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Pull to the right under brake
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Pull to the right under brake
my runner has started pulling to the right under brake. not sure why. does asnyone have any insight into the possible cause. cheers
4x4 tool kit: Duct tape and a BFH . If it moves and it shouldn't, use the tape, if it doesn't move and it should, use the hammer.
Tim
Tim
Master of my own domain
God of Magnificant Ideas!
cheers for the ideas fellas. i know the left caliper works cause iv tested it. there are no leaks or anything. didn't touch brake line so i no that i haven't lost pressure in it. so thats not the problem. probably just need to wear down the surface rust on the disc and should b fine. ill drive it for a week and see how it goes. if the problem persists then ill look into it more. but thanks for all the ideas guys. cheers
4x4 tool kit: Duct tape and a BFH . If it moves and it shouldn't, use the tape, if it doesn't move and it should, use the hammer.
Tim
Tim
Middo wrote:cheers for the ideas fellas. i know the left caliper works cause iv tested it. there are no leaks or anything. didn't touch brake line so i no that i haven't lost pressure in it. so thats not the problem. probably just need to wear down the surface rust on the disc and should b fine. ill drive it for a week and see how it goes. if the problem persists then ill look into it more. but thanks for all the ideas guys. cheers
The build up of scale on the disc is evidence that the caliper is either not working or is not working well enough to make contact with the disc. It may have been working under test, but not when you need to stop. I've had pistons sieze due to mud ingress, could this be the case?
It rubs the lotion on it's skin or else it gets the hose again
It's obviously bad enough to put a post up here,
Don't drive it untill you've fixed it. If you have to brake in an emergency and end up heading towards oncoming traffic...............
Rust on the rotor shouldn't make it pull right, the rust would have been removed after the first few applications.
My money is on a seized pistion on the LHS caliper. I know you say you've tested it, but if it's full of mud and scale it will stick now and then until it gives up and seizes for good...
Take it to a brake joint and let them have a look.
Don't drive it untill you've fixed it. If you have to brake in an emergency and end up heading towards oncoming traffic...............
Rust on the rotor shouldn't make it pull right, the rust would have been removed after the first few applications.
My money is on a seized pistion on the LHS caliper. I know you say you've tested it, but if it's full of mud and scale it will stick now and then until it gives up and seizes for good...
Take it to a brake joint and let them have a look.
sorry to clear up. the caliper is the one iv had on my car since i bought it so i know that its working. there is no problem with the caliper. iv taken it for more of a drive and it seems to b fixing itself. so ill keep u posted. cheers
4x4 tool kit: Duct tape and a BFH . If it moves and it shouldn't, use the tape, if it doesn't move and it should, use the hammer.
Tim
Tim
yeh little bit more pull to the left wen driving in a straight line. only very minor though. might get an allignment done and c if that helps. cheers struth. hey i havnt got that part yet. did u send it on monday?Struth wrote:Get your alignment looked at, if replacing all those parts altered your castor or camber it could cause it to pull under brakes.
Have you noticed any steering differences as well?
Cheers
4x4 tool kit: Duct tape and a BFH . If it moves and it shouldn't, use the tape, if it doesn't move and it should, use the hammer.
Tim
Tim
went for another drive today. the slippery surface rust has all been worn down and my braking is now back to normal. thought that would b the problem. cheers for all the help guys
4x4 tool kit: Duct tape and a BFH . If it moves and it shouldn't, use the tape, if it doesn't move and it should, use the hammer.
Tim
Tim
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