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flexy leaf, trac bar systems
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
flexy leaf, trac bar systems
After reading the bible ( lot of pic missing ) and lots of searchs and reading again, I am still undecided on how to set up my anti warp set up on my lux?
The main problems I have are....
1. The geometry on making a ladder bar system that dosent limit flex, ( Don't tell me any ideas just facts and working pix / tech drawing )
2. Will the duel trac bar systems as shown by the guys in by "Diff Chatter.." really stop warp when I snap 2nd low @ 5G in a 4CLY turbo pet with simexs.
Once agian tech drawings on geometry or link to this type of info would be great
Thanx in advance CoXy
The main problems I have are....
1. The geometry on making a ladder bar system that dosent limit flex, ( Don't tell me any ideas just facts and working pix / tech drawing )
2. Will the duel trac bar systems as shown by the guys in by "Diff Chatter.." really stop warp when I snap 2nd low @ 5G in a 4CLY turbo pet with simexs.
Once agian tech drawings on geometry or link to this type of info would be great
Thanx in advance CoXy
PISSED AND BENT TOURS
87' Hilux tray
87' Hilux tray
I have a sierra, spring over with a 1.6L engine, 6:1 transfer gears, 5.125:1 diff gears and 34" swampers, I could trash a new set of springs on the way to the bush, having played with a few different styles of anti wrap bars (with varying levels of success) they all influence travel in one way or another, my solution is quite unique and also effective.
I have fitted bearing blocks in place of U bolts, the leaf springs are still fixed to the diff and collars either side of the bearings control lateral shift, rotation is controlled by a triangulated bar, two vertical points on the diff to one hanger at the transfer case uni.
While this is not intended to address squat/anti squat issues it has solved spring bending and binding issues 100%, I am very happy with the results.
Peter.
I have fitted bearing blocks in place of U bolts, the leaf springs are still fixed to the diff and collars either side of the bearings control lateral shift, rotation is controlled by a triangulated bar, two vertical points on the diff to one hanger at the transfer case uni.
While this is not intended to address squat/anti squat issues it has solved spring bending and binding issues 100%, I am very happy with the results.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
Have looked at this as well as the sup eng ladder bar to and like the shackle mount on the chassis end, and yes i think they would be easy to copy.. would like to see pic of others copies.This is the one snake racing sells, with the creeper joints it wouldn't limit flex, and imho is a fairly easy design to copy.
droopypete, Very interested in your set up got any pic? As i have read and think the same that some setups can just give the diff something else to twist around....
PISSED AND BENT TOURS
87' Hilux tray
87' Hilux tray
Pictures?droopypete wrote:I have a sierra, spring over with a 1.6L engine, 6:1 transfer gears, 5.125:1 diff gears and 34" swampers, I could trash a new set of springs on the way to the bush, having played with a few different styles of anti wrap bars (with varying levels of success) they all influence travel in one way or another, my solution is quite unique and also effective.
I have fitted bearing blocks in place of U bolts, the leaf springs are still fixed to the diff and collars either side of the bearings control lateral shift, rotation is controlled by a triangulated bar, two vertical points on the diff to one hanger at the transfer case uni.
While this is not intended to address squat/anti squat issues it has solved spring bending and binding issues 100%, I am very happy with the results.
Peter.
One that won't limit flex is one with a slip yoke joint.
You have it connected at 2 points upper and lower on the diff end, and a point or 2 points on the chassis/body end, Have one end slightly larger diameter than the other, put a few grease nipples in an have a slip joint that goes in and out and rotates sideways.
All the trackbar is for is to prevent the diff from rolling before the tires do, so as long as you have enough tube inside the other it'll prevent that perfectly .
You have it connected at 2 points upper and lower on the diff end, and a point or 2 points on the chassis/body end, Have one end slightly larger diameter than the other, put a few grease nipples in an have a slip joint that goes in and out and rotates sideways.
All the trackbar is for is to prevent the diff from rolling before the tires do, so as long as you have enough tube inside the other it'll prevent that perfectly .
Thats the way I was going to build mine, hope your right.craz3d wrote:One that won't limit flex is one with a slip yoke joint.
You have it connected at 2 points upper and lower on the diff end, and a point or 2 points on the chassis/body end, Have one end slightly larger diameter than the other, put a few grease nipples in an have a slip joint that goes in and out and rotates sideways.
All the trackbar is for is to prevent the diff from rolling before the tires do, so as long as you have enough tube inside the other it'll prevent that perfectly .
Wtb, 105 series rear tyre carrier, alloys and tyres.
They look really good but you have a lot of leafs on your truck did you get any warp before you put it on? ( or are you running some monster engine?)I built these a few years ago. We never had any bind with this style.
Jason
That Budbuilt site has some nice stuff on thanks mate
The Slip joint seams like a good simple set up.. Might pay for creeper joints or other to that effect tho
PISSED AND BENT TOURS
87' Hilux tray
87' Hilux tray
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