Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

highmount help needed

For all things Electrical.

Moderator: -Scott-

Post Reply
Posts: 58
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 6:27 pm
Location: Melbourne

highmount help needed

Post by GQuick »

im hoping anyone can post a pic of their old 4 pin 8274 control box as the one i got is in bad shape ...dunno where any wiring goes, need to know where the solenoids wire together, control plug wires go and as stupid as it sounds, where 12v + and - go. it has the old can style solenoids and im lost :? any help would be appreciated. thanks :)
Posts: 49
Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:57 pm
Location: Perth

Post by Leeroy »

Mate I have no idea how to post pics and drawings, I can only describe this in words but I'll have a go, hope it makes sense.

Ok there should be a copper bus bar between the top left and bottom left, between the top right and bottom right, and in the middle between the two tops and another between the two bottoms.

The main battery power goes to the far left bus bar (ie outside of each left solenoids).

The armature wire goes to the bus bar on the far right (ie one of the two outside right terminals on rhs sols).

The big wire from F2 on the motor goes to the top centre bus bar (ie one of the inside terminals on the top two solenoids).

The big wire from F1 goes to lower centre bus bar (inside terminals bottom two solenoids).

Ok from memory the old solenoids like this earth themselves through their base mount on the solenoid plate, so make sure this has a good earth and is all cleans.

You need to connect the wires from the remote (white, green and brown if memory serves) to one of the small pins on each solenoid. If unsure which one you may have to use an alligator clip wire to check them and see which one makes the solenoid click (with other end of wire with clips on +ve battery).

Ok white is power, so goes on same solenoid post as you put main power feed on to, ie far left.

Green is IN circuit, and goes to pin on TOP LEFT and BOTTOM RIGHT solenoids, when operated this supplies power to F2, and connects armature to F1.

Brown is OUT circuit, and goes to pin on TOP RIGHT and BOTTOM LEFT solenoids. When operated this supplies power to F1 and connects armature to F2, reversing motor and winching out.

Whether winching in or out, you only operate two solenoids and a time, the diagonally oposite ones.

Main difference on the later ones is extra two wires in remote, red goes to earth and black goes to other pin on newer solenoids to earth them. This is so the remote powers AND earths the solenoids, to make it harder for knobjockeys to flatten your car via your towbar and a paperclip.

I hope that all made sense for you and helps out.


Oh PS, the main earth goes from the bolt in the motor (unless it's REALLY old) direct to battery earth, unless you have a colehersey type rotary manual dual battery seperator, in which case earth it to wherever you earthed the common (usually engine).
Posts: 292
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:32 pm
Location: New Zealand

Post by David_S »

Here's the diagram from the Warn manual

Image


And here is how to test motor with jumpers

Image

David
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest