Hey all,
I am looking at buying an 80 series with the factory turbo'd motor in it. However the owner says that there is a knock in the bottom of the motor. The motor has done just over 400,000kms and im just wondering how much it is going to cost me if i have to get the motor rebuilt? He also has a normal 1hz motor that he bought to put in it and said that because the engine knock is in the bottom of the motor he was just going to switch the bottom of the two motors. Im no mechanic so I have no idea if this can be done or not. The car is going for pretty cheap but im not sure how much it is going to end up costing me. Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me out here
Cheers
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1HD-T/1HD-FTE engine rebuild cost - engine knock
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
The crank is the same I"m pretty sure, rods and pistons are definitely different.
I would stick to rebuilding the 1hdt, rebuild it while it just knocks and not before it goes bang and more stuff is wrecked.
Cost wise i would expect a mechanic to charge around 10grand with the injectors and injector pump done two. If you have a mate that's a mechanic you can save a lot in labour
I would stick to rebuilding the 1hdt, rebuild it while it just knocks and not before it goes bang and more stuff is wrecked.
Cost wise i would expect a mechanic to charge around 10grand with the injectors and injector pump done two. If you have a mate that's a mechanic you can save a lot in labour
Re: 1HD-T/1HD-FTE engine rebuild cost - engine knock
its going cheap because he is trying to sell you his problems.Grylls wrote:Hey all,
The car is going for pretty cheap but im not sure how much it is going to end up costing me.
Reco 1HD-t are available for around $5500 but wont include pump and injectors or turbo, and you will have to fit it, or if your not mechanically inclined, pay someone to fit it.
The 1hd-t and 1Hz motors have basically the same block and I think the crank is the same, but theat is about it, combining the two is not really an option, and wont save any money.
after having just rebuilt a 1hd-t on the cheap, (over $2k just in parts, and it looks like its gone pear shaped) I would say keep looking for one that is a going concern.
yep i wouldn't expect change from 10s when paying somebody. considering the age of the rest of the vehicle i'd offer the seller about 1g The average working 12 valve turbo 80 is in the 12k mark.
as for melding a 1hz and 1hd well you need to acertain why the 1hd failed in the first place, and has it damaged the parts you need to make a working motor. ie the head, the 1hd pistions, crank and rods. Are these parts reuseable? Also this is a motor that has done 400,000 that's gettin up there for a 1hd. the head is not likely in top shape, nor is the turbo and injection system. not to mention the rest of the truck. gearbox, diffs, brakes etc.
Buying it will be a gamble. since you don't know if the motor is even rebuildable.
as for melding a 1hz and 1hd well you need to acertain why the 1hd failed in the first place, and has it damaged the parts you need to make a working motor. ie the head, the 1hd pistions, crank and rods. Are these parts reuseable? Also this is a motor that has done 400,000 that's gettin up there for a 1hd. the head is not likely in top shape, nor is the turbo and injection system. not to mention the rest of the truck. gearbox, diffs, brakes etc.
Buying it will be a gamble. since you don't know if the motor is even rebuildable.
you need to read a bit better. It is just a knock at this stage.oldmate wrote:yep i wouldn't expect change from 10s when paying somebody. considering the age of the rest of the vehicle i'd offer the seller about 1g The average working 12 valve turbo 80 is in the 12k mark.
as for melding a 1hz and 1hd well you need to acertain why the 1hd failed in the first place, and has it damaged the parts you need to make a working motor. ie the head, the 1hd pistions, crank and rods. Are these parts reuseable? Also this is a motor that has done 400,000 that's gettin up there for a 1hd. the head is not likely in top shape, nor is the turbo and injection system. not to mention the rest of the truck. gearbox, diffs, brakes etc.
Buying it will be a gamble. since you don't know if the motor is even rebuildable.
He may be able to get away with a crank grind and big end and main bearings. It is a bit of an unknown. depends on what you call a good price. I would possibly chance it myself and do the bigends etc. But if your not at all mechanical or dont have contacts, I agree with above keep looking around for a good runner. Ijust picked up a 92 good runner in good nick with a little under 400ks for 10g, so there around, just keep looking.
I have some history on the car. My bosses father in law first bought the it brand new. He then sold it to my boss and finally my boss swaped it with his brother in law for a van because he needed one for work. So the car has been in the family its whole life. It has been out west and has done alot of high way k's. The owner of the car asked a wrecker how much they would give him for the car and they offered him $4000. So thats how much he wants for the car and im pretty sure the spare 1hz motor that he also has comes with it. The car has everything on it and the only money I would have to spend wound be on fixing the motor. I want one with the factory turbo'd motor and its also the gxl model which is also another reason I wouldnt mind it. I am thinking about doing a conversion and making it into a ute so i dont want one with the barn door back. The owner said that the knock being in the big end so you might be right there midi. Do you have any idea what that would cost to replace? Does everyone think that this is a good buy or not?
I think it is a bloody good buy, especially if you get the 1hz with it and it is in good nick. You could sell the 1hz and it would go a long way towards a rebuild of the 1hdt. If it just needs big ends etc then even better. Although in your position I would sell the 1hz and rebuild the motor and pump and injectors. You would come out of it for less than 10g total outlay with years of being trouble free from the engine. Thats my opinion anyway>Grylls wrote:I have some history on the car. My bosses father in law first bought the it brand new. He then sold it to my boss and finally my boss swaped it with his brother in law for a van because he needed one for work. So the car has been in the family its whole life. It has been out west and has done alot of high way k's. The owner of the car asked a wrecker how much they would give him for the car and they offered him $4000. So thats how much he wants for the car and im pretty sure the spare 1hz motor that he also has comes with it. The car has everything on it and the only money I would have to spend wound be on fixing the motor. I want one with the factory turbo'd motor and its also the gxl model which is also another reason I wouldnt mind it. I am thinking about doing a conversion and making it into a ute so i dont want one with the barn door back. The owner said that the knock being in the big end so you might be right there midi. Do you have any idea what that would cost to replace? Does everyone think that this is a good buy or not?
Ps, if you dont, I will lol.
The turbo diesels were / are renowned for failing big end bearings.
To the point that they are considered a consumable item and changed at 100,000 km along with the timing belt.
Before you buy it drop the sump, remove the big ends and inspect both the bearings and the crank. The bearings will be stuffed so if that is all that is wrong and the crank has no damage/ wear / pitting replace them and see how it goes.
While your there do a compression and leak down test on the engine.
Well looked after they can go for a lot more than 500,000km
Have a look at the LCOOL site;
http://www.lcool.org/forum/index.php
and the offroad 80's site;
http://www.offroad80s.com/index.php
you will need to register for both, but its free.
Cheers
To the point that they are considered a consumable item and changed at 100,000 km along with the timing belt.
Before you buy it drop the sump, remove the big ends and inspect both the bearings and the crank. The bearings will be stuffed so if that is all that is wrong and the crank has no damage/ wear / pitting replace them and see how it goes.
While your there do a compression and leak down test on the engine.
Well looked after they can go for a lot more than 500,000km
Have a look at the LCOOL site;
http://www.lcool.org/forum/index.php
and the offroad 80's site;
http://www.offroad80s.com/index.php
you will need to register for both, but its free.
Cheers
Reliability lies in the state of your wallet.........
Enjoy your family,friends and kids,remember no one gets out alive.
Enjoy your family,friends and kids,remember no one gets out alive.
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