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Hey guys, im putting a bigger alternator on the paj and am thinking about mounting it off 4 threaded holes in the side of the head. Does anyone see a Problem mouting it in such a manor IE damage to the head??? IM not putting it in its original spot as I have an Air Con Compressor which will sit down where the alt currently is.
Here are some Pix of the holes, and the start of a bracket I have made. They are factory tapped holes I assume for a lifting point or something.
Here is the bracket, its 90 X 100 X 6mm plate.
It will have 2 tabs mounted off it and a tube mounted to the end of the tabs for the Alternator bolt to go through...
I know this is technically a Fab question but i Figured it was better here than general tech.
Cheers, Rob.
The Box-Kite Paj: Gone...
Now: 96 TDI Disco, 2" Lift, 265's and a leaky windscreen...
Im hoping so. I think if I can get out out the the side far enough ill be able to use the existing (water pump - crank - alt) belt providing there will be enough drive onto the water pump pulley. its something like 70 Degrees of Pulley/Belt surface required to drive insnt it???
I guess I can just use a tentioner onto the back of the V-belt to get drive to everything if need be.
The Box-Kite Paj: Gone...
Now: 96 TDI Disco, 2" Lift, 265's and a leaky windscreen...
phat-customs wrote:I guess I can just use a tentioner onto the back of the V-belt to get drive to everything if need be.
I've wondered about this. I have never seen a vee belt tensioned that way, only a serpentine type. All the vee belt tensioners I've seen have been inside not outside.
Is it ever done in factory set-ups? I'm not knocking the idea btw, it would make a lot of things easier, just wondering if there is some reason why it is not good for vee belts.
phat-customs wrote:I guess I can just use a tentioner onto the back of the V-belt to get drive to everything if need be.
I've wondered about this. I have never seen a vee belt tensioned that way, only a serpentine type. All the vee belt tensioners I've seen have been inside not outside.
Is it ever done in factory set-ups? I'm not knocking the idea btw, it would make a lot of things easier, just wondering if there is some reason why it is not good for vee belts.
i have done this to get better wrap around my 2nd alt as the belt was slipping , i used a holden idler pulley that i found in super junk , its been on for close to 12 months without issue so far
phat-customs wrote:I guess I can just use a tentioner onto the back of the V-belt to get drive to everything if need be.
I've wondered about this. I have never seen a vee belt tensioned that way, only a serpentine type. All the vee belt tensioners I've seen have been inside not outside.
Is it ever done in factory set-ups? I'm not knocking the idea btw, it would make a lot of things easier, just wondering if there is some reason why it is not good for vee belts.
i have done this to get better wrap around my 2nd alt as the belt was slipping , i used a holden idler pulley that i found in super junk , its been on for close to 12 months without issue so far
chimpboy wrote:
I've wondered about this. I have never seen a vee belt tensioned that way, only a serpentine type. All the vee belt tensioners I've seen have been inside not outside.
Yes, I was wondering the same, perhaps it will make it more prone to cracking the V open as its opposing its normal shape but
12 months is as good as forever.
Seems to work fine!
I have been told that the heat from the manifold can cause damage to the regulator and make it overcharge ill jsut have to be careful and make a heat sheild if its an issue.
The Box-Kite Paj: Gone...
Now: 96 TDI Disco, 2" Lift, 265's and a leaky windscreen...
If the belt is the style with the tooth format, not a HDT belt but a semi-cog shape as against a standard vee shape, the rear compression wont hurt it as the belt is manufactured to go around smaller pulleys and has different plies and rubber compound. The standard vee belt or wedge shape has no such flexibility and whilst it will cope for a while, you will find the inner or smaller part of the wedge cracking. Reason for this is the tension on the lower profile. The lower part of the wedge is configured to run in compression, such as into the groove.
Having gone thru the theory, if it lasts then its ok, but certainly is against the design manuals.
PBBIZ2 wrote:If the belt is the style with the tooth format, not a HDT belt but a semi-cog shape as against a standard vee shape, the rear compression wont hurt it as the belt is manufactured to go around smaller pulleys and has different plies and rubber compound. The standard vee belt or wedge shape has no such flexibility and whilst it will cope for a while, you will find the inner or smaller part of the wedge cracking. Reason for this is the tension on the lower profile. The lower part of the wedge is configured to run in compression, such as into the groove.
Having gone thru the theory, if it lasts then its ok, but certainly is against the design manuals.
i didnt actually think of that , luckily mine it the tooth type and probly why it has lasted , i didnt pick his mention of " a vee belt " at the time as i call them both vee bellts and just figured different manufacturers had different designs
Also I have a little job in mind that I was wondering how to do, involving two fixed pulleys. I was thinking of how to make one swing on a mount for tension but now I feel that it should be alright to use a separate tensioner on the outside instead.
On a 'picky' point, if you go this way, inspect the outer surface or back face of the belt. Some brands finish their back surfaces flat or smooth embossed whilst others use an overlapped finish, since they are not required to run against a pulley. You would ideally want a belt with a flat finish on the back as over time it will wear thru the outer wrap on the'hump' and secondly is likely to cause the belt to flap a bit as the roller hits the bump. I checked 7 belts I had in the garage last night and 4 were cogged and had flat backs, but one has a bump or overlap outer join.
