help!!! rb30 carb to injection.

[mudbug]

Hi i just bought a GQ patrol with rb30 in it. tha guy i bought it off has started to convert it to injection but never finished it, all that is left to do is sort out the wiring an fuel system. can anyone help with what wires need to be hooked up to get it happening. i'v been told it only 5 wires but which ones an they go were ha ha. an also can anyone tell me how to set up fuel system pumps etc.. thanks

[bigcam]

grab an r31 skyline in tank pump, it will fit into the standard patrol bracket, then use the existing two lines as feed and return (larger one for feed). you will need to run a new power feed to it from a relay powered by the ecu.

on the ecu you have a fuel pump output on pin 108 (pin 8 on the 15 pin connector) this is normally a variable voltage output but just use it to switch the relay and power to the pump, the regulator can handle it. this should come on for 5 seconds at ignition on then stay off until the dizzy senses movement.

pin 114 has contant 12v
pin 115 has constant 12v (this might be switched cant remember sorry)

pin 27 and 35 on the the 16 pin connector gets 12v from the green efi relay
pin 34 on that connector gets 12v from the ignition switch.



pin 6 on the 20 pin connector is the negative activation line for the green efi relay. i cant remember having to wire this up but anyway.

you also have a VSS wire (only used to tell the ecu once you have done over 20 kmph for the AFM self cleaning program (i didnt use)

there is a 3 pin connector in the bonnet side of the loom that needs power for the injectors. (cant remember which colour but one gets 12v constant the other 12v switched with ignition the other is blank) just match the colours to the common colours on the injector plugs. this gets ignition power.

use a skyline loom not a vl loom.. much easier and neater. also there will be wiring for the auto you dont use.

check out this site for more info..

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/c ... 0and30.gif

[Ash_GQ]

there is a 3 pin connector in the bonnet side of the loom that needs power for the injectors. (cant remember which colour but one gets 12v constant the other 12v switched with ignition the other is blank) just match the colours to the common colours on the injector plugs. this gets ignition power.

im nearly finished converting my GQ to efi, but i cant find this plug, probably why she wont fire..

Any hints/pics on where this plug should be, im using a VL loom...

[striga22]

you have to make sure which wire loom you have the vl is different because it supports the fuel pump. with my fuel pump what i did was got the fuel pump in the tank and replaced it xr6 turbo pump intank. to wire it on the diver side kick panel next to the pedels there is a control module below the fuse's you'll see it it has a sticker on it. i can't remember witch wires there are to wire the ecu up but all you need is a power wire direct from the battery, ignition to turn on computer, to the fuel pump ect if you can find out what loom you have i can tell you witch color wires go where send me a pm if needed cheers good luck

[striga22]

there is a 3 pin connector in the bonnet side of the loom that needs power for the injectors. (cant remember which colour but one gets 12v constant the other 12v switched with ignition the other is blank) just match the colours to the common colours on the injector plugs. this gets ignition power.

im nearly finished converting my GQ to efi, but i cant find this plug, probably why she wont fire..

Any hints/pics on where this plug should be, im using a VL loom...

i think he is talking about in the engine bay it should be next to 2 earth cables but i dont remember seeing a 3 pin plug, pm me and i can take a look at mine for ya cheers

[aubinator]

there is a 3 pin connector in the bonnet side of the loom that needs power for the injectors. (cant remember which colour but one gets 12v constant the other 12v switched with ignition the other is blank) just match the colours to the common colours on the injector plugs. this gets ignition power.

im nearly finished converting my GQ to efi, but i cant find this plug, probably why she wont fire..

Any hints/pics on where this plug should be, im using a VL loom...

i think he is talking about in the engine bay it should be next to 2 earth cables but i dont remember seeing a 3 pin plug, pm me and i can take a look at mine for ya cheers

on my truck it i cut the plastic tape stuff of if that makes sense and moved it closer to the engine end off it mine sits on fire wall think it origanaly was hanging out around ether the exhaust sensor or airflow meter wires skyline harness is easyer single pump if you get stuck i can send pics of mine

[bigcam]

follow the common coloured wire on the injectors. it will terminate at this plug. (black with a brown?? from memory

[Ash_GQ]

Okay theres a 4 pin plug hanging out near the O2 sensor but there isnt any orange wires in it which is the common injector wire...

Im running a VL loom, i pulled everything out of a VL myself..

I checked all my wiring this morning, if i spray carby cleaner down the throttle body it will fire for a couple seconds but thats it..

Theres definately fuel pressure at the rail, and both the pumps are going..

Thanks for your help guys i have been messing around with this thing for days

[nicksamaniac]

so you have spark then?

is fuel getting into the rail?
the pressure line goes into the rail-then from the rail-to the reg, then back to tank.

if youv'e got the pressure side going to the reg first it wont work.

[striga22]

there is a 3 pin connector in the bonnet side of the loom that needs power for the injectors. (cant remember which colour but one gets 12v constant the other 12v switched with ignition the other is blank) just match the colours to the common colours on the injector plugs. this gets ignition power.

im nearly finished converting my GQ to efi, but i cant find this plug, probably why she wont fire..

Any hints/pics on where this plug should be, im using a VL loom...

i think he is talking about in the engine bay it should be next to 2 earth cables but i dont remember seeing a 3 pin plug, pm me and i can take a look at mine for ya cheers

on my truck it i cut the plastic tape stuff of if that makes sense and moved it closer to the engine end off it mine sits on fire wall think it origanaly was hanging out around ether the exhaust sensor or airflow meter wires skyline harness is easyer single pump if you get stuck i can send pics of mine

you dont need that plug i think that is for sevice i'm not sure what i was talking about in my previous post is on the same side as the intake

[striga22]

there is a 3 pin connector in the bonnet side of the loom that needs power for the injectors. (cant remember which colour but one gets 12v constant the other 12v switched with ignition the other is blank) just match the colours to the common colours on the injector plugs. this gets ignition power.

im nearly finished converting my GQ to efi, but i cant find this plug, probably why she wont fire..

Any hints/pics on where this plug should be, im using a VL loom...

i think he is talking about in the engine bay it should be next to 2 earth cables but i dont remember seeing a 3 pin plug, pm me and i can take a look at mine for ya cheers

on my truck it i cut the plastic tape stuff of if that makes sense and moved it closer to the engine end off it mine sits on fire wall think it origanaly was hanging out around ether the exhaust sensor or airflow meter wires skyline harness is easyer single pump if you get stuck i can send pics of mine

you dont need that plug i think that is for sevice i'm not sure what i was talking about in my previous post is on the same side as the intake

[Ash_GQ]

so you have spark then?

is fuel getting into the rail?
the pressure line goes into the rail-then from the rail-to the reg, then back to tank.

if youv'e got the pressure side going to the reg first it wont work.

not sure what you mean, ive set it up the same as it was in the VL, the fuel reg on the VL is right next the pump..

So its goes from the lift pump, into the main pump, then through the reg and off to the rail..

I can undo the pressure line off the rail and turn the pumps on and fuel pumps out..

Ive definately got spark, i can put a screw driver in one of the leads and crank it and it will jump the spark a good 10mm...

[striga22]

have you made sure there is fuel coming out of the injector? have you seen the ecu working before you removed it? i little bit of moister kills them!

[Ash_GQ]

Okay i just pulled an injector and they are working, doesnt really spray out tho just drips?

Im thinking it might be a fuel pressure issue somewhere, if i take the pressure line off and turn the pumps on it only pushes a stream about 2 inches if that makes sense, should be alot more than that shouldnt it?

ECU is good cause everything im using came out of a running car i pulled apart last week...

*Edit* well i just clamped off the return line and the fuel pump started ticking so i assume it was at full pressure, still doesnt fire...

[nicksamaniac]

so you have spark then?

is fuel getting into the rail?
the pressure line goes into the rail-then from the rail-to the reg, then back to tank.

if youv'e got the pressure side going to the reg first it wont work.

not sure what you mean, ive set it up the same as it was in the VL, the fuel reg on the VL is right next the pump..

So its goes from the lift pump, into the main pump, then through the reg and off to the rail..

I can undo the pressure line off the rail and turn the pumps on and fuel pumps out..

Ive definately got spark, i can put a screw driver in one of the leads and crank it and it will jump the spark a good 10mm...

the feed line should go to the rail first, the reg bleeds off from the rail to regulate the pressure back to tank, if you only use 1 vl pump, make sure its the high pressure one. it should be about 70psi full on, it will only make so much pressure before the pump runs out of flow internaly.
you will know because it will pump then sound as though its making pressure,
the vl uses 2 pumps, 1 high flow-low pres, the other is low flow-high pres.
hope this helps.

[striga22]

is it a turbo conversion you are doing? it might be worth getting a after market fuel reg if your running n/a gear for a turbo

[Ash_GQ]

na its not turbo, just swapped the tired carby motor out and putting a VL motor in for the convienience of fuel injection and i eventually want to turbo it a bit further down the track...

Im thinking i might just get a decent intank pump to simplify it all so i dont have to run 2 pumps..

Still not sure whats going on, maybe the injectors arent getting full power?

[Huggy]

What in tank pump are you using ? The vl one or the patrol one .
I left the patrol one in and it did the same thing as yours.I could only get it running off start you barstard .I changed the in tank one with the one off the vl and it fired straight away . I spent 2 day chasing the problem .

[Ash_GQ]

im running the VL intank pump and the VL external pump..

Its setup exactly the same as it was in the VL..

[Ash_GQ]

ok this is driving me nuts, ive definately got spark, and i pulled an injector and it squirts clean across the engine bay when u crank it..

Fuel and spark it should start shouldnt it?!

[bigcam]

if you have spark the CAS is sending s signal to the ecu which will fire the injectors and ignition moldule- coil.

check the injector plugs when the ignition is on, one pin should have battery voltage (or very very close to it) the other will have nothing (you ned to unplug all injectors at once.

if this checks out, plug a spar einjector in and feel ober the pintle with your finger as you turn the engine over, it shoudl be a very positive click and should feel the pintle pulsing.

if thats all ok, put a fuel pressure guage between the rail and the reg. it should be around 35-40 psi as the pump primes at ignition on. if its a lot less than this, clamp off the return line, if it comes up over 30 psi then the reg is stuffed, if it doesnt the pump is the issue.

also to simplfy things try and start it with the AFM unplugged, it will revert to the base map until you reach 2200rpm, if the afm is faulty it will start with it unplugged and idle.

also check the idle air control valve is connected. (back of the inlet manifold)

if you have replaced the distributor (i assume you have ) make sure that is is in phase, i.e. you have it pointing at number one when its on it's compression TDC not its exhaust TDC, you will need to look at the rocker arms to determine that both valves are closed when no.1 is on TDC then take the dizzy cap off to check it on number 1 and not number 6 as they come to TDC together but one ont he ex. stroke and one on the comp stroke.

also check the injector seals in the inlet manifold are sitting right, if they push in wrong they create a massive air leak that will stall the engine.

see how you go with that. i had an issue in mine where it would idle but break down under load, the constant 12v feed to the injectors was not off sufficient current rating and the injectors would not open properly when under load.. worth checking.

[striga22]

ok this is driving me nuts, ive definately got spark, and i pulled an injector and it squirts clean across the engine bay when u crank it..

Fuel and spark it should start shouldn't it?!

have you checked if the dizzy is at top dead center when it is at spark plug 1? it's not making sence it wont start. also have you checked there is still 12v going to the coil as the starter is cranking?

[Ash_GQ]

Ok update time, it starts!! its still not happy tho..

Wont start if i just crank it over, but a bit of start ya bastard and it fires up straight away..

Ive discovered my AFM is shot, broken wire inside, im hoping thats why it wont rev over 2000rpm..

Something else is going on too because it idles on 1400rpm, might have a vac leak or something im guessing..

Im still not convinced that the injectors are getting full power, still seems to be starving for fuel a bit but i will have to check this out more once i get hold of another AFM...

[nicksamaniac]

if your AFM is shot it will revert to a standard/safe fuel/spark map, thats why it wont rev over 2000rpm.
this is like a limp-mode, you can test parts for faults & also you can move the car if needed, (like out of traffic).
throw in another AFM and it should go good. the high idle is part of the safe mode from memory.

[MONGREL]

Just thiught i'd through this link in, helpfull for me maybe for others too.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42140