G'day guys, after selling my ute to get a more family based car (one with more room) I've decided I want a GQ, heard nothing but good things about them, and seem to have spare parts aplenty.
So is there anything in particular I should be looking for and/or staying well clear of as i start looking through the local paper?
Any thoughts on petrol or diesel, etc. And certain trouble spots which only you blokes would know about that I can be on the lookout for?
Any help would be great,
cheers
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
GQ MARKET
stay away from diesel 2.8's and 3's..
the diesel 4.2 is the way to go if you want fuel economy and dont mind a little sluggish car u can always turbo them and they are very reliable.. check that the transfer has no noises and the gear box aswell.. can also pop the engine oil cap off whilst running if there is massive ammounts of smoke stay clear..
petrol 4.2 has alot of power but can chew through the juice
the petrol 3.0s are sluggish but from what i have heard/read they can return better economy figures then the 4.2 but for extra power you can put a tubo from a vl on quite easily..
other then that check the Brake pads.. as when they are low they will litterally fall out.. have had this happen..
the diesel 4.2 is the way to go if you want fuel economy and dont mind a little sluggish car u can always turbo them and they are very reliable.. check that the transfer has no noises and the gear box aswell.. can also pop the engine oil cap off whilst running if there is massive ammounts of smoke stay clear..
petrol 4.2 has alot of power but can chew through the juice
the petrol 3.0s are sluggish but from what i have heard/read they can return better economy figures then the 4.2 but for extra power you can put a tubo from a vl on quite easily..
other then that check the Brake pads.. as when they are low they will litterally fall out.. have had this happen..
gudday
they can have a few rust issues.
usually around the front and rear half sills, roof/guttering, rear windows, rear wheel arch area.
check for rust blisters or bog and you'll be sweet.
as for mechanical the 4.2 manual is bullet proof but the auto can be a bit temperamental with the standard valve kit it in it and without a trans cooler.
good luck
they can have a few rust issues.
usually around the front and rear half sills, roof/guttering, rear windows, rear wheel arch area.
check for rust blisters or bog and you'll be sweet.
as for mechanical the 4.2 manual is bullet proof but the auto can be a bit temperamental with the standard valve kit it in it and without a trans cooler.
good luck
GQ with 30 PSI of TD42T.........
If your looking at autos take it on the highway at 100 or prefereably 110 and see if the torque converter will lock up, and disengage properly.
The autos are great when they work, but the manuals are bullet proof, this was the first auto I ever drove in the bush and couldn't believe how easy it was.
Diesels are a slug, unless they've got a turbo on them. If your willing to go with dual fuel the petrols aren't too bad economy wise. I'm averaging around $13-15 per 100km (21L/100km) in mixed driving which is around the figures the diesel will get, but you end up filling up every 400km.
Mine leaks oil like bitch, I'm slowly chasing them down but the current spots I've found are the fuel pump, rear main and timing case seal (I think that's what its called where the alternator belts hook up)
Garth covered all the main spots your going to see rust.
I'm not sure what the prices are like over your way, but up here they varied between about 4-10k. With the EFI models usually being 6 or above. It took me a couple of months but I managed to grab an early petrol auto with light panel damage and light mods (2"lift, tyres, front locker, tranny cooler) for $4.6k unrego. There's very little difference in price between dual fuel and petrol, so if your looking at petrol I'd deffiantely be going for one on gas.
The autos are great when they work, but the manuals are bullet proof, this was the first auto I ever drove in the bush and couldn't believe how easy it was.
Diesels are a slug, unless they've got a turbo on them. If your willing to go with dual fuel the petrols aren't too bad economy wise. I'm averaging around $13-15 per 100km (21L/100km) in mixed driving which is around the figures the diesel will get, but you end up filling up every 400km.
Mine leaks oil like bitch, I'm slowly chasing them down but the current spots I've found are the fuel pump, rear main and timing case seal (I think that's what its called where the alternator belts hook up)
Garth covered all the main spots your going to see rust.
I'm not sure what the prices are like over your way, but up here they varied between about 4-10k. With the EFI models usually being 6 or above. It took me a couple of months but I managed to grab an early petrol auto with light panel damage and light mods (2"lift, tyres, front locker, tranny cooler) for $4.6k unrego. There's very little difference in price between dual fuel and petrol, so if your looking at petrol I'd deffiantely be going for one on gas.
its possible...
the gas is mixed with thge diesel before injection... so the diesel is bassicly just used as an ignitor...
means your already economic deisel will last twice as long...
dont know of anybody running this system or how well it works but ya can bet with a 2.8, turbo or not youll be overtaken by three legged turtles
the gas is mixed with thge diesel before injection... so the diesel is bassicly just used as an ignitor...
means your already economic deisel will last twice as long...
dont know of anybody running this system or how well it works but ya can bet with a 2.8, turbo or not youll be overtaken by three legged turtles
My mate has 2.8 Turbo diesel, if you want some decent power go 4.2 petrol or diesel-Turbo'd. His fuel ecconomy was terrible for 2.8 something like 400km's to 80Ltr fuel 
, only reason was his foot was flat to floor every gear pretty much.
, only reason was his foot was flat to floor every gear pretty much.1991 4.2 petrol shorty, dual batteries, IPF spoties, ROH Alloy's, roof racks, 2inch lift kit, 33 inch tyres, 2 1/2 inch exhaust with extractors, rock sliders
have got a 91 GQ lwb 4.2, no it has no leaks, its just marking its territory, slowly fixing all leaks but the oil out of the alternator threw me for a bit.
a GQ is like a high maintainance missis, spend weeks priming it for a good thrashing then start over, and so the cycle begins, but once your've had that thrash, all your gonna want is a little more.
a GQ is like a high maintainance missis, spend weeks priming it for a good thrashing then start over, and so the cycle begins, but once your've had that thrash, all your gonna want is a little more.
Okay, a few things to look for. cracks at the drivers/front passenger seat mounts/floor. Also under the drivers feet, cracking along the floor pan where it bends up towards the pedals. Will give a clunking sound when stressed and can be mistaken for another well known problem, worn body mounts. they can easily be replaced though and not a hard job either.
Manual gearbox. 5th gear syncro can go on them, but its not the end of the world. Mine was stuffed but I just dropped my revs right off before changing to 5th and it was fine. Drove it like that for about 2 years.
The gearbox should be nice and quiet as should the transfer case. They can be a bit hard to change down to 1st and second when cold but should change easily once warm.
4.2 Diesels are slugs but very reliable. Can be woken up with a turbo kit. The 3 litre petrols need the turbo otherwise it is not worth it.
The 4.2 petrols are great and have plenty of power. They are thirsty to the point of actually being able to notice the fuel gauge dropping on a short journey. Put on gas they are great. Just get the biggest gas cylinder they can fit under it though. Try and get an EFI model.
Power steering pump tends to leak on the GQ's as well.
With a 2+ inch lift and some decent tyres, a GQ will go anywhere as it is without too many problems. They have a very strong driveline.
Manual gearbox. 5th gear syncro can go on them, but its not the end of the world. Mine was stuffed but I just dropped my revs right off before changing to 5th and it was fine. Drove it like that for about 2 years.
The gearbox should be nice and quiet as should the transfer case. They can be a bit hard to change down to 1st and second when cold but should change easily once warm.
4.2 Diesels are slugs but very reliable. Can be woken up with a turbo kit. The 3 litre petrols need the turbo otherwise it is not worth it.
The 4.2 petrols are great and have plenty of power. They are thirsty to the point of actually being able to notice the fuel gauge dropping on a short journey. Put on gas they are great. Just get the biggest gas cylinder they can fit under it though. Try and get an EFI model.
Power steering pump tends to leak on the GQ's as well.
With a 2+ inch lift and some decent tyres, a GQ will go anywhere as it is without too many problems. They have a very strong driveline.
GU Patrol intercooled TD42T, lifted, Cheezy sliders, ARB air locker, beadlocked Claws, Warn winch
yes yes yes and the worst crack of all? (and i dont mean my x wife) right near the stearing box on the chassis! sometimes very hard to spot but theres quite a few with them getting around, also take em for a drive and get round the 80klm speed for a bit and make sure no dreaded nissan wobble!1TUFFGQ wrote:Okay, a few things to look for. cracks at the drivers/front passenger seat mounts/floor. Also under the drivers feet, cracking along the floor pan where it bends up towards the pedals. Will give a clunking sound when stressed and can be mistaken for another well known problem, worn body mounts. they can easily be replaced though and not a hard job either.
Manual gearbox. 5th gear syncro can go on them, but its not the end of the world. Mine was stuffed but I just dropped my revs right off before changing to 5th and it was fine. Drove it like that for about 2 years.
The gearbox should be nice and quiet as should the transfer case. They can be a bit hard to change down to 1st and second when cold but should change easily once warm.
4.2 Diesels are slugs but very reliable. Can be woken up with a turbo kit. The 3 litre petrols need the turbo otherwise it is not worth it.
The 4.2 petrols are great and have plenty of power. They are thirsty to the point of actually being able to notice the fuel gauge dropping on a short journey. Put on gas they are great. Just get the biggest gas cylinder they can fit under it though. Try and get an EFI model.
Power steering pump tends to leak on the GQ's as well.
With a 2+ inch lift and some decent tyres, a GQ will go anywhere as it is without too many problems. They have a very strong driveline.
[color=lime][b]Im not a gyno but ill take a look at it for you![/b][/color]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests