HZJ105 big tyre fitment

[troopa]

Just wondering if anyone can help me with picking a tyre size to go on our newly purchased(99mdl) 1HZ powered 100series. Main concern is how much power loss with fitting a set of 35"s? Obviously we are going to lift it to suit whatever tyre goes on it. Is there any cost effective hot ups for the 1HZ without going down the turbo or gas route? We have gone from a 88 2H troopy to the 100 so huge power is not high on our list but dont want to suck the ass out of the poor old 1HZ. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

[T_Diesel]

The 1HZ is mechanically injected, hence you can't get power up chips or anything else really other than else than turbo/intercooler and exhaust as a power up mod. In their natural form, the 1HZ is rather athesmatic.

What's your reason for not wanting to turbo it?

[troopa]

Just the cost really, Plus its done near on 300k.

[FKT08]

Simple answer is don't run 35"s. Running 33" muds will already suck enough power out of a N/A 1HZ unless you turbo.

[troopa]

cheers4 the reply, but is this from experience?

[FKT08]

It is from my experience. Bought my 105 standard and added winch and steel bar and it was already slow on road with splits. Then added 285's A/T's and 2" lift which slowed it considerably. Tried 35's on at the time and found that they hit the front mudguards and limited flex so stuck with 285's.
Added a safari turbo 6 months later and it was a whole new car with no acceleration problems.
I also realized that if running 35"s a gear ratio change would also be better but not completely needed.

[T_Diesel]

cheers4 the reply, but is this from experience?

Yep. I have a 1HZ 105 running 285s which is turboed, intercooled and has 3" mandrel exhaust. As a nautural engine they are athsmatic at the best running standard sized tyres, let alone 33s or 35s.

I'm all for bling but at the end of the day, you seriously need to ask yourself why you want to run 35" tyres. Is it because they look cool or is it because when you have been wheeling that you have thought to yourself, damn if I had those 35" tyres I would have got through that obstacle?

To properly fit 35s also means massive mods to suspension, including extended brake lines, castor correction, adjustable panhards and the list goes on. To run 33s all you need is a 50mm lift and perhaps a castor correction depending on the vehicle set up.

Do you need 35s or do you want 35s? IMHO I wouldn't be running 35s before seeking power upgrades, and lets be honest for the price of a decent set of five 35" tyres you could pretty much turbo your cruiser.

[98lux]

I will be changing back to 285's as sonn as my 315's wear out (it could take a while though) Starting of on a slight incline you need to ride the clutch to get going, uses about 3lt per 100 ks more fuel and the brakes are working harder to pull me up in a hurry.

[T_Diesel]

I will be changing back to 285's as sonn as my 315's wear out (it could take a while though) Starting of on a slight incline you need to ride the clutch to get going, uses about 3lt per 100 ks more fuel and the brakes are working harder to pull me up in a hurry.

What suspension mods did you make to fit the 315s under?

[98lux]

3" spring lift, removed the front mud flaps and heated up the plastic inner gaurd and remoulded it back closer to the body.

[CRUIZED]

my 105 runs turbo/intercooler and 33's on road and has enough power . For off road I run a 35" simex c2 with a 3" lift and it all works great,very minor scrubing on the front inner gaurds........ until Assassin Offroad worked his magic on them, now plenty of clearence.Gearing will be change in the diffs shortly to bring it back to normal ratios when the lockers are fitted! A change of diff ratio will certainly help it run better with 33's or 35's
by the way previously I ran the 35" simex with a 2" lift with out any drama except for the minor scrubing at the front inners this can be overcome by manipulating the front inner gaurd and mud flap!

pm me with any questions

[CRUIZED]

I will be changing back to 285's as sonn as my 315's wear out (it could take a while though) Starting of on a slight incline you need to ride the clutch to get going, uses about 3lt per 100 ks more fuel and the brakes are working harder to pull me up in a hurry.

I had the same drama with my 105 pulling up ........ Just had new braided brake lines fitted and boy does it make a difference . Rubber brake line tend to expand and absorb fluid/brake pressure instead of directing it the calipers especially when the are more than 5+ years old

With the 35s on it now pulls up like its got a set factoty road tyres on !

[rampagingturtle]

my 105 runs turbo/intercooler and 33's on road and has enough power . For off road I run a 35" simex c2 with a 3" lift and it all works great,very minor scrubing on the front inner gaurds........ until Assassin Offroad worked his magic on them, now plenty of clearence.Gearing will be change in the diffs shortly to bring it back to normal ratios when the lockers are fitted! A change of diff ratio will certainly help it run better with 33's or 35's
by the way previously I ran the 35" simex with a 2" lift with out any drama except for the minor scrubing at the front inners this can be overcome by manipulating the front inner gaurd and mud flap!

pm me with any questions

sorry about the hijack
what ratios are you changing to
i have a 105 and the 315/75 tyres have really knocked the edge off what was a great car to drive on road .

[troopa]

Thanks to all you blokes for the replies, i think i will go with the 33 idea. It is more a case of wanting 35"s than needing them. After having a leaf sprung cruiser for so long i am pumped to be starting on a coil rig and was probably jumping the gun a bit. Quick question, are 16" metric measured tyres limited to 285x75? Or can you get say a 295 or 305 with a lower profile to still acheive the 33" O.D? E.G 33x12.5x15 is equivelant to a 285x75x16 but i dont think the 16" tyre will be 12.5" wide. More like 11.5? Tell me to give up if i dont make sense. He He.

[T_Diesel]

Thanks to all you blokes for the replies, i think i will go with the 33 idea. It is more a case of wanting 35"s than needing them. After having a leaf sprung cruiser for so long i am pumped to be starting on a coil rig and was probably jumping the gun a bit. Quick question, are 16" metric measured tyres limited to 285x75? Or can you get say a 295 or 305 with a lower profile to still acheive the 33" O.D? E.G 33x12.5x15 is equivelant to a 285x75x16 but i dont think the 16" tyre will be 12.5" wide. More like 11.5? Tell me to give up if i dont make sense. He He.

In a 16" rim you have a few options.

285/75/16 is as close as you will get to a 33x10.5x15 in dimensions

305/70/16 is as close as you will get to a 33x12.5x15 in dimensions.

I'm sure I will be corrected if I am wrong, however my understanding of metric sizing is that your first number 285 or 305 is the tread width in millimetres, the second number is the profiling which is a percentage of the tread width. Ie in a 305/70 the sidewall is 70% of the width, and the 16 is clearly the size of the rim.

[troopa]

so will a 305x70 still go on a 105 with a 2inch lift? or are they too wide?

[T_Diesel]

so will a 305x70 still go on a 105 with a 2inch lift? or are they too wide?

They should do no problems.

[mike_nofx]

so will a 305x70 still go on a 105 with a 2inch lift? or are they too wide?

It will prob be hard to find tyres in that size. 285/75 is more common.

If you are asking if they are too wide for rubbing issues, Mine had 285/75's with long travel shocks (but only 2" lift) and sway bars removed and it rubbed in the rear on full flex.

It now has 315/75's on 20mm offset rims and 2" bumpstop spacers (rear only) with no rubbing. front flaps needed removing, and some very minor plastic trimming.

305/70's or 285/75's shouldnt rub if you dont have shocks that are too long, and keep sway bars in.