Hi all,
I inherited the "car from hell" from my daughter..1995 Feroza.
I am a Diesel mechanic......
It constantly overheated, had the head cracked tested 3 times and a new radiator, water pump, and thermostat...burned lots of oil and leaked lots of oil,so she dumped the car in my back yard for over a year...and does not want it back, as she now owns a Audi....
So I decided to install a second hand engine from a wrecker from Vic,
It inittially overheated so I fitted a OEM thermostat and now the temp gauge sits at half way...is this normal as other have posted that their gauge is at the 1/3rd mark. on a hot day with the AC on the gauge will go to 3/4.
Also the fuel consumption was bad 15lt/100km.....the exhaust manifold was cracked, which I welded, and fitted a new O2 sensor, checked the timing and vac advance, cam belt timing...the car still uses lots of fuel, however I have a Air Fuel ratio tester and it shows 14/1 AF ratio on the highway.
Apart from these two issues the car is in immaculate condition...every thing works and is a joy off road compaired to my old Hilux.
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A few Feroza questions --new owner
Moderator: Tiny
No I did not pressure test the system as I am using coolant with a dye in is so if there is a leak I will be able to see where it is leaking from, the heater core is not leaking.
With the new diahatsu thermostat, just idling in the shed the temp gauge gets up to half way, and half way while driving on the highway, and 3/4 up long hills...I may have to flush the block and radiator.
Which sender at the back of the head is for the temp gauge as my F300 HD-E has three, one with two wires, and the other two has the single wire...the workshop manual is not so clear.
With the new diahatsu thermostat, just idling in the shed the temp gauge gets up to half way, and half way while driving on the highway, and 3/4 up long hills...I may have to flush the block and radiator.
Which sender at the back of the head is for the temp gauge as my F300 HD-E has three, one with two wires, and the other two has the single wire...the workshop manual is not so clear.
My F300 has a relatively new radiator (about 18mnths) recently flushed , new coolant, no leaks but has always sat just under 1/2
NuB but all DIY 92 F300 2"b/lift,15x7 black Dynamic,31"Bignhorny,Bocar b/bar,reversed rollbar,cust
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
Feroza = overheat
Assuming the guage calibration is right ( and that's a BIG assumption ) just under half way is normal.
Aftermarket thermostats are always a concern, all the waterpumps are a crap design and don't flow effectively, Thermostat in the bottom of the block is just plain odd, mead has some dead spots that overheat and cause pinging, fan hubs loose drive etc etc......
On a system that was marginal from new - its takes very little to push them over the edge.
And 10-12 l/100k seems about the norm, with the higher numbers being for lifted / modified Roza's
Assuming the guage calibration is right ( and that's a BIG assumption ) just under half way is normal.
Aftermarket thermostats are always a concern, all the waterpumps are a crap design and don't flow effectively, Thermostat in the bottom of the block is just plain odd, mead has some dead spots that overheat and cause pinging, fan hubs loose drive etc etc......
On a system that was marginal from new - its takes very little to push them over the edge.
And 10-12 l/100k seems about the norm, with the higher numbers being for lifted / modified Roza's
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I bought a radiator cap with a temp gauge built in just to check to see what that sits at. I popped the lower rad hose after I did my body lift (fan was just nicking it), and the gauge shot right up. Luckily I noticed straight up and there didn't seem to be any damage. That was about 12 months ago. I moved the rad down n no more probs. Lucky to have learnt by the experience 
Other than that, my gauge has always sat at about 3 minutes to 12.
Other than that, my gauge has always sat at about 3 minutes to 12.NuB but all DIY 92 F300 2"b/lift,15x7 black Dynamic,31"Bignhorny,Bocar b/bar,reversed rollbar,cust
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
Feroza= overheat...what an engineering disaster....
In my 25 odd years of being a mechanic....mostly diesel....I have never seen a thermostat in the lower block...now when I was an apprentice, thermostats were in the top of the head, before the radiator...that way the thermostat would open when the temperature of the coolant reaches the thermostat opening temperature, thus allowing the water to enter the radiator and be cooled...so the theory is.
With the Feroza..... which has a OEM thermostat set to open at 76 degrees C....so does this mean the coolant in the lower part of the block ia technically cooler than at the top of the head....YES...as I fitted a VDO temp gauge into the coolant pipe that comes out of the head.
As previously posted the vehicle temp gauge at the middle position is 82 degrees C so this is normal ( which answers my previous questions)
On a road test the temp did not go above 90 degrees during a long hill climb, which was OK.
However at idle after the drive the VDO gauge went up to 100 degrees at Idle...and went down after I reved the engine....now the interesting thing is that the viscous fan was still roaring away...I think the thermostat got a gut full of cool water from the radiator and then closed,thus not circulating water through the system and the water in the radiator was still warm, while the VDO gauge was reading 82 degrees.....normally the fan would have stopped by then.
I may have to fit a thermostat at the top of the head...like every other car.
Looking at the radiator....why is it so small when it could be another two inches wider at either side....I may investigate a larger radiator...plenty of room for a 3 core.
Not sure if the water pump is an issue I think it is more the thermostat closing and not allowing coolant to circulate while the coolant in the head has no where to go.
The cooling system in the Feroza is not made for Australian conditions.....
In my 25 odd years of being a mechanic....mostly diesel....I have never seen a thermostat in the lower block...now when I was an apprentice, thermostats were in the top of the head, before the radiator...that way the thermostat would open when the temperature of the coolant reaches the thermostat opening temperature, thus allowing the water to enter the radiator and be cooled...so the theory is.
With the Feroza..... which has a OEM thermostat set to open at 76 degrees C....so does this mean the coolant in the lower part of the block ia technically cooler than at the top of the head....YES...as I fitted a VDO temp gauge into the coolant pipe that comes out of the head.
As previously posted the vehicle temp gauge at the middle position is 82 degrees C so this is normal ( which answers my previous questions)
On a road test the temp did not go above 90 degrees during a long hill climb, which was OK.
However at idle after the drive the VDO gauge went up to 100 degrees at Idle...and went down after I reved the engine....now the interesting thing is that the viscous fan was still roaring away...I think the thermostat got a gut full of cool water from the radiator and then closed,thus not circulating water through the system and the water in the radiator was still warm, while the VDO gauge was reading 82 degrees.....normally the fan would have stopped by then.
I may have to fit a thermostat at the top of the head...like every other car.
Looking at the radiator....why is it so small when it could be another two inches wider at either side....I may investigate a larger radiator...plenty of room for a 3 core.
Not sure if the water pump is an issue I think it is more the thermostat closing and not allowing coolant to circulate while the coolant in the head has no where to go.
The cooling system in the Feroza is not made for Australian conditions.....
Mine goes to half when driving and never much over, which is pretty good considering the state my radiator is in (and no shroud):
Click for larger image
With Ferozas, does the engine have 2 temp senders or one, and if it has one does it go sender>ECU>gauge or what? Could someone get a shot of the back of their engine/head so I can check it out/compare?
Click for larger image
With Ferozas, does the engine have 2 temp senders or one, and if it has one does it go sender>ECU>gauge or what? Could someone get a shot of the back of their engine/head so I can check it out/compare?
My car from hell has three senders, two at the back of the head, one with two wires plug arrangement on the RH side, one single wire type on the LH side, which operates the gauge, and one at the hose outlet of the head...which I have no idea what that one does.wacky wrote:Mine goes to half when driving and never much over, which is pretty good considering the state my radiator is in (and no shroud):
Click for larger image
With Ferozas, does the engine have 2 temp senders or one, and if it has one does it go sender>ECU>gauge or what? Could someone get a shot of the back of their engine/head so I can check it out/compare?
I made a housing for an external thermostat today and removed the OEM one out of the block, gauge in the car stays at 1/2 but it has been raining today so I will have to wait for a hot day to really test the set up.
Are the wires to your senders yellow or have a green plug? I have a "spare" yellow wire at the rear of the engine, and it appears someone has blanked over the original sender location (passenger side?) with a fat bolt and perhaps installed a smaller one more to the middle-rear (centre of pic below).
It's the hanging "spare" wire concerns me (another pic).
It's the hanging "spare" wire concerns me (another pic).
I also have a sender in the "original"location as well...not sure what it is for.wacky wrote:Are the wires to your senders yellow or have a green plug? I have a "spare" yellow wire at the rear of the engine, and it appears someone has blanked over the original sender location (passenger side?) with a fat bolt and perhaps installed a smaller one more to the middle-rear (centre of pic below).
It's the hanging "spare" wire concerns me (another pic).
I took the car from hell for a long drive yesterday, with the external thermostat at the top of the head and the coolant bypass hose that goes from the head to the top of the radiator disconnected, the car did not over heat, and the coolant over flow bottle level went up only 1/2 an inch as opposed to the original set up when the bottle would be full...thus indicating over heating and pressurisation of the cooling system.ozrob wrote:My car from hell has three senders, two at the back of the head, one with two wires plug arrangement on the RH side, one single wire type on the LH side, which operates the gauge, and one at the hose outlet of the head...which I have no idea what that one does.wacky wrote:Mine goes to half when driving and never much over, which is pretty good considering the state my radiator is in (and no shroud):
Click for larger image
With Ferozas, does the engine have 2 temp senders or one, and if it has one does it go sender>ECU>gauge or what? Could someone get a shot of the back of their engine/head so I can check it out/compare?
I made a housing for an external thermostat today and removed the OEM one out of the block, gauge in the car stays at 1/2 but it has been raining today so I will have to wait for a hot day to really test the set up.
Also a few years back when my daughter bought the car from hell , I experimented with adding silicone oil ( the stuff from Toyota) to the viscous fan hub....I think I added too much oil as the fan is basically constantly on, so I removed a few drops and now the fan only comes on for a few seconds when starting the motor, and after idling when the engine is hot.
Also the vehicle has better pick up and reves out a lot better...I wonder it this has now fixed my fuel economy issue 365km from a full tank.:-(
I've moved my thermostat to the discharge pipe about 2 years ago and it helped...... but with lots of serious offroading its still didn't fix it.
Ive got a 3 row core and twin 16" electric fans etc etc and its still cranky when used hard offroad - I can't run as much advance as the engines capable off as it pings when its hot.
The water pump is crap - huge clearances and horrible impeller, the feroza runs the pump a little faster than the Applause but it still doesn't circulate enough water at low speeds. Those who have fitted electric pumps have reported good results - but the readily available electric pumps are of questionable life IMO so......
Also the head design has issues... there are "dead spots" that starve for flow and overheat leading to detonation....
All in all a troublesome system, that needs a range of cures.
Ive got a 3 row core and twin 16" electric fans etc etc and its still cranky when used hard offroad - I can't run as much advance as the engines capable off as it pings when its hot.
The water pump is crap - huge clearances and horrible impeller, the feroza runs the pump a little faster than the Applause but it still doesn't circulate enough water at low speeds. Those who have fitted electric pumps have reported good results - but the readily available electric pumps are of questionable life IMO so......
Also the head design has issues... there are "dead spots" that starve for flow and overheat leading to detonation....
All in all a troublesome system, that needs a range of cures.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I put a 78° thermostat in my feroza. It hepled a lot. Now the gauge is on 1/3 on higways and other roads , but at offroad it is on 1/2 with help of 2 305mm SPAL vents (1200l) in front of the radiator. One vent is connected on 84° thermoswitch (on discharge pipe is a screw (bottom), and i put a thermoswitch from applause instead of this screw), other vent is always on. I also put a shorter strap and the pump now runs faster.
I will try to change, that one strap for waterpump and other for other things. With that i will have much faster waterpump.
I will try to change, that one strap for waterpump and other for other things. With that i will have much faster waterpump.
I do not need sex, the government fucks me every day!
Question,MightyMouse wrote:I've moved my thermostat to the discharge pipe about 2 years ago and it helped...... but with lots of serious offroading its still didn't fix it.
Ive got a 3 row core and twin 16" electric fans etc etc and its still cranky when used hard offroad - I can't run as much advance as the engines capable off as it pings when its hot.
The water pump is crap - huge clearances and horrible impeller, the feroza runs the pump a little faster than the Applause but it still doesn't circulate enough water at low speeds. Those who have fitted electric pumps have reported good results - but the readily available electric pumps are of questionable life IMO so......
Also the head design has issues... there are "dead spots" that starve for flow and overheat leading to detonation....
All in all a troublesome system, that needs a range of cures.
How do you fit a 16"electric fan when the radiator core is only 14" in height?
Have you made a cowling ?
Its wider than high.... so covering the width is more important.
Following the logic - part of the fan(s) overlap the top / bottom tanks - but that doesn't matter as more of the width is used.
One fan is a pusher fan on the front of the radiator and the other a puller on the rear. Having moved the engine the stock mechanical system / shroud etc etc just wouldn't fit.
Following the logic - part of the fan(s) overlap the top / bottom tanks - but that doesn't matter as more of the width is used.
One fan is a pusher fan on the front of the radiator and the other a puller on the rear. Having moved the engine the stock mechanical system / shroud etc etc just wouldn't fit.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Re: A few Feroza questions --new owner
Hey OL team,
So yesterday I put a new gearbox and tcase in my missus' Feroza, and all went well except for two things.. The speedo isn't working anymore and the temp gauge isn't working any more.
Can anyone tell me which wire i may have accidentally unplugged which has now stopped the temp gauge from working? I think the speedo cable has pullled out of the housing behind the instrument cluster :(
So yesterday I put a new gearbox and tcase in my missus' Feroza, and all went well except for two things.. The speedo isn't working anymore and the temp gauge isn't working any more.
Can anyone tell me which wire i may have accidentally unplugged which has now stopped the temp gauge from working? I think the speedo cable has pullled out of the housing behind the instrument cluster :(
indubitably
Re: A few Feroza questions --new owner
IIRC, the Temp guage sender is near the front right (looking from driver's position).
Speedo? I'll have to have a think about that... a couple of beers on board atm
Speedo? I'll have to have a think about that... a couple of beers on board atm
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
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