Feroza doing a VERY strange thing!

[Sandy]

Hi,

I am having a problem with my Feroza that I can't figure out. The idle is dropping to below 300 rpm (almost stalling sometimes) whenever there is an electrical load.
eg. when I stop at lights/intersection it almost stalls when the brakes are applied. At first I thought it was related to the brakes but then I discovered that the idle drops whenever I switch on anything electrical. Such as brake lights, blinker, electric window....

Any ideas?

Sandy

[cookiesa]

Possibly an earthing issue? Have you taken off and cleaned the main earths. (There is likely to be one between the battery and the body then also the body to the engine)

[Sandy]

Yeah i've already done that. I have no idea what else it could be

[cookiesa]

What is the charge rate from your alternator? Perhaps on it's last legs and is struggling to provide any additional power other than running the basics?

[Sandy]

I'm using a V6 Camry alternator so it has more of an output than the standard Feroza one and it was put in not too long ago but I will check it today anyway to be sure.

I notice your from SA. Have you been to the Flinders Rangers? I'm going there after Christmas (my first time in SA).

Sandy

[MightyMouse]

YOu've checked the obvious ? fuses earths etc - some very odd problems can be traced back to such simple things.....

Then, Put a voltmeter on it ( a multimeter will do ) and tell us whats happening when running / braking etc.

Ideally the battery first, then the ecu supply then the ignition supply

This will show if its a battery/charging issue vs something else.

Luck....

[cookiesa]

Thats right, you'll love the flinders great spot, just watch the tyre pressures (not too high) and you'll have a ball!

[MightyMouse]

Interesting contribution......

[chugga]

Thats right, you'll love the flinders great spot, just watch the tyre pressures (not too high) and you'll have a ball!

Lol i might check that

[DanielC]

I had the same symptoms with my feroza a month ago.
It turned out my battery was on it's last legs.

It did originally seem like an earthing thing because as you said it only happens when you turn something on.


Off Topic (kind of)
What year model camry did you take the altenator from?
Was it an easy swap? How much more current are we talking between that and the original?

[Sandy]

Ok I've finally had a chance to try all those things. It was a bit out my league (i'm learning how to fix things as they happen on this car but still need help) so I went to a friends workshop.
Tried everything suggested and its not the problem.
MM - there was no voltage drop.

Any other ideas? I'm running out of time to fix it before my trip.

Sandy

[chugga]

Have you got air con? If the aircon regulator is stuffed (its behind the glove box) it will cause a lower idle speed to the point it stalls.

[Sandy]

I do have a/c but would that still happen when its off?
When the air is on the idle goes up and it isn't as bad as when its off.

Sandy

[Sandy]

Oh I just saw your name and realised who you are. Are you "chugga" with the white Feroza?

[murcod]

There are two idle control solenoids on Ferozas. One is switched on for electrical loads to increase the idle speed and the other for the A/C.

There is also a device (I believe it's called the "dash pot"?) on the throttle body which is designed to slow the closing of the throttle butterfly when you suddenly lift off the accelerator. It's adjustable.

Check your ignition timing and that the vacuum advance is hooked up correctly (vacuum and sub vacuum advance) and working.

I'm not saying any of the above are necessarily the cause, but they'd all be worth checking if you've run out of ideas.

[chugga]

Oh I just saw your name and realised who you are. Are you "chugga" with the white Feroza?

Hi. Yes its me. How you doing?
Is it doing the low idle when the air con is in or all the time? And did you try to adjust the idle screw on the throttle body?

[Sandy]

Hi i'm good. How do the steps look?

No it does it when the a/c is off too. I don't need to adjust the idle because the idle is perfect - right on 800rpm.
But even if it wasn't, it still shouldn't be dropping so much whenever I use something electical

These things always seem to happen just before a trip. Maybe he doesn't want to go...

[chugga]

Looks great with the steps .
As Murcod said there is a dashpot plunjer that you can adjust and that will stop it from dropping under 300 hopefully.

[Sandy]

I missed Murcod's reply, thats what happens when you scroll down too fast

I have already adjusted the idle control solenoid for the electrical loads. It increased the idle a bit and now it's not too bad most of the time, but sometimes the idle will still drop but only to as low as 600rpm. I have left it like this for now because its much better than before but I don't think its fixed because the idle still drops with an electrical load (it never did this before).

The "dash pot" has already been replaced and adjusted.
And ignition timing and vacuum advance is fine.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Percy]

Have you checked for vaccumn line leaks? THis may mess with your idle.

[chugga]

How did you adjust the idle solenoid?

[TeddyTurmoil]

Any update on this problem cheers

[Sandy]

I changed the throttle body and all seems good now. The only problem I still have is the idle dropping when I stop for the first couple of stops each time I leave home. It appears to be my charging system drawing too much power when in boost mode?

[TeddyTurmoil]

I changed the throttle body and all seems good now. The only problem I still have is the idle dropping when I stop for the first couple of stops each time I leave home. It appears to be my charging system drawing too much power when in boost mode?

Ah right.... have the same problem when I stop idle drops right down as though its going to stall then goes back up again. At night you can notice it more cos the headlights and dash lights dim quickly then come up again. Im going to check alternator for 3 pin or 2 pin conection (dont know which one i have) 3rd pin is for inteligent charging, alters charge voltage when it is needed I think.

maybe look for toyota Gt4 alt upgrade but not sure which one it is as there is the GT4 185 and GT4 205 looking at pics on internet think mine is closest to a GT4 185 one.

Cheers Teddy

[Sandy]

Hi,

I have the Redarc ultimate charging system so its a little different, and I have a Camry V6 alternator. I needed this system to charge the accessory battery more efficiently as my Waeco draws A LOT of current.

Although I'm not so sure thats the problem now. Everything has been fine for a few weeks since changing the throttle body then all of a sudden the problem came back last night out of nowhere! Its now stalling or almost stalling at some stops (occasionally it even stalls while i'm moving if I have the clutch in too long), and idle has changed and now usually sits on 500rpm!

I have tried almost everything, its just really strange as the problem was fixed for a while

How are you going with yours?

Sandy

[jonnyjoejoejr]

Hi, a bit off topic, sorry to hijack, but i have a similar problem, when mine idles it fluctuates between 500rpm and 1500rpm.. does anyone have any ideas? cheers

[Sandy]

Hi JJJJ,

Mine was doing the same thing, fluctuating between 500 and 1500, and it went away after changing the TPS.

Goodluck!

Sandy

[jonnyjoejoejr]

You mean throttle positioner system? thanks!!

[tehekho]

Hi JJJJ,

Mine was doing the same thing, fluctuating between 500 and 1500, and it went away after changing the TPS.

Goodluck!

Sandy

Did you try adjusting the TPS you had first?

99% of the time, the just fall out of adjustment, not break.

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor.

[MightyMouse]

99% of the time the absolutely pathetic idle contact arm looses its tension and no longer makes contact.
Trying to actually rebend it to get it to work is a nightmare ( and doesn't last anyway.... ) get it wrong and it bunny hops etc etc......

Replace it or or put a Bosch TPS on it as i described in an article on WARFS - absolute PERMANENT fix.