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Disco steering death shakes
Moderator: Micka
Posts: 1400
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Location: Mackay - Outerlimits; more extreme than your mum!
Disco steering death shakes
They old disco runs very sweet and at times am loving the return to the dark side!
At speeds >80, if I hit a pothole etc I get front end death shakes.
I'm pretty confident it's not balance = it is smooth all the time otherwise
The front shocks seam good too
The front wheel bearings already replaced
The tyre bloke suggested an increased aftermarket steering dampner.
He reckons he's had a few Disco/Rangies with similar - any thoughts????
At speeds >80, if I hit a pothole etc I get front end death shakes.
I'm pretty confident it's not balance = it is smooth all the time otherwise
The front shocks seam good too
The front wheel bearings already replaced
The tyre bloke suggested an increased aftermarket steering dampner.
He reckons he's had a few Disco/Rangies with similar - any thoughts????
moorey wrote:All that aside, I am yet to be convinced that RUFF is anything other than a maniacal arse hat.
Re: Disco steering death shakes
Front end wobbles are always hard to pinpoint to one thing ... in fact they are usually a combination of things but mostly related to worn parts. Sounds like a combination of worn king pin bearings (check to see they are not RS, and are correctly tensioned .... remove any spacer/shims if needed) worn rubbers (radius arm and panhard rod) and maybe a worn steering damper.phippsey wrote:They old disco runs very sweet and at times am loving the return to the dark side!
At speeds >80, if I hit a pothole etc I get front end death shakes.
I'm pretty confident it's not balance = it is smooth all the time otherwise
The front shocks seam good too
The front wheel bearings already replaced
The tyre bloke suggested an increased aftermarket steering dampner.
He reckons he's had a few Disco/Rangies with similar - any thoughts????
Cheers
Simo
TD 80 Series, F&R Lockers, Winch etc
well i just went through this same problem, have 35 simex that are not balanced and was getting bad shakes. replaced steering damper got a little better, replaces drag link and track rod and tie rod ends, got a little better, then took out the pahnard rod and replaced with polyurethane bushed, problem gone. tyres still not balanced. anyways go to pedders they have the poly bushes the standard ones will need to be pressed out but the pedders ones will drop right in.
ohhhh......NASTY......Micka wrote:x whateverfarkingnumberthatisbiggerthanwhateverfarkingyoucanthinkof6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
1986 - Stage 1 V8 serIII style side ute - gone
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
Posts: 1400
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
Location: Mackay - Outerlimits; more extreme than your mum!
But only if you do not do any dusty work eg Simpson.
I did a set in 5kk . They had about 1MM gap between the centre sleeve and the bush.
IMHO if you do not have big tyres, metalistic bushes are better in the Panhard rod.
If your panhard rod bushes look OK then it will be the swivel bearings in each hub. On an old car it is a waste of time to just up the preload by removing shims as the bearings "brinnel" ie look like a corrugated road, with the low bits at straight ahead. new bearings required.
BTW there are two types of shimmy, parallel when the wheels stay in the same relationship, and wobble where they move in different directions. Parallel is Panhard. Wobble is tie rod ends, or swivels.
They feel different.
Regards Philip A
I did a set in 5kk . They had about 1MM gap between the centre sleeve and the bush.
IMHO if you do not have big tyres, metalistic bushes are better in the Panhard rod.
If your panhard rod bushes look OK then it will be the swivel bearings in each hub. On an old car it is a waste of time to just up the preload by removing shims as the bearings "brinnel" ie look like a corrugated road, with the low bits at straight ahead. new bearings required.
BTW there are two types of shimmy, parallel when the wheels stay in the same relationship, and wobble where they move in different directions. Parallel is Panhard. Wobble is tie rod ends, or swivels.
They feel different.
Regards Philip A
I've got the same issues with mine , I was just doing some research on swivel pins . I'm guessing you just do the top one ...Right ?. I found this which was helpfull.
http://www.landroverclub.net//Club/HTML ... e_cure.htm
And this one
http://www.Grimace.hiof.no/~frodehaa/swivelpinpreload.htm
I hope that helps .
I'm giving mine a go this weekend.
Braudy
http://www.landroverclub.net//Club/HTML ... e_cure.htm
And this one
http://www.Grimace.hiof.no/~frodehaa/swivelpinpreload.htm
I hope that helps .
I'm giving mine a go this weekend.
Braudy
V8 beats gravity
If you cant buy it , Make it !
Bob tail Rangey
If you cant buy it , Make it !
Bob tail Rangey
Sorry mate but Wrong. You do both top and bottom if you do any of them. When I've done them in the past it's usually the bottom one that is the most farked ... often pitted and rusted on the older girls.Braudy wrote:I've got the same issues with mine , I was just doing some research on swivel pins . I'm guessing you just do the top one ...Right ?.
Braudy
Always do both and while you are there, make sure you replace all the seals etc. Read the manual, learn about the preload and do them right .. or pay someone else who can do them right for you is my advice.
Cheers
Simo
TD 80 Series, F&R Lockers, Winch etc
I must be the 1 out of 10 cause when i had this problem with an 80 series it was the radius arm bushes.6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
I'd put ALL bushes at the top of the list followed by tierod/drag link ends, then bearings.
The bushes should be replaced always. they can look fine but they can still be knackered.
Thanks for that, after researching a a little more it was obvious I needed to do both.Sorry mate but Wrong. You do both top and bottom if you do any of them. When I've done them in the past it's usually the bottom one that is the most farked ... often pitted and rusted on the older girls.
Always do both and while you are there, make sure you replace all the seals etc. Read the manual, learn about the preload and do them right .. or pay someone else who can do them right for you is my advice.
Cheers
Simo
Cheers
V8 beats gravity
If you cant buy it , Make it !
Bob tail Rangey
If you cant buy it , Make it !
Bob tail Rangey
thats 9 out of 10 in a ROVERoldmate wrote:I must be the 1 out of 10 cause when i had this problem with an 80 series it was the radius arm bushes.6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
I'd put ALL bushes at the top of the list followed by tierod/drag link ends, then bearings.
The bushes should be replaced always. they can look fine but they can still be knackered.
Damien
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Poly's are good for the panhard rod but i wont use them anywhere else either.nottie wrote:I wouldnt use pollys at all. Stick with the rubber in my view. But yep most likely pan hard bushs. Have someone move the steer wheel side to side and watch the panhard as the front moves. You will see it plain as day.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
Yeah so i've heard, wont be going back anytime soon after having to oxy the last set out6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
i'm never going backLoanrangie wrote:Yeah so i've heard, wont be going back anytime soon after having to oxy the last set out6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Damien
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Huh, you won't use super pro poly's cause you have to oxy them out?nottie wrote:Exactly my reason not to use themLoanrangie wrote:Yeah so i've heard, wont be going back anytime soon after having to oxy the last set out6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Damien
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