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bit of a novice to this kinda stuff, so forgive the stupid questions. i've got some mates that can do the welding for a tube bar for the front of my zook... i'm not looking for a winch bar, just something for lights n stuff.
what kinda tube to i need? talking to a tube bending dude, he suggested 50mm OD, and 3.2mm walls... is this gonna be strong enuf to take a few gentle nudges from rocks and trees? (they always seem to jump out at me ). got quoted $15/bend, seems to be a decent price...
also, i'm not sure how to do the chassis mount part so that's it's solid. any advice and/or pics of this part of the bar??
cheers,
steve
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part of the newy conspiracy...
i'd use 32NB pipe. the overkill engineering bar looks well proportioned on a zook.
i never finished my bar but with the chassis mount, i made |__| brackets that goes around the chassis just in front of the bump stop mounts. i think it was made from 75mm wide, 3mm thick flat steel. i also made a bracket to suit the factory bull bar holes at the end of the chassis rails.
N*A*M wrote:i'd use 32NB pipe. the overkill engineering bar looks well proportioned on a zook.
i never finished my bar but with the chassis mount, i made |__| brackets that goes around the chassis just in front of the bump stop mounts. i think it was made from 75mm wide, 3mm thick flat steel. i also made a bracket to suit the factory bull bar holes at the end of the chassis rails.
what's this "32NB"? how does that equate to the OD and wall thickness?
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part of the newy conspiracy...
stumped wrote:what's this "32NB"? how does that equate to the OD and wall thickness?
i think 32 nominal bore is 42.4mm OD.
3.2 is medium gauge thickness but i would also consider slightly thinner to save weight on the front end. but it's just a personal thing. i do not have a need to protect from kangaroo strikes, and rarely hit the front offroad. i just feel it's better to keep the load off the front if possible.
stumped wrote:what's this "32NB"? how does that equate to the OD and wall thickness?
i think 32 nominal bore is 42.4mm OD.
3.2 is medium gauge thickness but i would also consider slightly thinner to save weight on the front end. but it's just a personal thing. i do not have a need to protect from kangaroo strikes, and rarely hit the front offroad. i just feel it's better to keep the load off the front if possible.
This is around the size we used for speedway rollcages (used black steam pipe). I barrel rolled my car 7 times and the cage stayed in shape and in intack, the car itself was kanckered.
I got an old video around somewhere but that is about it. Was fun but I moved to the NT for awhile and could not afford it up there (finding sponsors is a pain). It is a strange feeling having your eyes shut through a bit of bashing around, all goes quite so you open them just to find out the reason it is quite is becaue you are mid air upside down.
N*A*M wrote:that's probably too much it would be heavy as
thats the size I used !!!!, takes 3 people to lift it on or off of the rig and thats minus winch and driving lights !!, also need a sledge hammer to reinstall it and to get the bolt holes to line up !.......
but fug its STRONG !!!
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
well i'm lookin for something pretty light, don't wanna weigh down the front of the zook. doesn't need to take a winch, just strong enuf to hold up some lights, take gentle hits, and allow me to sit on it and watch my mates 60 series trying to get out of one hole or another...
should i go lighter than 32NB?
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part of the newy conspiracy...
25nb(nominal bore) is 33.7mm o.d., as far as nb meaning it is the medium wall you are wrong nam. with any nb you can get: extra light, light, medium, heavy and extra heavy. and this is not to include seamless/steam pipe.
high n mighty wrote:25nb(nominal bore) is 33.7mm o.d., as far as nb meaning it is the medium wall you are wrong nam. with any nb you can get: extra light, light, medium, heavy and extra heavy. and this is not to include seamless/steam pipe.
i never mentioned the relationship between nominal bore and gauge
but yes, 25NB is what i meant to say
Sorry mate, I've seen that advice given before on this forum. At least it gave me a chance to post the website though. It's all the information you need to be a Metaland counter jockey
[quote="fool_injected"]
I pity my brother when she is a teenager[/quote]
have you got a rough price of what its goin to cost?
bends + materials?
id say IF you can get all the bends an everything right the FIRST time
(its harder then it looks ) it will still cost bout as much as the light duty Overkill bar!
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redzook wrote:have you got a rough price of what its goin to cost?
bends + materials?
id say IF you can get all the bends an everything right the FIRST time (its harder then it looks ) it will still cost bout as much as the light duty Overkill bar!
it's all 'bout ideas at the moment. it's looking around $300 to get materials and bends, a mate can do the welds for free. the overkill bar is a nice piece of work, but i'm like the look of zol's one ... it's got good protection for the top lights, and i can fit more down lower.
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part of the newy conspiracy...
so going off that onesteel thing (heaps useful, thanks!), i could go 25NB or 32NB with a wall thickness of 2mm? would that be strong enuf, or should i go thicker? 2.6 or even 3.2??
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part of the newy conspiracy...
Dont go under 3.2 or its just a waist of time and money to build the bar ........ cause it will bend like a maccas straw on th first contact with anything ..................
A1
Mine moves slightly on the ends but thats more so a design fault as i told ya my front tube shite is extra heavy 4.0 - mm or so
When working out how much pipe you need, is there a rough rule of thumb based on the NB that you can use to work out how much length is in each bend, or is it as simple as the old 2 x pi x radius of bend x degrees of bend / 360 . . . . if that makes any sense at all
I'm not very good looking, so I guess I better be useful . . .
). got quoted $15/bend, seems to be a decent price...
thats the size I used !!!!, takes 3 people to lift it on or off of the rig and thats minus winch and driving lights !!, also need a sledge hammer to reinstall it and to get the bolt holes to line up !.......
) it will still cost bout as much as the light duty Overkill bar!
