a far better outcome- which is why we spend so much time building stronger suzuki diffs.
And in any case, 37's are illegal on a GQ, let alone a sierra. I think you need to go and talk to an engineer and redefine your parameters a bit if you intend to build a car like this to use on the road.
All up, I think the least of your problems are you choice of flares.
Just my 2C.
Steve.
From your posts, it sounds like you intend running the 33 15's on stock diffs until you upgrade to GQ.
This is a terrible idea for a number of reasons. Firstly, a 33 15 has totally the wrong shape of footprint to provide useful control offroad.
The width, weight and traction of these tyres will destroy your axles. We run some big tyres in the club here in Vic (up to 35 13.5 Krawlers on steel beadlocks) and the rear axles don't like them. We are running doubletough CV's in the front of our cars and they are very good - but you are coil sprung so they are not available to you.
The massive width ( I assume you'll be running 10" or 12" rims) will make the car cop bait and it will be impossible to steer offroad.
Gearing 33's isn't all that easy in a coiler.
Your car won't handle or brake anywhere near as well as a stock coiler. All of the weight of those tyres will be placing loads on every part of the car's steering and suspension it wasn't designed for. THATS why it won't be legal. Unlike some illegal cars though, it won't even work very well, which kind of seems a waste.
If you really want 33's on a coiler, why not run 33 10.5's on 7" rims? Same clearance, infinitely better contact patch shape, and much less hassle - you might even be able to find flares to cover them.... or if you want even better performance, how about some 7.50 16's or 9/34's?
As for GQ diffs - well, you'll need 37's on GQ diffs to go anywhere near where a sierra on 33's could go. That's a lot of work for an outright loss in capability - as you'll be gq width, you'll fall in all their holes. All the added weight will result in lots of lost performance, on and off road, and the massive increase in unsprung weight will ruin the handling. You'll have to resolve the rear driveshaft angles (which will be weird with a short wheelbase and a centred rear diff) and try to get the front diff centre to miss the chassis rail without having the car 12" taller than it is now.
The thing about building a strong car is that it's all about strength to weight, not strength alone, or else we'd all just put truck diffs under our cars. If you can add strength whilst adding the minimum weight, you get a far better outcome- which is why we spend so much time building stronger suzuki diffs.
And in any case, 37's are illegal on a GQ, let alone a sierra. I think you need to go and talk to an engineer and redefine your parameters a bit if you intend to build a car like this to use on the road.
All up, I think the least of your problems are you choice of flares.
Just my 2C.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
You certainly won't end up with a more capable car by building a GU wagon. In fact, you'd need well over a 36" tyre on a GU to match a sierra with 32's on it.
I don't think you need to scrap the suzuki idea- I just think you need to forget about GQ diffs or 15" wide tyres.
Steve.
I don't think you need to scrap the suzuki idea- I just think you need to forget about GQ diffs or 15" wide tyres.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
If you really HAVE to run bigger diffs, you'll be wanting Bundera, not Hilux. The centred rear will be a PITA.
That said though, why not try a 7.50 16 or a 235/85 16 on a GV rim? You'll have pretty much the same clearance as a hilux diff and 35's but without all the hassles.
There are some options for a front locker, or you could swap in a whole jimny front end and investigate the european HD CV's available for the jimny - then you can run an airlocker front, not easily achievable with the coil front end. (although it is possible)
If this all seems like too much work and hassle, it's MILES less work than getting a coiler working right with toyota diffs under it.
It sounds like you really have a hankering for a big tyred car, but as someone who has owned and built big projects, it's an exercise in diminishing returns, especially once you are looking at big heavy diffs.
Steve.
That said though, why not try a 7.50 16 or a 235/85 16 on a GV rim? You'll have pretty much the same clearance as a hilux diff and 35's but without all the hassles.
There are some options for a front locker, or you could swap in a whole jimny front end and investigate the european HD CV's available for the jimny - then you can run an airlocker front, not easily achievable with the coil front end. (although it is possible)
If this all seems like too much work and hassle, it's MILES less work than getting a coiler working right with toyota diffs under it.
It sounds like you really have a hankering for a big tyred car, but as someone who has owned and built big projects, it's an exercise in diminishing returns, especially once you are looking at big heavy diffs.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
the more rubber on the road, the more rolling resistance but less ground pressure. thats why the mexicans are running 34-9.PigDog wrote: and a was going to run the bigger tyres for the less rolling resistance
i'm using a 33-10.5. not quite as good but they are 2 years old now and have never seen the road so rolling resistance is the least of my worries
WANTED: swb vitara rear seat. the 3 seater bench type
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
PigDog wrote:air shocks only
PigDog wrote: got a coily coz I liked the look of it and iv built big patrols and a scat that ran big tyre's before
ahhh....patrols....making more sense now.
the reason i ask about driving it on the roads is that many people have been trying to fight the VSI-50 regulations and driving a zook with 37's on the road with little or no considerations to engineering is a kick in the arse to the people trying to stop or amend it......but more fuel for the people supporting it. just a thought.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
no........just 'air shocks only' on the road is not a good thing.PigDog wrote:and I know my grammar is shit thea was ment to be a full stop after air shocks.
RUFF is the english nazi...........not me.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
hilux diffs / bundera rear diff is the best possible route imoPigDog wrote:but as u said u can't get cromemolly axles for the coily mabey I need to swallow my pride and put lux diffs under it and just some 35's and a was going to run the bigger tyres for the less rolling resistance
but i see your from vic.
so the terrain is different from what i wheel so could be completely wrong for you.
Team UNDERDOG #233
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
PigDog wrote:but as u said u can't get cromemolly axles for the coily mabey I need to swallow my pride and put lux diffs under it and just some 35's and a was going to run the bigger tyres for the less rolling resistance
If you want to look into chromo coily front alxes, look at getting chromo 1.3 CVs without the inner axles (just replacement CVs and outers etc). then get custom inner shafts out of 4340, made to suit the coily length and 1.3 chromo spline end. Will cost more than the incredibly cheap double toughs ATM, but will still be sub $1000 easily.
I have not done this myself, or seen it done, but I'm pretty confident it will work.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
pretty sure coilers run a shallower spindle and smaller swivel ball so clearancing and a spacer between the hub and free wheeling hub might be required to run leaf CV's and stubs in a coiler, but it would be worth investigating.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Gwagensteve wrote:pretty sure coilers run a shallower spindle and smaller swivel ball so clearancing and a spacer between the hub and free wheeling hub might be required to run leaf CV's and stubs in a coiler, but it would be worth investigating.
Steve.
Don't know myself. Could you maybe run entire 1.3 swivel hub assembly?
(assuming the swivel ball is the same size)
I thought basically all model "Jimny" series Suzukis ran the same size swivel ball.
pretty poor check; but the ebay swivel hubs kits says it suits all of them:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/King-Pin-Swivel- ... 1c0e0087ef
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
s
go on lowrange.com thay do the bushwacker type n i think gq,s under a zook would be good on n off the road. ive got hilux,s n 2" wheel spacers n 37,s on beeblocks n drive that on the street n is alot more stable n coily cv,s r nothing like older sierra ones same as the inner axel n the front diff center is also smaller n thay all brake with standard tyres
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