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Rear salisbury
Moderator: Micka
Rear salisbury
After throwing some ideas around with Micka I have decided I want to try a diff combo out that I think will be an awsome reasonably priced diff. So I am posting in here as no point putting it in the wanted section. Hope its OK with the forum Mods.
I am after a rear 4.7 series salisbury diff. Don't really care if it has no brakes or crap brakes or whatever as I am interested in the center section only with its tubes.
Oh and i don't really want to pay bugger all (as I might just hack it and dump the idea
Brisbane would be prefered or possibly pick up from tuff truck.
PM would be fine or post in here.
If i find one ill share with all what silly idea i have for the diff
Remember i need cheep
Oh and this is not a street friendly combo.
Cheers Guys.
I am after a rear 4.7 series salisbury diff. Don't really care if it has no brakes or crap brakes or whatever as I am interested in the center section only with its tubes.
Oh and i don't really want to pay bugger all (as I might just hack it and dump the idea
Brisbane would be prefered or possibly pick up from tuff truck.
PM would be fine or post in here.
If i find one ill share with all what silly idea i have for the diff
Remember i need cheep
Oh and this is not a street friendly combo.
Cheers Guys.
I have some ideas what you have in mind...
I have one spare 4.7 Sals - that I bought from bubs for $200 - however I was planning to build a front from that.
I have a couple of 3.5 sals spare though - the casings are the same - so if you want a housing to build everything - let me know.
I have one spare 4.7 Sals - that I bought from bubs for $200 - however I was planning to build a front from that.
I have a couple of 3.5 sals spare though - the casings are the same - so if you want a housing to build everything - let me know.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Ben sssshhhhhhhh
Yeah the 4.7 is where i want to be with this set up as to keep the gearing and not have to use gears in the case.
I can get 4.7 series diffs up at the landy wreckers at Gympie but they want $200 a pop and well ill have to drive to Gympie and thats not fun.
Yeah slunnie we are talking a front and rear here and will be running upside down which will make them a high pinion Hopefully.
Yeah the 4.7 is where i want to be with this set up as to keep the gearing and not have to use gears in the case.
I can get 4.7 series diffs up at the landy wreckers at Gympie but they want $200 a pop and well ill have to drive to Gympie and thats not fun.
Yeah slunnie we are talking a front and rear here and will be running upside down which will make them a high pinion Hopefully.
if your plaining on putting mogs on the end of it i rekon your wasting you time. it will be a heavy mofo and you dont really need that centre to be so big i'd use a cruiser or even hilux centre. I dont belive you would breake either of these with the reduction after them and worst case there easy to get hold of and swap out.
just my 2c
just my 2c
That's true, Dave. US guys do run D44 diffs with them without too many dramas and Hilux carp is eay to get when they break.
But a Salisbury wont break in that scenario. And there is every chance that the diff could end up lighter than a stock 404 given that they are twin tubed and heavy as fark already. I can lift a Salisbury axel from a Rover on my own, but there is no way in hell I can lift a Mog. And Salisbury's have been proven in rock buggies here and overseas.
Oh yeah...and 35 spline axels with Detroits are cool.
But a Salisbury wont break in that scenario. And there is every chance that the diff could end up lighter than a stock 404 given that they are twin tubed and heavy as fark already. I can lift a Salisbury axel from a Rover on my own, but there is no way in hell I can lift a Mog. And Salisbury's have been proven in rock buggies here and overseas.
Oh yeah...and 35 spline axels with Detroits are cool.
Dave Why bust in and spill the beans???
And why wouldnt we try to build the toughest diffs we can???
Going off what you say then i Guess Pete wasted his money time after time with using 9 inch centres with his portals???? He should have just gone with a damn yota centre then hay.
Last i checked you cant put a 35 spline into a yota diff.
They will be a shit load lighter then a full mog diff with the salsbury centre. And have high grade custom axels. We have even got a fix to strengthen the portel box as so we dont crack them. Yeah they will hang a little but hay we have portal boxes to give us under diff clearance.
Thanks anyway for your opinion though Dave. If we had yota centres with locks in them we would have thought about using them. But from a starting from scratch point of view we are going to go down this path.
When we are more under way on these babies if anyone wants to know prices on setting up a set of these then just send me a PM and ill keep you in the loop. We are very surprised so far as to how cheep these will be to set up with the prices we have obtained so far.
Cheers Nottie
And why wouldnt we try to build the toughest diffs we can???
Going off what you say then i Guess Pete wasted his money time after time with using 9 inch centres with his portals???? He should have just gone with a damn yota centre then hay.
Last i checked you cant put a 35 spline into a yota diff.
They will be a shit load lighter then a full mog diff with the salsbury centre. And have high grade custom axels. We have even got a fix to strengthen the portel box as so we dont crack them. Yeah they will hang a little but hay we have portal boxes to give us under diff clearance.
Thanks anyway for your opinion though Dave. If we had yota centres with locks in them we would have thought about using them. But from a starting from scratch point of view we are going to go down this path.
When we are more under way on these babies if anyone wants to know prices on setting up a set of these then just send me a PM and ill keep you in the loop. We are very surprised so far as to how cheep these will be to set up with the prices we have obtained so far.
Cheers Nottie
For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.
Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.
Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.
It has been mentioned that the 130s have strengthened housings (somehow???)Slunnie wrote:Is there any differences in the housing strengths between the leafer Salisburys, the 110 Salisbury and the 130's?
I do know the axle tubes on a sals are thinner than a D60 - which saves a fair bit of weight.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Did you guys approach Barry at Hi Tough Eng. at all?nottie wrote:For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.
Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.
No Serg.uninformed wrote:Did you guys approach Barry at Hi Tough Eng. at all?nottie wrote:For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.
Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.
My discussions with Keith have been nothing but positive and since dealing with him over the past 18 months or so on a regular basis, my opinion and respect for him and his products is sky high. I know Barry does excellent work, but RoverTracks will be getting my business.
Plus, there is more to the story that I will not go into, that solidifies my respect for Keith and RoverTracks.
No worries, I totally understand. It would be nice to see Barry do some custom work, but their isnt a big call for it here, along with people saying things like Hytuf cant be heat treated in oz etc makes it difficult.Micka wrote:No Serg.uninformed wrote:Did you guys approach Barry at Hi Tough Eng. at all?nottie wrote:For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.
Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.
My discussions with Keith have been nothing but positive and since dealing with him over the past 18 months or so on a regular basis, my opinion and respect for him and his products is sky high. I know Barry does excellent work, but RoverTracks will be getting my business.
Plus, there is more to the story that I will not go into, that solidifies my respect for Keith and RoverTracks.
good luck with the project, hope to see some pics down the track.
Serg we have in the past got products from Barry (and so have others that dont realize it ) His work is absolutely outstanding.
If Micka wasnt going to use Keith then i am shore he or we would have spokn to Barry to see what he was able to do for the project. As we have no doubt he would be able to do what we need. And at a level of quality thats hard to find.
Cheers jamie
If Micka wasnt going to use Keith then i am shore he or we would have spokn to Barry to see what he was able to do for the project. As we have no doubt he would be able to do what we need. And at a level of quality thats hard to find.
Cheers jamie
Series 3 are 5.6mm wall - I measured one today. I am sure 110s would be the same.Petes wrote:Apparently the 110 Salsburys have a 6mm wall tube, and the 130's have an 8mm wall tube. OD of both is 80mmSlunnie wrote:Is there any differences in the housing strengths between the leafer Salisburys, the 110 Salisbury and the 130's?
Rgds
Pete
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Wouldn't it be easier to just use standard tube and just run a brace between the tubes??? I have never known a sals to bend, but there have been a couple of tubes which have cracked, but only where they are plug welded to the cast centre (or very close to).nottie wrote:we will be re tubing the sals centre for strength
Running thicker tube won't necessarily help.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
we have to retube it to offset
the centre to the correct spot anyway and the material size is also so the mog flanged end will slid in (pressed tight) and be able to be welded.so all we are really using is the centre carrier and the crown and pinion.
Anyone after some cheep drums and axels for a salisbury.
( Ben have MR sent the case to you yet? )
the centre to the correct spot anyway and the material size is also so the mog flanged end will slid in (pressed tight) and be able to be welded.so all we are really using is the centre carrier and the crown and pinion.
Anyone after some cheep drums and axels for a salisbury.
( Ben have MR sent the case to you yet? )
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