Just wondering what is the average life expectancy of my 3.0ltr, it gets an oil change every 5000klm, using quality oil of course. It doesn't blow smoke and uses pretty much no oil between changes, it has 280k on the clock. my main concern is are these engines prone to probs later in life? and is it just guna drop it guts one day?
Thanks
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Average Engine life of V6 3.0l
Moderator: -Scott-
Unless it is run out of engine oil, the head gasket or a cracked head will be the first problem. this can happen as low as 150k or as high as 300k.
I have heard of people getting over 400k on the original engine with religious servicing.
Other problem is valve stem seals which in my experience need replacing every 150k. This is possibly how some vehicles are run out of engine oil as some owners do not check the oil.
REgards
Epitrochoid
I have heard of people getting over 400k on the original engine with religious servicing.
Other problem is valve stem seals which in my experience need replacing every 150k. This is possibly how some vehicles are run out of engine oil as some owners do not check the oil.
REgards
Epitrochoid
Probably the most important factor in engine life is the type of service. If you have a lot of cold starts, short runs etc, that is by far the worst thing you can do to an engine. If you start it up and drive long runs, they should last a very long time. I have a friend with a Landcruiser with about 500000 km on it and it still doesn't touch a drop of oil between changes - about 10000 km. He does long runs all the time. I know of others who have had 3 replacement engines in less than 100000 km, but they were short runs, stop.start - all cold. The thermostat plays a big part here too in getting the engine up to operating temperature as quickly as possible.
5000 km oil change intervals is good. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
Case in point - my Wife's TM Magna had 150000 km on it when we went for a drive outback, towing a caravan. Wife did short runs - downtown, to tennis etc. It used about 1 litre of oil per 1000 km. I was worried about what would happen to the engine on the long trip. I was going to change the oil somewhere between 5000 and 10000 km. Well, at 10000 km - in Darwin, the oil was still clean and it hadn't touched a drop. I decided to leave it but kept an eye on the levels. In Perth (4000 km later), the oil just started to turn black, but I left it because it was still cleaner than normal 5000 km change intervals. We got home and I immediately changed the oil (18000 km by now) and it was still slippery and was down about 0.7 L. Then the short runs resumed and oil consumption went back to 1 L per 1000 km... We had the TM for 345000 km and I last saw it at 375000 km, still going well. New rings at 240000 km, but thay were still OK even then - it had a cracked head and when it was stripped, I put new rings/bearings in at the same time. That TM didn't owe me much in the time we had it.
5000 km oil change intervals is good. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
Case in point - my Wife's TM Magna had 150000 km on it when we went for a drive outback, towing a caravan. Wife did short runs - downtown, to tennis etc. It used about 1 litre of oil per 1000 km. I was worried about what would happen to the engine on the long trip. I was going to change the oil somewhere between 5000 and 10000 km. Well, at 10000 km - in Darwin, the oil was still clean and it hadn't touched a drop. I decided to leave it but kept an eye on the levels. In Perth (4000 km later), the oil just started to turn black, but I left it because it was still cleaner than normal 5000 km change intervals. We got home and I immediately changed the oil (18000 km by now) and it was still slippery and was down about 0.7 L. Then the short runs resumed and oil consumption went back to 1 L per 1000 km... We had the TM for 345000 km and I last saw it at 375000 km, still going well. New rings at 240000 km, but thay were still OK even then - it had a cracked head and when it was stripped, I put new rings/bearings in at the same time. That TM didn't owe me much in the time we had it.
Same engine, broader question.
Mine has around 260,000 on the clock and is my daily drive (60kms/day). Seems to run fine, though its losing oil (oil leak onto the sump guard) but can't find from where without taking the whole thing out. But as you say - oil is cheap.
I don't have a lot of car knowledge - all work/servicing by my local mechanic - I'm thinking about taking a 4week drive Melb-Darwin and back next year and was wondering
a) if I'm stupid doing it in this car (91 SWB) with my lack of mechanical knowledge?
b) what sort of pre-servicing I should get done to the car (what should I get checked)?
c) should I factor in flights back from Darwin into my budget?!
I see these backpackers in ancient looking landcruisers all the time crossing the country. I'm sure they have problems all the time, but thats part of the adventure isn't it?
Mine has around 260,000 on the clock and is my daily drive (60kms/day). Seems to run fine, though its losing oil (oil leak onto the sump guard) but can't find from where without taking the whole thing out. But as you say - oil is cheap.
I don't have a lot of car knowledge - all work/servicing by my local mechanic - I'm thinking about taking a 4week drive Melb-Darwin and back next year and was wondering
a) if I'm stupid doing it in this car (91 SWB) with my lack of mechanical knowledge?
b) what sort of pre-servicing I should get done to the car (what should I get checked)?
c) should I factor in flights back from Darwin into my budget?!
I see these backpackers in ancient looking landcruisers all the time crossing the country. I'm sure they have problems all the time, but thats part of the adventure isn't it?
My first NH Swb did 325,000kms on the first engine. Tappets were noisy, valve stem seals needing doing so I opted for a low kms replacement. The only reason I did this was due to the engine being out as i got a full respray after getting some gravel rash over the body....
I reckon I could have easily seen another 50,000kms from it.
I reckon I could have easily seen another 50,000kms from it.
09 Mitsu Evo X Mr
09 Suzuki Swift
09 VW 190kw Tiguan
09 Suzuki Swift
09 VW 190kw Tiguan
mccpijs4:
Obviously, not seeing your engine, I cannot give detailed answers, but the following comments would generally apply to anyone.
Oil leaks are a pain in the butt, but they generally come from the top of the engine somewhere. I had an oil leak from the rear of the camshaft. It leaked all over the starter motor. It took about 3 months to find it but only about 15 minutes to fix it (new O ring). The big issue is when the oil gets onto rubber components eg steering or suspension links, engine mounts etc. The rubber doesn't like oil. Also, in NSW you have to get a roadworthy certificate every year and they can knock you back for oil leaks.
I used to have a Range Rover but got tired of mopping up oil from the garage floor. They do say that Rovers don't leak oil - they are simply marking their territory.
On the issue of driving to Darwin - again without seeing your car - remember that the road is full of people heading both ways. if you stick to the main roads you should have no problems. Sure - you might blow a radiator hose, have a gearbox bearing fail - anything can go wrong, but if you have your car checked out by your mechanic you SHOULD be OK. Mitsubishis are generally reliable - that is why I bought one in 1978, another in 1985 and 2 of them in 2000. Both of my current vehicles have over 200000 km on them now and we would jump into either car and go outback tomorrow without any hesitation. OK - I service them myself and know what they are like, but they are reliable.
Obviously, not seeing your engine, I cannot give detailed answers, but the following comments would generally apply to anyone.
Oil leaks are a pain in the butt, but they generally come from the top of the engine somewhere. I had an oil leak from the rear of the camshaft. It leaked all over the starter motor. It took about 3 months to find it but only about 15 minutes to fix it (new O ring). The big issue is when the oil gets onto rubber components eg steering or suspension links, engine mounts etc. The rubber doesn't like oil. Also, in NSW you have to get a roadworthy certificate every year and they can knock you back for oil leaks.
I used to have a Range Rover but got tired of mopping up oil from the garage floor. They do say that Rovers don't leak oil - they are simply marking their territory.
On the issue of driving to Darwin - again without seeing your car - remember that the road is full of people heading both ways. if you stick to the main roads you should have no problems. Sure - you might blow a radiator hose, have a gearbox bearing fail - anything can go wrong, but if you have your car checked out by your mechanic you SHOULD be OK. Mitsubishis are generally reliable - that is why I bought one in 1978, another in 1985 and 2 of them in 2000. Both of my current vehicles have over 200000 km on them now and we would jump into either car and go outback tomorrow without any hesitation. OK - I service them myself and know what they are like, but they are reliable.
You should have no worries with yout vehicle. If you break down, call me on my mobile 0123 456 789. Seriously, if you have your car checked over by someone who knows, it SHOULD be OK. They are fairly reliable vehicles. Come to think of it, most newer cars are reliable these days. Start your trip with fresh oils in the engine, gearbox, transfer case and diffs and at least you should have correct levels when you leave.
On the subject of creaking rubbers, I had a near new ball joint - sadly a non greasable type fitted. We went through water in several places in Kakadu and Kunnanurra - only about knee deep or less, but by the time we got to Carnarvon in WA, we had the worst creaks and groans from the new ball joint I had ever heard. I eventually had to prise off the boot on the ball joint and force some grease into it. The local guy replaced it when I got home but the new one started to creak again, so I repeated the fix and since then no more noises. It may pay to check your ball joints before you leave home.
A tip for you (and anyone else who is heading North). Not sure when you are going, but in the high season (June to October), it pays to book ahead or check into your overnight accommodation early ie before 3:00 pm or you may miss out. A few years back, we left Longreach and went to Winton - only a few hours drive North. We got there at 11:00 am and got the last free spot in the caravan park. There were later arrivals but they had obviously pre-booked.
On the subject of creaking rubbers, I had a near new ball joint - sadly a non greasable type fitted. We went through water in several places in Kakadu and Kunnanurra - only about knee deep or less, but by the time we got to Carnarvon in WA, we had the worst creaks and groans from the new ball joint I had ever heard. I eventually had to prise off the boot on the ball joint and force some grease into it. The local guy replaced it when I got home but the new one started to creak again, so I repeated the fix and since then no more noises. It may pay to check your ball joints before you leave home.
A tip for you (and anyone else who is heading North). Not sure when you are going, but in the high season (June to October), it pays to book ahead or check into your overnight accommodation early ie before 3:00 pm or you may miss out. A few years back, we left Longreach and went to Winton - only a few hours drive North. We got there at 11:00 am and got the last free spot in the caravan park. There were later arrivals but they had obviously pre-booked.
I have about 370K on my '89 3.0L in the U.S. Oil and filter every 2500mi - 4000K. No engine problems, but I have blown heater and radiator hoses. I would replace or carry spares (and water). The radiators tend to cause problems as well. I try to use de-mineralized water.
1989 MMC/Dodge Raider 5Spd SWB 3.0L NW USA
1995 NJ GLX 5Spd SWB 3.0L SE QLD
1995 NJ GLX 5Spd SWB 3.0L SE QLD
This is good advice ..Bernoulli wrote:I have about 370K on my '89 3.0L in the U.S. Oil and filter every 2500mi - 4000K. No engine problems, but I have blown heater and radiator hoses. I would replace or carry spares (and water). The radiators tend to cause problems as well. I try to use de-mineralized water.
I would also carry some hose clamps and bits of tube a similar inside diameter to the hose (if they do split you can cut it and sleeve the hose and reclamp .. not an ideal solution but will get you to a place you can pick up a proper spare)
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