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In the process of rebuilding my motor after it spun 3 bigends. The motor is now stripped down to just the block and ready to be send away with the crank and rods to all be machined. Just wondering if there is anything I should be doing while its in this state to get more power/reliablility of out my motor? I figure if I have it pulled apart then nows the time to go crazy and do everything.
The turbo is getting sent away also as there is some play in it but not enough that it has marked the housing so hopefully it doesnt need to be machined and I can save some big dollars.
Questions -
Will the stock turbo be fine?
Is there any need to change the compressor wheel?
Is the stock wastegate good enough? Do I need an external one instead?
Is it just good enough to just over fuel the motor to get more power out of it or not?
Is a FMIC a good investment?
What guages do I need? eg. boost and egts/pyro - What are the good brands?
I'm looking to put a 3" beaudesert exhaust system on it with a 3 1/2" dump pipe.
Looking at a rebuild for mine as well mate, no spun bearing but oil leak at rear of head. Need to remove head to fix it and i might as well replace the rings and bearings ect coz of the blow by i'm getting. Hope i don't have to go to far into replacing too many parts but i'd like to freshen her up as she's 300 000 kms on the clock and wanted to replace the mains anyway. How do you tell if your turbo is worn? Only done by removing it i assume. Anyone out there know of after market gear thats better than any parts that let you down in the 1HDT? Would like to get more out of my motor without making it reliable too.
I would definitely go for 3" exhaust, it will make a big difference by itself.
Also fit the biggest FMIC you can fit in the space available.
If you are going to up the fuel, an EGT gauge is essential. Boost gauge is handy but not as important.
Price up a Garrettt ball bearing turbo before you commit to rebuilding the original. You might find it wont cost a whole lot more than a reco. Machining out and modifiying the original turbo is of questionable value in my opinion, a suitable Garrett can be bought for about the same money, and should be a better performer too.
You can increase the boost with a waste gate controller. no need for external wastegate. More boost and more fuel will see big changes in the performance, It is Essential to monitor the EGTs though. A FMIC will allow you to increase fuel and boost a little more and still have EGTs at safe levels.
Tuning of the fuel pump is quite tricky to get right because of the boost compensator.
rowenb wrote:Looking at a rebuild for mine as well mate, no spun bearing but oil leak at rear of head. Need to remove head to fix it and i might as well replace the rings and bearings ect coz of the blow by i'm getting. Hope i don't have to go to far into replacing too many parts but i'd like to freshen her up as she's 300 000 kms on the clock and wanted to replace the mains anyway. How do you tell if your turbo is worn? Only done by removing it i assume. Anyone out there know of after market gear thats better than any parts that let you down in the 1HDT? Would like to get more out of my motor without making it reliable too.
I would advise against doing a half arsed freshen up. I just learnt the hard way that it can be money down the drain and then some
Hey 80 thanks for the feed back. Reckon you would have a rough price on a Garret turbo and FMIC? I've heard of guys putting Garret t04 compressor wheels in the turbo. Reckon that would be the go? The turbo gets sent away tomorrow so just need to decide what I wanna do that's all. Bit last minute.
mate i have just fitted a gt2871r to my 1hdt. and hopefully soon will have the water to air cooler done and fitted then it is off to get tuned.
as far as garretts go all the shops that i spoke to said fit the gt2860 they said my gt2871r is to big and the standard fuel pump wont be able to supply enough fuel with out internal mods. we will see anyway once i get mine tuned.
as far as garrett turbo cost a gt2860 is around the 1450 mark and they go up from there. some internet companies will sell them cheaper but i just went for a local shop as if i had any problems i could go back to them.
also if you do go down fitting a garrett gt28 of some kind pm matt mcinnes on here as he does a one piece adaptor flange.
also with the wasgate actuator i had to modify the bracket due to the actuator hitting the block
Grylls wrote:Hey 80 thanks for the feed back. Reckon you would have a rough price on a Garret turbo and FMIC? I've heard of guys putting Garret t04 compressor wheels in the turbo. Reckon that would be the go? The turbo gets sent away tomorrow so just need to decide what I wanna do that's all. Bit last minute.
Personally, if you are going to go to that much trouble an expense (it wont be cheap), I would get a Garrett, at least then you know everything is matched and new, not just bodged together by some turbo shop who may have done a handful of them before
I got a price on a gt2860 (disco potato) and it was around the $1500 mark. Also got a pricing on getting the housing machine to fit a Garrett T04C compressor wheel and new internals for roughly the same price both through MTQ. How much messing round is involved with fitting the gt2860? How much is the adapter plate etc? Just leaning towards fitting a new compressor wheel as I then don't have to change as much but then again the garret is the same price and is all brand new.
i guess it all comes down to how much you want to spend. if you get the ct26 done up then it is going to cost you x amount and you put it back on and away you go. but if you go with the garrett it is going to cost you x amount for the turbo and then the rest of the stuff you need
garrett turbo things you need
1 turbo
2 turbo fitting kit- includes exhaust flange, water and oil fittings studs
3 new dump pipe- fabricated or bought one
4 new oil supply line- braided stainless
5 oil return hoses- garrett to engine 2 different size hoses
6 new intake hoses- 90 and 45 degree
7 new turbo to crossover pipe hose
8 2 new water lines to turbo
9 turbo to manifold adaptor plate
10 depending on how much boost maybe a new wastegate actuator. standard supplied is 6psi i got a 12psi actuator
11 3 inch exhaust- i ran mine inside the chassis rail
12 boost gauge to measure boost
13 egt gauge
message me if you want any more info
i think if you go the garret option it will cost you over 2g
Yeah I'm thinking I might steer away from that option . It might just be easier (cheaper) to get the housing machine to fit a bigger turbine (thats if I really need it). Then I'll still have some coin spare to throw into an intercooler. Anyone got any other suggestions on what I could do to improve the preformance of my motor? Ported Heads etc? haha .. I think I'm getting a little carried away What are the good brands of boost and pyro guages? APS Safari Intercooler - Is there any better?
if you are baulking at the cost of a Garrett, I think porting the head will be out of your budget.
The head wont really restrict the performance to much anyway IMO unless you go for something like compound turbos and heavily modified fuel pump.
I think there would be gains to be had through porting, but not sure it would be worth the cost.
Upgrading the turbo, zorst and FMIC, winding up the fuel and boost will see some pretty decent gains in torque and power. These are all pretty basic mods, but done right will make a big difference. The 1HD-T engines are being built by Yanmar Marine as a marine engine that puts out very close to double the power of the Toyota engine, so if the engine is up to scratch, there is no need to upgrade them beyond the basics.
PWR make really good quality intercoolers in a range of sizes. The Safari intercoolers have a good reputation, but are very pricey.
ledgend80 wrote:why would you want to up the compression on a turbo motor
For more low down torque, it would be like a turbo on a 1hz or 3b. they have better compression, for one thing more engine braking on down hills.
Oh and 80 delirious, so your suggesting bolting a turbo on a turbo.
Why dont people just answer questions, instead of questioning a question or being a smart arse.
but then wouldnt the engine be just like a 1hz and then with the higher compression you wouldnt be able to run as much boost. i thought there was a reason why turbo motors ran lower compression.
ledgend80 wrote:why would you want to up the compression on a turbo motor
For more low down torque, it would be like a turbo on a 1hz or 3b. they have better compression, for one thing more engine braking on down hills.
Oh and 80 delirious, so your suggesting bolting a turbo on a turbo.
Why dont people just answer questions, instead of questioning a question or being a smart arse.
fair enough.
The 1hd-t has a flat head and a combustion chamber in the top of the piston. The piston crown sits higher than the engine block by almost 1mm. compression and piston/head clearance is partly set by selecting the head gasket thickness.
It may be possible to slightly increase compression by using a thinner head gasket, but this would be at the risk of pistons and head getting a little too intimate.
It would be possible to improve bottom end torque with a VNT turbo or smaller turbo used in compound with a second larger turbo and wastegated etc appropriately.
With the fuel and boost wound up, I have found the 1HD-T to be pretty good in most low range stuff, producing boost and torque from around 14-1500rpm. I have 35" tyres on mine which rob a little torque. Occasionally it would be good to have more low end torque in steep rocky climbs.
Another option for improving driveablity at low RPM is to use a gearbox from behind a 1HZ, they have a lower 1st and 2nd gear ratio which will lift RPM for a given speed.
Crawler gears in the transfer are another option, or change diff ratios, or run 31" or 33" tyres.
ledgend80 wrote:why would you want to up the compression on a turbo motor
For more low down torque, it would be like a turbo on a 1hz or 3b. they have better compression, for one thing more engine braking on down hills.
Oh and 80 delirious, so your suggesting bolting a turbo on a turbo.
Why dont people just answer questions, instead of questioning a question or being a smart arse.
fair enough.
The 1hd-t has a flat head and a combustion chamber in the top of the piston. The piston crown sits higher than the engine block by almost 1mm. compression and piston/head clearance is partly set by selecting the head gasket thickness.
It may be possible to slightly increase compression by using a thinner head gasket, but this would be at the risk of pistons and head getting a little too intimate.
It would be possible to improve bottom end torque with a VNT turbo or smaller turbo used in compound with a second larger turbo and wastegated etc appropriately.
With the fuel and boost wound up, I have found the 1HD-T to be pretty good in most low range stuff, producing boost and torque from around 14-1500rpm. I have 35" tyres on mine which rob a little torque. Occasionally it would be good to have more low end torque in steep rocky climbs.
Another option for improving driveablity at low RPM is to use a gearbox from behind a 1HZ, they have a lower 1st and 2nd gear ratio which will lift RPM for a given speed.
Crawler gears in the transfer are another option, or change diff ratios, or run 31" or 33" tyres.
Thank you for that. That is exactly the sort of info I was after. So no playing with the engine apart from freshen up, thats good. The 1hz box, Is it as strong as the 1hdt box or am I asking for trouble. Or could i put the 1hz 1st and second in the 1hdt box? It is only first and second, well first really that I find the problem with in the 80., well apart from 5th being to low lol. t/fer gears in low range is definatly another option. In your humble opinion what would you do, 1hz gearing or low range gears? How do you up the off boost fuel, I find it lacks quite a bit when it is not on boost, which is why I asked the compression question.
Cheers.
the 1hz and 1hd-t boxes are the same except I think the 1hz has a different input shaft, so you would need a clutch plate to suit.
to swap the 1st and 2nd gear. you would have to swap over the lay shaft also, which means basically a full rebuild.
IMHO I think transfer gears are the best option, I find the gearing fine on road and wouldnt want to go for lower diff gears, as you said, 5th is already a bit low.
to increase the fuel have a look at the link below for a good starting point. It is fiddly as fark, but can get some good reults. Get yourself an EGT gauge if you are going to start tuning it, it is easy to up the fuel too much and do damage.
i personally would leave the 1hdt gearbox how it is and would go down the the reduction gears in the t/case option. i find first low enough for general driving but i will do more black top driving them off the black top driving at this stage. yes it does need another gear above fifth and others i have seen on here ask the question but i think for the cost it would not be worth it. try this link
ledgend80 wrote:i personally would leave the 1hdt gearbox how it is and would go down the the reduction gears in the t/case option. i find first low enough for general driving but i will do more black top driving them off the black top driving at this stage. yes it does need another gear above fifth and others i have seen on here ask the question but i think for the cost it would not be worth it. try this link
while i was typing this i see 80's_delirious beat me to the punch oh well you see where we are both going.
thank you both, you have given me good info and opinions, and direstion on the way I will go. I will look at the t/fer reduction option, it sounds like the go.
lol, Yes if only 5th was a little taller.
Thanks guys.
Edit. just had a look at the link. Good stuff. And good site.
If your looking at a rebuild you could consider getting the pistons ceramic coated so you have the potential to have higher cylinder temps without killing anything. The turbo can have a front housing and impellor off a supra or 1hd-ft, both are bigger than the 1hdt. More air from the turbo should see your egt's drop so you can crank up the fuel. The safari intercooler is also the go for dropping egt's and maintaining reliability. If you just want more power lpg will give you the extra fuel beyond what the inj pump can deliver. Coupled with a 3in exhaust and more boost its a big jump over standard.
Thanks for all the feed back everyone. Looks like I'll be fitting a safari intercooler and getting the turbo housing machined to fit a bigger compressor wheel then high flowed. Just a question, whats so special about the beaudesert eshaust systems? I can get a custom made one fitted for $250 less then one. Is it just the name? Hey rapid80 how much would I be looking at to get the pistons coated? Also I need some help on guages. I need both a pyro and a boost. How much are they and what are the good brands?
for the gauges if you want cheap online or super cheap. repco will be a bit dearer or autobarn will have autometer and other brands. boost gauge can be had from 50 to about 130 and pyro will be about 200+. how come you are going with the safari intercooler. i am part way throughmy air to water install
Going to go for the safari as its an easy simple install plus its also reliable. I'm lead to believe also that air to air if more effecient than air to water but thats just what I've heard. How much is the set up there looking to set you back?
This is the gauge I use. Bit different to how most people go about it, but I wanted to simplify and keep it neat and not cluttered. Only prob is it has to be ordered from the states. Made by BD Performance
. It might just be easier (cheaper) to get the housing machine to fit a bigger turbine (thats if I really need it). Then I'll still have some coin spare to throw into an intercooler. Anyone got any other suggestions on what I could do to improve the preformance of my motor? Ported Heads etc? haha .. I think I'm getting a little carried away 
