Ok got a 92 single cab hilux and have found rust in the chassis just in front of the fixed pin on the rear springs on drivers side. my question is can it be repaired safely enough or legally? i havent started cutting yet but from what i can feel rust is approx 150mm long across the bottom and about 50mm up the side of the rails. any advice will be appreciated..
cheers mick
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Rust in chassis!!
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
checik the rest of the chassis through out to make sure its worth the time to fix it. Looks easy enough and vehicle standards cover chassis welding so it will be leagal. Also wheel base length alterations are covered too, which involves cutting the chassis right in half. So it can be repaired leagally.
Had the same thing in a 60 series a long time ago, it was right beside the rear spring hanger,
had an engineering joint in maroochydore plate it on three sides for a fair length either side of it, only cost I think $400 odd about 9 years ago.
I treated it with rust convertor and put an electric thingo on it to stop the rust any further. was good for a few more years untill we sold it.
I wouldnt go outback with it but I would probably still drive it till it got fixed, (based on the fact that had you not looked you would still be driving it)
I would fix it SOON.
had an engineering joint in maroochydore plate it on three sides for a fair length either side of it, only cost I think $400 odd about 9 years ago.
I treated it with rust convertor and put an electric thingo on it to stop the rust any further. was good for a few more years untill we sold it.
I wouldnt go outback with it but I would probably still drive it till it got fixed, (based on the fact that had you not looked you would still be driving it)
I would fix it SOON.
pretty much impossible to get it out
That would probably do the same thing but I think it would be impracticle as you would use heaps of it.
I think the idea is to pour it down the chassis rail then drive around lettting get into every little nook etc, then it dries out leaving the protection of the oil, (or whatever is left of what you use)
Good thought though
I think the idea is to pour it down the chassis rail then drive around lettting get into every little nook etc, then it dries out leaving the protection of the oil, (or whatever is left of what you use)
Good thought though
ok quick update i have cut out most of rust with the exception of about 15mmx 200mm on the inside of the rail,(only had one cut off wheel)and have looked with a torch further down the chassis rail where i have cut, and it looks mickey mouse, so fingers crossed the other side is ok. my next step will be to weld in some new steel then overlap/fishplate the inside for added strength. then block all drain holes and fill the chassis with deisel...
Looks like you might have got lucky and cut it all out,
My 60 series had it localised in just one chassis rail in one spot,
Have a good ol poke around (I mean a good bash) with a big screwdrive along the chassis to see if you have any more spots.
Let us know how the diesel trick works for you, I know a few guys who'
swear by it. Obviously better to do it from new, but its better late than never.
My 60 series had it localised in just one chassis rail in one spot,
Have a good ol poke around (I mean a good bash) with a big screwdrive along the chassis to see if you have any more spots.
Let us know how the diesel trick works for you, I know a few guys who'
swear by it. Obviously better to do it from new, but its better late than never.
please do this right 
..... pick off the rear spring hanger and the tray mounts.... you can see in the first photo that it is cracked behind where you have cut it, in the spring mount and tray. Clean it all back with wire wheel/ flapper to see any further cracking not just rust, the replace chassis bits and fish plate(use the same thickness of chassis material or slightly thicker 3-4mm) on the OUTSIDE atleast 100mm past last welded joint/or crack that has been fixed.. dont do the dodge not worth it 
..... pick off the rear spring hanger and the tray mounts.... you can see in the first photo that it is cracked behind where you have cut it, in the spring mount and tray. Clean it all back with wire wheel/ flapper to see any further cracking not just rust, the replace chassis bits and fish plate(use the same thickness of chassis material or slightly thicker 3-4mm) on the OUTSIDE atleast 100mm past last welded joint/or crack that has been fixed.. dont do the dodge not worth it Eliteforce Heavy Fabrication
Proud supporter of these businesses:-
Pig Dog Shop(hunting)- Greg 0448024776
CrispProducts(Racetec Gauges)-Chris(pm him)
Fourbies at Moorooka- Ryano
Proud supporter of these businesses:-
Pig Dog Shop(hunting)- Greg 0448024776
CrispProducts(Racetec Gauges)-Chris(pm him)
Fourbies at Moorooka- Ryano
No... those chemicals evap away, only good for very short term lube.nastytroll wrote:Would you use CRC or WD40?chpd80 wrote:I have heard of people pouring diesel into the chassis rails to prevent
rust, the diesel fuel evaporates away and leaves an oily film to protect it.
I dont know if I would use diesel myself, but the principle sounds good.
Bazzle
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 36 guests