can anyone help me i am looking at doing a 2" body lift on my sahara do i need to do other mods to fit the 2" body lift
do i need to do anything to fuel filler or steering etc
if so what
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60 series body lift info
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
I went extended brake lines and just cut the shroud but when I had it Turbo Charged later the installer gave me slap in the head and sent me out for a new fan shroud and he lowered the radiator, something you might want to do.
I'm not quitting drinking, I'm retiring at the top of my game - sporting comeback likely.
This is true, don't touch the fan shroud! Lower the radiator, it is easy and possibly quicker than attacking the shroud with a grinder!
You may have to make a bit more clearance for the transfer selector as they commonly bump in and out from 4l to neutral from contact with the body after this mod.
Fuel tank & filler are all mounted to the body itself so raising from the chassis wont be a problem.
Steering wont be a problem with 2" lift as there is enough spline on the steering column entering the steering box to handle the change. Just keep your eye on the steering box for a few days to make sure there is no major fluid loss from the box as sometimes the seals in these boxes can be old and worn and don't like well to the change or movement from the lift.
Hope this helps, also you should only use high tensile steel when replacing you bolts, HT brooker bar is cheap enough and easy to make bolts from. Just make sure you COLD pein the excess thread over to make the heads.
You may have to make a bit more clearance for the transfer selector as they commonly bump in and out from 4l to neutral from contact with the body after this mod.
Fuel tank & filler are all mounted to the body itself so raising from the chassis wont be a problem.
Steering wont be a problem with 2" lift as there is enough spline on the steering column entering the steering box to handle the change. Just keep your eye on the steering box for a few days to make sure there is no major fluid loss from the box as sometimes the seals in these boxes can be old and worn and don't like well to the change or movement from the lift.
Hope this helps, also you should only use high tensile steel when replacing you bolts, HT brooker bar is cheap enough and easy to make bolts from. Just make sure you COLD pein the excess thread over to make the heads.
LN106 1uzfe - 33's - crawlers - locker
HJ61 Sprung over -20psi - 35's - dual locked
HJ61 Sprung over -20psi - 35's - dual locked
No there shouldnt be a cross member for the radiator. It should have a bracket at the bottom on each side that is bolted to the front end and supprting the rad. If you look at it from the passengers side it is easy to see, for the drivers side you may have to remove the battery tray to see it.
After you get the aircon radiator out of the way it should be clearer what you have to do.
Basically re-drill the holes in the front end 50mm (the height of the body lift) lower than the original holes. The top rad. mounts are simple as the bolts pass through the front end and tap into the radiator. As for the lower mounts, I think you will only be able to use 2 of the 3 bolts to mount the support brakets back to the body, cant remember the reason why but 2 bolts should be enough for this job.
Hope this helps....
After you get the aircon radiator out of the way it should be clearer what you have to do.
Basically re-drill the holes in the front end 50mm (the height of the body lift) lower than the original holes. The top rad. mounts are simple as the bolts pass through the front end and tap into the radiator. As for the lower mounts, I think you will only be able to use 2 of the 3 bolts to mount the support brakets back to the body, cant remember the reason why but 2 bolts should be enough for this job.
Hope this helps....
LN106 1uzfe - 33's - crawlers - locker
HJ61 Sprung over -20psi - 35's - dual locked
HJ61 Sprung over -20psi - 35's - dual locked
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