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3rz oxy sensor and alternator for 4y conversion

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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3rz oxy sensor and alternator for 4y conversion

Post by YN67highlux »

hey have searched but can only find info on deisel or 22r,
needn to know....
there is a 4 plug lead going from oxy sencer from loom to 3 plug to the exaust manifold, what goes where? tryed looking for full wiring diagram but only found the basics and dont have time to go to toyota dealer to get info please help,
also need to know about the alternator wires three from loom go to witch 3 on new alternator wires from harness plug.
any info would be appreciated......
also i see (ON SITE) alot of these convesions with people using a pod filter???. how much of the filter needs to be covered to be roadworthy?. have talked to the blueplater and he says that i should run it to my original filterbox but it seems like alot of extra work if i can get away with just covering the filter.
otherwise its a case of moving the batery over the other side... witch breaks my heart :cry: deadline aust day
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Post by Sic Lux »

move battery it's the best way to do it on could use a vn commodore airbox or factory 3rz one (vn filters are cheaper) for the weekend just put a pod on it and avoid water then worry about the plate after the weekend
plenty of parts on the bench
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Re: 3rz oxy sensor and alternator for 4y conversion

Post by dillza_69 »

YN67highlux wrote: also need to know about the alternator wires three from loom go to witch 3 on new alternator wires from harness plug.

These are the 3rz loom colours

Red wire: "ignition on" 12V power – 12V when the ignition s/w is activated, fused at 10A – don't give this constant power
Small white wire: 12V battery power, direct connection to battery + terminal, fused at 7.5-10A.
Yellow wire: ground signal for "charge warning lamp". This provides a ground signal for a lamp in case of alternator failure.
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Post by YN67highlux »

thanks heaps. alternator, few relays and air intake are the last thing to do. did end up moving battery to other side, has anyone got depth measurement of the 3r filterbox? wreckers say they didnt have any so would have to buy bottom half new, didnt want to waste money on something that may not fit, pics would be great of air box setups too
thanks heaps

also what have you guys done with your computer? i cant drill into my firewall because of aircon setup and heater ect ect. thinking about making a airtight box and putting under bonnet?
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Post by berad »

Mount it on trans tunnel behind the headunit, or in the glovebox, or inside the pass side kick panel, or under the seat.

No way would i mount a ecu in the engine bay, air/water tight or not, if it stops working..... so do you + heat affects electronics and wiring.

In standard form, they are mounted to a bracket behind the glovebox, just spaced off the a/c gear, pull the glove box out and you will see.
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Post by YN67highlux »

thanks mate. just trying to get around extending wires. 3rz filter box is out of the question as they are $780. sic lux can u give me more info please. mainly what did you do with the air flow meter from 3r air box setup? can it bolt into vn one?

just finished bleeding the cluth line i had made up but the clutch doesnt seem to be working? :x i have the original 4y master, the 3r slave fork and throwout... it all seems to be working fine, clutch pedal feeds good and the fork is moving craploads but when i put it in gear with clutch in it wont move. any ideas before i rip box out again.
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Post by dillza_69 »

YN67highlux wrote: just finished bleeding the clutch line i had made up but the clutch doesnt seem to be working? :x i have the original 4y master, the 3r slave fork and throwout... it all seems to be working fine, clutch pedal feeds good and the fork is moving craploads but when i put it in gear with clutch in it wont move. any ideas before i rip box out again.
What do you mean by "It wont move"? If you mean the car goes into gear but wont drive check that the tail shaft is bolted up lol. wouldn't be the first time.

Can you put it in gear without using the clutch? If not the clutch is probably working fine. If you can then the clutch isnt transferring the drive to the input shaft

If you mean it wont go into gear then yeah, sounds like clutch
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Post by YN67highlux »

sorry, car isnt running yet still waiting on wiring. just to check after i done the line i got the missus in car and to put it in gear and push clutch in. when i tryed to push car foward it wont move, its as if the clutch wasnt in. can put it in gear without useing clutch.
cheers
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Post by dillza_69 »

YN67highlux wrote:sorry, car isnt running yet still waiting on wiring. just to check after i done the line i got the missus in car and to put it in gear and push clutch in. when i tryed to push car foward it wont move, its as if the clutch wasnt in. can put it in gear without useing clutch.
cheers
Yeah going into gear without engine running is normal. Can you push the car with gearbox in neutral?
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Post by YN67highlux »

yep sure can.
things ive tryed
pushing car in nuetral ...moves fine
pumping clutch just in case a bit of air is still in there
bleeding 4 times
car is in first gear 2wd ( if it matters)
checked fork making sure its moving. its moving about 50mm

cheers mate
just wondering about the input shaft and master as these are the only this different, clutch stayed on engine when i bought it untouched i didnt bother changing it. the slave, throw out, and fork are the same, so its got to be 1 of these. the input shaft is too long or the master isnt pushing enough fluid to the slave to engage clutch fully? any other ideas?
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Post by dillza_69 »

seems strange, assuming you have a G52 then you have the same setup as me except i had a 22r and you a 4Y? How long was the motor sitting for? Maybe the friction plate has rusted onto the flywheel? The clutch pedel may feel ok but all it is doing is pulling the pressure plate away from the friction plate, possibly leaving the friction plate rusted to the flywheel. Pushing the car may not generate enough torque to free it.

When you get the motor running, put your foot hard on the brake and try start the car, the starter will have enough torque to free it if its just rusted.

I havent heard of others needing to change their master cylinders, i know i didnt.
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Post by YN67highlux »

sweet cheers man ill try these before burning it :)
still got one problem. the oxygen senson on exaust. assuming that its the plug next to the air flow meter that suposed to go to it , what goes where? how can i wire this up without the clips as the wires are different colours at either end? there is also 4 wires on loom and 3 on sensor. is it double earthed or something???
any help would be great
thanks again
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Post by dillza_69 »

unfortunately i cant help you with that as mine didn't have an OXY sensor. I will see if i can find a wiring diagram
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Post by YN67highlux »

well time to pull the box out. got some wiring done today. if i turn over with the motor out of gear its doin what it supposed to. clutch out and in gear winding it over it has drive to gearbox. clutch in and in gear its also supplying drive.... any one got any ideas of what ive done before i start or what to check?
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Post by dillza_69 »

YN67highlux wrote:well time to pull the box out. got some wiring done today. if i turn over with the motor out of gear its doin what it supposed to. clutch out and in gear winding it over it has drive to gearbox. clutch in and in gear its also supplying drive.... any one got any ideas of what ive done before i start or what to check?
Still working on the idea that the friction plate is rusted to the flywheel.... may seem stupid but were you pressing the clutch while turning the motor over? if not the pressure plate would be providing pressure and not allowing the friction plate to be freed. You need to put in gear, press clutch, press brake and turn motor over.


EDIT:> just read you post properly, noticed you were pressing the clutch. Try the brake as well
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Post by YN67highlux »

yea mate , clutch in, foot on brake, winding over. will pull it appart and see whats goin on in there tomorrow
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Post by dillza_69 »

no worries, keep us posted

one more thing to try before you pull the box. Pull the clutch fork in the direction that would normally operate the clutch. Is it hard up or close to the clutch diaphragm or is there are large air gap?
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Post by YN67highlux »

ok, so this is the slave as its sitting at the moment
i cant push it out by my hand at all. i can push it inn toward the car the whole 30mm or so
Image
this is a pic of it with the clutch pedal pushed inn all the way
Image

also i have cleared up a few things about oxy sensor thanks 89_lux..
i thought the plug that is on the same part of loom as the air flow meter went to the oxy sensor. because when i ordered my motor they sent the exaust of a newer model car and it had one on exaust. being that it was next to airflow meter i assumed thats where it went. so now i know mine doesnt ave one either, i just need to know the name of this sensor that plugs into this thing so i can get it ordered. (* the plug on top of airbox)
Image
thanks heaps for your help
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Post by YN67highlux »

ps
no i dont know why the slave is pink :?
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Post by Rory »

all factory 3r slaves are pink, real men rock em! that plug next to the afm is for some little device that u can put a tiny screw driver in and turn left and right. Mine ran without it for ages, and i didnt notice any differance when i found one. It was bolted to the drivers side inner gaurd from memory.
On it is says Denso 89456-30010
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Post by YN67highlux »

sweet cheers will look into getting 1 any way. did you have any clutch problems with yours?
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Post by Rory »

nope, mine worked fine. u seem to have enough throw on the clutch. i had this problem in my old rodeo, ended up starting it in gear with clutch in(so car was rolling forward at idle) then giving it a few sharp stabs on the throttle with the clutch pushed in and it released n worked normally from that day
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