Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Kill Switch Wiring - I already tried search
Moderator: -Scott-
Kill Switch Wiring - I already tried search
Heya,
Looking at putting in two kill switches for my Gq Diesel for comps
Both switches need to be mounted in the cab
One needs to isolate the winch - am i better off isolating the neutral?
The other needs to isolate all of the vehical electrics - i am strugling to see how i can do this - if i isolate the neutral wont it still find a return path through the engine earth?
or do i basically run a cable fom the positive on the battery to the switch and then run everythign from the load side of this switch? - could get messy - not to mention it has to be in the cab.
Any help would be good.
Cheers,
Welchy
Looking at putting in two kill switches for my Gq Diesel for comps
Both switches need to be mounted in the cab
One needs to isolate the winch - am i better off isolating the neutral?
The other needs to isolate all of the vehical electrics - i am strugling to see how i can do this - if i isolate the neutral wont it still find a return path through the engine earth?
or do i basically run a cable fom the positive on the battery to the switch and then run everythign from the load side of this switch? - could get messy - not to mention it has to be in the cab.
Any help would be good.
Cheers,
Welchy
97 TD42 Y60 Coil Cab. 2" Body lift. 4" Spring 35" Maxis Creepies, 33" Claws, F and R lockers,Tube winch Bar, Custom Tray, Hi Mount with 6HP Motor, Sill cut, MTQ turbo
Gladstone4wdclub.com.au
Gladstone4wdclub.com.au
If this is to comply with comp requirements I would check what others are already using. Vague memory from similar threads is that mechanical set-ups were used ie cable operated cut-off right at the battery, no electric switches or anything. I could be completely misremembering though.
This is not legal advice.
you can put one of those key barrel type ign cut offs inline on the earth side of the battry no probs. Then as said i spose run a cable pull set up to it.
As for winch i guess it all depends how you want to kill it, either the motor itself or the solonoids. Perhaps run the setup above again using the main winch earth lead??
As for winch i guess it all depends how you want to kill it, either the motor itself or the solonoids. Perhaps run the setup above again using the main winch earth lead??
solenoid
Jason,
I thought when it said mechanicly disconect that it would have to be a switch in the cab taking full load. Wouyldnt a solenoid be electricly disconecting? Or am i looking at it to closely ( just shut up and do it?)
Cheers,
Welchy
I thought when it said mechanicly disconect that it would have to be a switch in the cab taking full load. Wouyldnt a solenoid be electricly disconecting? Or am i looking at it to closely ( just shut up and do it?)
Cheers,
Welchy
97 TD42 Y60 Coil Cab. 2" Body lift. 4" Spring 35" Maxis Creepies, 33" Claws, F and R lockers,Tube winch Bar, Custom Tray, Hi Mount with 6HP Motor, Sill cut, MTQ turbo
Gladstone4wdclub.com.au
Gladstone4wdclub.com.au
How about this.
Run a 4 pole duel contact kill switch. Hella make one and theres a couple of other brands.
Use the first contact to isolate the battery earth as required by the rule book and the second contact to knock out the power supply from the alt.
If you just take out the battery the alt will still feed the cars electrics, you need to take out the alt supply as well and the most cost effective single action option i believe is this way.
As for the winch.... Why? no one requires this and if you put the car on its lid or side and need to recover it during a stage you will need your winch even if you dont want car electrics for what ever reason.
cheers smitty
Run a 4 pole duel contact kill switch. Hella make one and theres a couple of other brands.
Use the first contact to isolate the battery earth as required by the rule book and the second contact to knock out the power supply from the alt.
If you just take out the battery the alt will still feed the cars electrics, you need to take out the alt supply as well and the most cost effective single action option i believe is this way.
As for the winch.... Why? no one requires this and if you put the car on its lid or side and need to recover it during a stage you will need your winch even if you dont want car electrics for what ever reason.
cheers smitty
innovation is better, better is faster, and fast is all that counts
hammey wrote: As for the winch.... Why? no one requires this and if you put the car on its lid or side and need to recover it during a stage you will need your winch even if you dont want car electrics for what ever reason.
cheers smitty
As you say I'm pretty sure most comps dont require the winch to be isolated but its a good idea to do it for justin, but switched seperatly from the rest of the electrics. Easy for winch solenoids to stick on or the motor windings to short them selves out internaly.
Its not a bundy!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests