Smart Dual Battery systems

[Wozza244]

I have a setup tourer, and currently have a triple battery system but having a few small probs with it and want to basically get this system pulled out and start again with one of these "smart" systems.
Im running a big cranker start battery and 2 deep cycles.

I have alot of accessories and a winch and adding more all the time and really want a hassle free trip when i go. Money is no issue, i want it done properly the first time.
4wd monthly has a camping mag and i saw a bit of an article on power systems i want more info before i go tearing in.
I wont be running solar.

Has anyone setup one of these?

What sort of cost am i looking at?

What brand?

[PBBIZ2]

Check out Sterling Power based in UK. This guy has set-ups to suit multiple battery installation, plus boost chargers as well. I have run his gear for 10 years and its solid, trouble free but can be expensive with the exchange rate. Sterling does have limited technical support in NSW if required. The guy in NSW can also supply the gear if required - I just went direct as I didn't know this technical/sales support was avail until recently.
My set up was a single cranker, then 3 deep cycle batteries as auxiliaries.

[ledgend80]

wouldn't a redarc do the job

[stuee]

It depends on how smart you want the system to be Wozza. You've got a system like PBBIZ2 suggested which costs dollars but offers individual battery management or a basic system thatt legend80 suggested, being the redarc VSR.

I guess it comes down to how much you are willing to spend and whether you think the benefits are worthwhile.

I would suggest a Traxide SC80 (I personally run on of these) in the following setup (edit* bottom pic):



This system is similar to a redarc but set-up for triple batteries. Its switching logic is different from the redarc also.

There are a heap more suggested setups shown here: http://www.traxide.com.au/trax1sc80_2.html

But if you get into contact with drivesafe on this forum he will be able to help you with a system that is more inline with what you want.

[Wozza244]

wouldn't a redarc do the job

No, redarc has a small brain and wont do the job like i want it to.

The type Stuee has posted is right looking but i need 150amp or maybe greater im not too sure yet i think 150 should be fine, i like a bit of overkill.

I really want the type that will sense a voltage drop when im winching, sense when the battery is full and pass it down the line to the next battery, probably with a manual override for the winching part actually but you get the drift i just want it to be like clockwork, no hassles no fixing bits and modifying bits, the right setup first time.

I have read a little bout these "smart" systems and i like what im reading cause it sounds basically trouble free.

[drivesafe]

Hi wossa, here is a diagram of a set up using one of my SC80 controllers, this should meet your needs!

[Wozza244]

thanks for the replies, we are getting somewhere thats for sure, nothing beats feedback from real life situations, not garbage written in magazines and companies who only care about your hard earned money.
Cheers!!

[bazzle]

I think the best setup is a multi battery diode type.
http://www.surepower.com/isolator.html


Part number 13023A or 2403 model.
Keeps ecah batt seperate, allows equal voltages and no moving parts.

Bazzle

Edit: Long links really suck!

[drivesafe]

Keeps ecah batt seperate, allows equal voltages and no moving parts.

And suffers from voltage drop.

While newer versions of diode isolators have reduced the voltage drop they still need to have the vehicle’s regulator increased to make them an equal to a relay type isolator and as more and more new vehicles are coming out with voltage varying alternators, the lower voltages these new vehicles work at just increases the problem.

They also need to be in a well vented mounting location because of the heat generated when handling medium to high currents.

[PBBIZ2]

wozza,

have you looked at the Sterling - Power "Alternator to battery charger' set-up? Its dead simple to hook up and has a lot of smarts built in, but it is big in size and might be a pain to locate under the bonnet.

There are units rated to 210amps listed. Yes, they will be more expensive than the systems offered by others, but maybe the systems by traxide and Redarc will do the job adequately. Guess it comes down to how hard you want to stand on the 150amp rating and also the cost?

You mention a 150amp rating - what size is your alternator? or are you talking about the ability to draw 150a from the battery to the winch? If thats the situation, then just run big cables from the battery to the winch.

I used to run a 200a alternator thru 2 x 130amp low volt drop diode isolators, with voltage sensing on the downstream side of the isolators. This worked well, but the alternator was seperately regulated by another computer - all very complicated and maybe more than you want?

After all this extra effort and cost, I reckon I didn't get the extra bang for buck I was expecting, so the point is, spending more may not deliver more.

Just my thoughts anyway. Hope it helps.

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

Read this
http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/batteri ... lated-life

Diodes suck
90% of things are relays
I like Traxide's relays
Clever things are over $1000 to control your alternator direclty - generally used for marine.
The Redarc voltage stepup thingy is an interestign idea - be interesting to bench test with long runs compared to a good alternator / thick wire. Might be useful in cars that pull back the charge heavily based on engine temp.
Deep Cycle wet cells are slow to charge.

Paul

[PBBIZ2]

Paul,

generally agree with your comments. The diode system was all that was around when I set my system up, but since then a number of zero volt drop isolators have come onto the market.

My system is perhaps more applicable with a boat, but still works fine in a 4WD, at greater expense unfortunately than other systems on the market, hence my comment about the greater cost V return.

My diode system works fine under the current setup but does suffer from the 0.3V loss across the elements. The charge computer compensates for that though. I have heard issues with diode isolators overheating and blowing, but have not had that problem, either with these Sterling units or the Surepower units which are higher VD. My system has done approx 100,000klm and diode system all fine. Having said that, when/if they do blow, I will replace with a different technology.

[wheeleybin]

PBB1Z2
The alternator to battery charger that you mention has two new models 80A and 130A that are a lot smaller than the old style which is 280x250x70 but they are still there in 90A 160A and 210A.
Wheeley

[T_Diesel]

I have a setup tourer, and currently have a triple battery system but having a few small probs with it and want to basically get this system pulled out and start again with one of these "smart" systems.
Im running a big cranker start battery and 2 deep cycles.

I run this exact setup using a Piranha DBE180S Smart system. I'm running two Optima Yellow Top deep cycles (one 55 AH, and the other is 85 AH or there abouts) and an high CCA cranking battery which the winch is wired directly to. All up, I run about six power outlets and i've never had any issues at all with it.

The DBE180S will also take input from Solar panels. I had the same unit in my GQ running two batteries (cranking and deep cycle) and again it was faultless. I wouldn't f^&k about with any other unit now, as I have been away with plenty of people that have had issues with other brands and makes.

IMHO, the extra $$$ for the Piranha system is worth every cent because it works faultlessly.