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Gen 1 3.5L V6 conversion and TT build up
Moderator: -Scott-
ok then. mine now has an external fuel pump and fuel filter just right before the pump. thanks for the infos..scorpion 42 wrote: Its a High pressure pump and its in built in the tank, with a in tank fuel filter conbined into the pump and another fuel filter externally just forward of the nearside rear wheel on my one, because Iwan my one is right hand drive, regarding the pressure, why dont you PM NJV6, Im sure the lad wouldn't mind, as he's a real good guy and has a mine of info on these 3.5 trucks. Sorry I cant be of further assitance Mate.
guess i'll just drop the idea then.Spicoli wrote:Full hydro on IFS I would would be ridiculous. Probly just help tear up the front end some more. Ive seen some full hydro conversions on SAS'd monteros not stockers tho.
ok, tomorrow is going to be an important day as we're going to place the engine and gearbox for the best position, weld the mounts and make adjustments to the gearbox cross member or mounts. no dramas i hope..
today is a very tiring, back breaking long day. we managed to mount the engine and gearbox, install the radiator and check for clearance. the 3.5 mounts are not welded yet because we still need to install the front axle to check drivshaft length for front and rear. the engine sits quite high..i'm not sure i can put the black cover on. but below, from observation i think there won't be any clearance problem with the pinion to the sump. given the monstrous size of the engine and gearbox, i'm so surprised that the gear lever is at the exact location of the opening in the cabin! next, the gearbox cross member is also at the same location of the mounts on the chassis, except the bolt holes did not aligned. this already a big milestone for the conversion. a happy bunny..that's me. 
pictures will come later..
pictures will come later..
lol..nahh. ecu wiring loom is not in yet. today we continue to check for length and clearance and also working on the gearbox crossmember. i'm going to use the original gearbox crossmember and modify it a bit to accept the 3.5 gearbox rubber mounting. was also working on gear lever opening because the 4wd lever was originally on the driver's side (rhd) but the 3.5's was on the passenger's side. i had to cut further left and make custom cover from aluminum sheet. sorry i don't have the picture though..i'll get them soon. i'm blessed to have everything going pretty well so far. not too much customizing job needed.
more updates..
as of today, i still need to
1. modify the original gearbox cross member to add the 3.5's rubber mounting on it;
2. extend the torsion bar lever another 30mm;
3. fabricate leaf spring brackets on rear axle; and
4. modify engine crossmember for front axle rubber mounting.
the rest can be considered as minor works. i've completed modifying the gear lever opening in the cabin. here's before and after..
i've also done making hole for the gearbox wiring into the cabin.
as of today, i still need to
1. modify the original gearbox cross member to add the 3.5's rubber mounting on it;
2. extend the torsion bar lever another 30mm;
3. fabricate leaf spring brackets on rear axle; and
4. modify engine crossmember for front axle rubber mounting.
the rest can be considered as minor works. i've completed modifying the gear lever opening in the cabin. here's before and after..
i've also done making hole for the gearbox wiring into the cabin.
Gen 1 2.6 rear axle to later Gen 2 3.5 no axle ????
Hi iwan,
Just had a look at your last posting and it got me thinking about the rear diff ratio of the Gen 1 2.6 diff as against the later 3.5 Gen 2 rear diff, have you thought about this and wondered if they are the same, Iv'e a funny feeling that they aren't ?????
And I think that the half cut came without the rear axle, am I right ???? Or have you sourced one, since finding the front half cut ?????
Hope that this doesn't give you head aches, by me mentioning this.
Just had a look at your last posting and it got me thinking about the rear diff ratio of the Gen 1 2.6 diff as against the later 3.5 Gen 2 rear diff, have you thought about this and wondered if they are the same, Iv'e a funny feeling that they aren't ?????
And I think that the half cut came without the rear axle, am I right ???? Or have you sourced one, since finding the front half cut ?????
Hope that this doesn't give you head aches, by me mentioning this.
halhcut didn't come with the 3.5 axle but from tech database rear axle from 2.8tdi should be ok..so that's what i got. err..how can you tell what diff ratio in there? hope its not too late to ask this..
the axle diameter for 2.6 is 70mm but for the 2.8tdi/3.5 is 75mm. i thought of dismantling the rear leaf spring mounts but since difference of the diameter is big, i should be making new ones i guess. haven't trimmed the weld spots off the rear axle either..i'll work on that next tuesday.
i'm still waiting for parts to come in..
the axle diameter for 2.6 is 70mm but for the 2.8tdi/3.5 is 75mm. i thought of dismantling the rear leaf spring mounts but since difference of the diameter is big, i should be making new ones i guess. haven't trimmed the weld spots off the rear axle either..i'll work on that next tuesday.
i'm still waiting for parts to come in..
Its no problem what so ever, have a look at another 2.8 paj if you no longer have access to the one you took the rear axle out of, and look on the Vin plate, it will give you the ratio on that.iwan wrote:halhcut didn't come with the 3.5 axle but from tech database rear axle from 2.8tdi should be ok..so that's what i got. err..how can you tell what diff ratio in there? hope its not too late to ask this..
the axle diameter for 2.6 is 70mm but for the 2.8tdi/3.5 is 75mm. i thought of dismantling the rear leaf spring mounts but since difference of the diameter is big, i should be making new ones i guess. haven't trimmed the weld spots off the rear axle either..i'll work on that next tuesday.
i'm still waiting for parts to come in..
Plus this 2.8 would have had coil springs as the rear suspention, same as the 3.5, so is it really nessesary to have or want the leaf springs????
gearbox cross member
As I was saying about the gearbox cross member, if you decide to cut and re weld the 3.5 cross member, if it was me, then I would cut the difference out of it, in a diagonal cut then mig weld it for strength and take a grinder to it and smooth it out, give it a coat of paint and re asemble it, fit it up to the chassis and then you have all the strength you need to carry the weight of the gearbox and rear of the engine and not have to worry in future if its going to drop, while you are caining it in the off road situations.
another milestone today. cushions for the front axle brackets came in late evening today, so i put em up. it confirmed that we had position the engine perfectly because the curve at the sump clears the front diff very well. to add more to my joy today, the 3.5 engine crossmember bolted right up to chassis and matches bolt hole for the diff. however only 2 outer bolt holes on the engine crossmember need 5mm of machining. small matter..easy peasy. pictures later..
there's a regulation here that says you can't tamper with the chassis by any means. i've broken the rule by removing and relocating the engine mountings on the chassis. but if touched up properly i may get away with it during inspection as the may not notice it. but a coil conversion mate? i'm digging my own grave there..
the gearbox crossmember is currently at the machine shop. i'll post pictures of how i did it when it came back. i figured that was the easiest way to do it.
there's a regulation here that says you can't tamper with the chassis by any means. i've broken the rule by removing and relocating the engine mountings on the chassis. but if touched up properly i may get away with it during inspection as the may not notice it. but a coil conversion mate? i'm digging my own grave there..
the gearbox crossmember is currently at the machine shop. i'll post pictures of how i did it when it came back. i figured that was the easiest way to do it.
pictures update.
differential clears the sump.
3.5 gen 2 engine crossmember bolted to 2.6 gen 1 chassis.
bolt hole didn't aligned and need some machining.
this is the current and found to be the best location for the mounting in this conversion. could save alot of time for those who want to go this path. notice it was only spot welded and will be cured permanently when we pull out the engine later for minor checks and/or repairs.
differential clears the sump.
3.5 gen 2 engine crossmember bolted to 2.6 gen 1 chassis.
bolt hole didn't aligned and need some machining.
this is the current and found to be the best location for the mounting in this conversion. could save alot of time for those who want to go this path. notice it was only spot welded and will be cured permanently when we pull out the engine later for minor checks and/or repairs.
Did You?
iwan,
Did you by any chance make a note of the milage that was on the clock of the half cut???, when you had it as one piece. ???
The reason I am asking you this, is because you say that you are going to remove the engine again once you have it ALL lined up, so I thought I would remind you, to change the timing belts ETC before you put it back into the car, as they should be changed at 74, 000 miles or about 113, 000 kilometres and this way, saves any struggling at a later date, but of course its your choice.
What made me think of this, was seeing the last lot of photo,s and looking at the front of the sump, in the last one.
Anyhow, have a good day and keep up the good work. Jack.
Did you by any chance make a note of the milage that was on the clock of the half cut???, when you had it as one piece. ???
The reason I am asking you this, is because you say that you are going to remove the engine again once you have it ALL lined up, so I thought I would remind you, to change the timing belts ETC before you put it back into the car, as they should be changed at 74, 000 miles or about 113, 000 kilometres
and this way, saves any struggling at a later date, but of course its your choice.What made me think of this, was seeing the last lot of photo,s and looking at the front of the sump, in the last one.
Anyhow, have a good day and keep up the good work. Jack.
thanks for reminding me. really appreciate it. halfcut has done 157,000km..i've got a feeling that the timing belt has been replaced but i've already ask my mech to give a check on all important bits of the drivetrain. told him to change everything that has worn out..with my approval of course.
some updates for today. nothing much to work on today..was just tidying up the wiring inside the cab and under the dash and replacing the stock worn and hardened rubber hoses with blue silicone hoses. owh yes, the calipers were refurbished with new parts and will be painted gold later on. that was it for today.
some updates for today. nothing much to work on today..was just tidying up the wiring inside the cab and under the dash and replacing the stock worn and hardened rubber hoses with blue silicone hoses. owh yes, the calipers were refurbished with new parts and will be painted gold later on. that was it for today.
Given the issues I have had with 3.5 alternators of late, perhaps addressing the location of the alt now (if possible) would be an advantage.
I know others have had similar issues.
I know others have had similar issues.
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
See spicolis post ..iwan wrote:love_mud,love_mud wrote:Given the issues I have had with 3.5 alternators of late, perhaps addressing the location of the alt now (if possible) would be an advantage.
I know others have had similar issues.
what kind of issues are we talking here? kind to give a heads up?
They die a rapid death pulling 4000rpm through a boghole (or as my little boys calls them a with great enthusiasim a "mud pool" )
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
sure i'll replace it if it was long due.. okayy, so that may have cause it to die. i'll see what i can do to fix the problem.Spicoli wrote:Unless you can 100% confirm that the timing belt has been replaced recently, I'd do it.
When a 3.5 DOHC breaks a belt, it can get gory involving pistons and valves.
I have a feeling the problem with the alternator is that there down low and susceptible to lots of mud water and gunk getting in them.
still waiting for parts to come back from the machine shop. though front axle is assembled, the LCAs and UCAs are still pending because i'd like to make some room to weld the engine mounts permanently. only after i get the modified gearbox crossmember and had the gearbox mounting done, then only i can pull out the engine and get my mech to work on it. this waiting is killing me!! :evil:
anyway, i made myself useful by fabricating brackets for the engine oil cooler today. i have a spare oil cooler (1 or 2 row less) in my storage and decided to make a fluid cooler for the power steering system. big tires and heavier front-end should add more stress to the steering box and hopefully by cooling the fluid, all the rubber and bushings inside the power steering unit will hold a little more longer than it supposed to. i'll take pictures tomorrow.
all four brake discs skimmed and the calipers are refurbished. as for the torsion bars, i guess i'll just have to wait until the front suspension are put together. another thing, i've decided to use the stock gen 1 dashboard but the 3.5 meter cluster is out of the stock meter housing's dimensions. i'm going to fabricate the meter housing out of aluminum sheet and paint/wrap it up later.
that's it for today.
anyway, i made myself useful by fabricating brackets for the engine oil cooler today. i have a spare oil cooler (1 or 2 row less) in my storage and decided to make a fluid cooler for the power steering system. big tires and heavier front-end should add more stress to the steering box and hopefully by cooling the fluid, all the rubber and bushings inside the power steering unit will hold a little more longer than it supposed to. i'll take pictures tomorrow.
all four brake discs skimmed and the calipers are refurbished. as for the torsion bars, i guess i'll just have to wait until the front suspension are put together. another thing, i've decided to use the stock gen 1 dashboard but the 3.5 meter cluster is out of the stock meter housing's dimensions. i'm going to fabricate the meter housing out of aluminum sheet and paint/wrap it up later.
that's it for today.
brake calipers ???
Hi iwan,
are you useing the 3.5 discs and calipers that you have refurbished ? I hope so, because this thing will now take some stopping, once your on the open road and I dont really think that the old Gen1 discs and calipers would be much use or last very long, just thought I would ask !!!!
are you useing the 3.5 discs and calipers that you have refurbished ? I hope so, because this thing will now take some stopping, once your on the open road and I dont really think that the old Gen1 discs and calipers would be much use or last very long, just thought I would ask !!!!
Does it ???
Does it have A/C, iwan, because you were talking about the oil cooler, so I thought I would ask, as the A/C cooler is in the front behind the grill too.
oh yes..the entire brake system including the master brake cylinder and servo are from the 3.5. i just can't imagine yet what kind of improvement these brake can offer me but i really hope that it would worth the spending..
of course, i also fitted the condenser from the 3.5. it fill the entire opening just right but need a lil bit of hacking on the body to make it fit. i know where you are going with this question but i don't think the A/C temperature will be affected too much for the coolers to be in front of the A/C condenser.
of course, i also fitted the condenser from the 3.5. it fill the entire opening just right but need a lil bit of hacking on the body to make it fit. i know where you are going with this question but i don't think the A/C temperature will be affected too much for the coolers to be in front of the A/C condenser.
more updates.
i continue to work on the wiring under the dash and the steering column. i'm quite happy to say that the work under the dash is 95% complete. i'll move onto the body wiring next week and mate the existing wiring to the 3.5's. i also got the pics for the oil coolers and others.
left in the picture is engine oil cooler; right, power steering fluid cooler.
that is 3.5 steering column.
i'll have to make a new cover for the new meter. later...
i continue to work on the wiring under the dash and the steering column. i'm quite happy to say that the work under the dash is 95% complete. i'll move onto the body wiring next week and mate the existing wiring to the 3.5's. i also got the pics for the oil coolers and others.
left in the picture is engine oil cooler; right, power steering fluid cooler.
that is 3.5 steering column.
i'll have to make a new cover for the new meter. later...
Gen1 3.5L TT V6 TTbuild up
great job iwan, it looks like your getting there, keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing the full rebirth.
well..i have reach to a limit where my skills and knowledge can no longer be applied to the old pajee. it's up to my mech to continue working on mating the wiring for power windows, signals, tail lights etc and also running a check for the engine on what should be changed and/or repairs.
i worked on removing the leftovers from the brackets and coil seats off the new axle. my left hand knuckles were so bruised in result of 'runaway' hammer..
i forgot to take pictures of the axle. anyway, here's pictures from yesterday's and today's work.
engine bay; left hand side. i moved the windshield washer bottle to left and made new bracket for it. i did this because the wire for the motor is on the left hand side of the vehicle.
engine bay; right hand side. that is the radiator reserve tank sitting at the place where the windshield washer bottle was. i also made some mods to bolt the power steering reservoir next to the reserve tank.
this is the engine crossmember. note the machined area on the outer bolt..everything else bolts right away.
the 3.5 gear console cut to match the old dash. it's not fixed yet.. oh yes, i removed the floor carpet to get it washed and make my life easier to figure out the floor wiring.
i worked on removing the leftovers from the brackets and coil seats off the new axle. my left hand knuckles were so bruised in result of 'runaway' hammer..
i forgot to take pictures of the axle. anyway, here's pictures from yesterday's and today's work.engine bay; left hand side. i moved the windshield washer bottle to left and made new bracket for it. i did this because the wire for the motor is on the left hand side of the vehicle.
engine bay; right hand side. that is the radiator reserve tank sitting at the place where the windshield washer bottle was. i also made some mods to bolt the power steering reservoir next to the reserve tank.
this is the engine crossmember. note the machined area on the outer bolt..everything else bolts right away.
the 3.5 gear console cut to match the old dash. it's not fixed yet.. oh yes, i removed the floor carpet to get it washed and make my life easier to figure out the floor wiring.
more update!
the gearbox crossmember came back! this part has put all other major work on hold. and it came back exactly like what i imagined it supposed to be. i'll take pictures of it when it is bolted later. the hump on the original gearbox crossmember was removed and the 3.5 gearbox rubber mounting is placed on top of it. once painted, it should look very oem.
i left the workshop right before they pull the engine out. by end of day tomorrow, i would expect they had the engine mounting welded to the chassis. that's it for today.
the gearbox crossmember came back! this part has put all other major work on hold. and it came back exactly like what i imagined it supposed to be. i'll take pictures of it when it is bolted later. the hump on the original gearbox crossmember was removed and the 3.5 gearbox rubber mounting is placed on top of it. once painted, it should look very oem.
i left the workshop right before they pull the engine out. by end of day tomorrow, i would expect they had the engine mounting welded to the chassis. that's it for today.
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