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roof top lights

General Tech Talk

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roof top lights

Post by 4wheelsdriven »

I have just brought myself a roofrack for my gu patrol and am thinking of mounting a reverse light at the back and driving lights up front. What have you guys used to get the wires threw the roof, is there something on the market i can buy.
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Post by hiluxmad »

check the B pillar for a rubber grommet some cars have em..
if not just tuck em around the door seal on the b pillar
Keep it shiny side up!
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Post by PJ.zook »

I just drilled a hole, used a grommet and sealed with coon. Granted i have no qualms about drilling holes in the Sierra, you might think twice about doing it in a GU.
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Post by TroopiePete »

Don't forget to install a plug in line so you can take the roof rack and lights off the car without having to cut the wires, a water proof type of plug would be best.

The main problem is that some people have is under sizing the cables supplying the lights, 100W Lights draw 8 Amps - each!, put a heap of them up there and the cables can get quite large. - 4 x 100W = 32Amps
And keep the cable runs short as at 12 Volts voltage drop is significant.

Also don't forget to run a Ground wire as the roof rack will not have a good earth, or for each light run both a Positive and Negative wire of equal size.
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Post by macneil »

TroopiePete wrote:Don't forget to install a plug in line so you can take the roof rack and lights off the car without having to cut the wires, a water proof type of plug would be best.

The main problem is that some people have is under sizing the cables supplying the lights, 100W Lights draw 8 Amps - each!, put a heap of them up there and the cables can get quite large. - 4 x 100W = 32Amps
And keep the cable runs short as at 12 Volts voltage drop is significant.

Also don't forget to run a Ground wire as the roof rack will not have a good earth, or for each light run both a Positive and Negative wire of equal size.
true to stop voltage drop tho run a bigger wire... this is where is best to run out under the bonnet up near the snorkle as going through the car will be a longer run... not to mention so many wires!! will take alot of the grommet space up in your firewall..
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rack lights

Post by 265grunter »

why not put a 7 pin round trailer plug up at the underside of the gutter on the back pillar,run the biggest cable that u can fit and parallel them to overcome the voltage drop.this way u have spare cables to connect led lights to the rack for blinkers,stop etc.
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Post by TroopiePete »

Not a bad idea except some may not like to cut a hole this large.

The idea of running the cable up the snorkle is possibly the best idea, it also keeps the cable runs short for the high current loads such as driving lights, a plug could be installed up the top or down in the engine bay.
Still the idea of using a Trailer plug is not a bad idea, although not totally water proof.
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Post by beinthemud »

Ghay
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Post by TroopiePete »

beinthemud wrote:Ghay
Guess you could be called that, depends on the mud you have been playing in :?
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Post by beinthemud »

TroopiePete wrote:
beinthemud wrote:Ghay
Guess you could be called that, depends on the mud you have been playing in :?
Which one have you been in then :finger:
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roof lights

Post by 265grunter »

wouldnt be too concerned about waterproofing considering the cars that have roof lights normally have rooted rear window seals, rusted side window frames,perished firewall grommets...................................
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Re: roof lights

Post by TroopiePete »

265grunter wrote:wouldnt be too concerned about waterproofing considering the cars that have roof lights normally have rooted rear window seals, rusted side window frames,perished firewall grommets...................................
Good point.

I have thought of adding lights up top but I already hook too many things of the roof racks, think I collected a few trees while on the inland tracks on Fraser, even managed to knock a bit of paint off!
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Post by 4wheelsdriven »

So by the sounds of it there is not much out there to do this job neatly and professionally.
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