Air conditioning stop leak products work?

[mike_nofx]

Has anyone had any experience with air conditioning stop leak products? I'm doing a bit of research but it's hard to find any real info from people who have actually used the stuff.
Does it work?
How long does it last? If it lasts 3 years I'd be happy.

Here is one brand of stop leak: http://www.gwrauto.com/AC%20Stop%20Leak%201.htm

reason I ask is because I have a pin hole leak in my system, the evaporator I believe. I say pin hole as last time it was gassed it was cold for about 2 months, it's now about 3-4 months later and the ac is not cold, but cooler than outside air.

I will get quotes on a replacement, but I wouldn't expect much change from $1k. For this coin, I'd prob just stick to winding down the windows. Unless this stuff is ok!

I'm looking for real experience with these products, not interested in guesses.

Thanks!

[RaginRover]

Just reading their site now and came across this ...

" This professional product is not something you can buy at a local auto parts store, or take home for a simple installation. On the other hand, a mechanically inclined person could use the Super Stop Leak Plus if they are familiar with A/C repair and have the required tools necessary to test and install the product correctly. At the very minimum, you will need the oil injector tool used by shops for the last 30 years, to put refrigerant oil into A/C systems. Additionally, you should have a set of manifold gauges and a pump to pull the vacuum for testing leak down time. "

I think you would be better off to pull the evap unit out yourself and fit a new one then have the AC people regass your system, that would save you a lot of labour.

Tom

[chimpboy]

I think you would be better off to pull the evap unit out yourself and fit a new one then have the AC people regass your system, that would save you a lot of labour.

I agree... but also note that there are plenty of leak points around the evaporator as this is where the tx valve is usually connected and there is often a short extension piece as well.

What I am getting at is, if you "think" it's the evaporator but aren't sure you may be able to save a lot of money by getting the leak checked properly. It could just be an o-ring or something that's come loose.

I haven't used it and I know I am not meant to "guess", but I would not bother with the stop leak stuff as it is not that hard to repair the system. An evaporator is only worth a couple of hundred bucks new and it may not even be the evaporator anyway.

[thehanko]

I think you would be better off to pull the evap unit out yourself and fit a new one then have the AC people regass your system, that would save you a lot of labour.

I agree... but also note that there are plenty of leak points around the evaporator as this is where the tx valve is usually connected and there is often a short extension piece as well.

What I am getting at is, if you "think" it's the evaporator but aren't sure you may be able to save a lot of money by getting the leak checked properly. It could just be an o-ring or something that's come loose.

I haven't used it and I know I am not meant to "guess", but I would not bother with the stop leak stuff as it is not that hard to repair the system. An evaporator is only worth a couple of hundred bucks new and it may not even be the evaporator anyway.

i guess the appeal would be that if its not the avaporator it should fix it either way, but if it isnt the evaporator then your down a few hundy plus gas and no better off.

[chimpboy]

i guess the appeal would be that if its not the avaporator it should fix it either way

Yes, that's the dream that gets them their sales

[thehanko]

i guess the appeal would be that if its not the avaporator it should fix it either way

Yes, that's the dream that gets them their sales

[RaginRover]

In reality it is most likely to be a dried out o-ring and a lack of oil in the system.

You should probably buy a new set of o-rings for it and some oil, replace them all and lube them with the oil then get it gassed and get them to but a heap of oil in the system.

The oil will help seal up little baby holes and then you know if it is anything
other than a leaky seal

Tom

[mike_nofx]

I agree... but also note that there are plenty of leak points around the evaporator as this is where the tx valve is usually connected and there is often a short extension piece as well.

What I am getting at is, if you "think" it's the evaporator but aren't sure you may be able to save a lot of money by getting the leak checked properly. It could just be an o-ring or something that's come loose.

I haven't used it and I know I am not meant to "guess", but I would not bother with the stop leak stuff as it is not that hard to repair the system. An evaporator is only worth a couple of hundred bucks new and it may not even be the evaporator anyway.

I've had it checked "properly" by the pro's 3 times now.

About a year ago the AC Stopped working. I'll explain why ive lost faith in the AC repair shops in my area!

1st place i took it to told me it was a leaking hose connected to the compressor, reason being that the aluminium fitting on the end had wear marks from a cable rubbing it. Quoted $250 (or so) for a new hose. I decided to remove the hose myself, and i got it tested (through work) to see if the worn section had actually made a hole. The hose was fine, yes it was worn thinner, but not through, I had the aluminium professionally built back up. Hose was re-fitted (and 100% not the problem). So thats $250 that woulda been wasted.

When picking up the car (and before i knew the hose was still ok) I asked if there were any other leaks in the system and was told "nah we didnt fill it, we can see that hose is the problem" I wasnt happy with this response so didnt go back to this place. Mind you, my AC still had gas in it which they drained and prob re-sold.

2nd place i took it to told me they fully checked it out, and the compressor is stuffed and needs replacement. They sounded pretty confident so i purchased a brand new compressor ($500 or so) took it back to them to fit the compressor and gas the system.
I pick it up in the arvo and they tell me it has another leak, "we think its the evaporator, its about $750 to replace" this time they didnt sound so confident, and i did not want to keep replacing expensive parts till the problem eventually goes away! I want a definate answer.

No internal panels were removed, i believe they used a sniffer which detected a leak behind the dash, but cannot pinpoint it. So basically the leak is a $2 o-ring, or a $750 evaporator. But they cant tell me which one.

3rd place i take it to, I tell him my full story, about the 2 previous ac places. He actually laughs and comments how bad service that is.

Anyway, this guy held the system in a vacuum for a few hours and told me there was no pressure change. He then gasses the system with a dye. He confirmed there are no engine bay leaks, but tells me his "sniffer machine" isnt working so cant detect in-cabin leaks, but bring it back later.

I havent been back yet, its about 3 months later now. Im trying to decide wether its worth going back or not because i know there is an in-cabin leak, and his sniffer will probably confirm that. But still, it wont pinpoint it!

Im still going to bring it in to this guy, ill give him a chance, and ill just tell him if he detects a leak to actually remove panels and visibly see it.


So you can see how my patience is wearing a little thin. I just thought this stop leak might give me a couple years of working AC without too much trouble. I dont mind spending $100 to regas, plus the cost of the stop leak if i get at least 2 years trouble free.

By the way, its a 100 series cruiser, the evaporator is in a TNUC of a position!

Mike

[ferrit]

testing with a sniffer will take about 5 minutes and WILL diagnose a evap or TX valve leak- There arent any o-rings for pipes under the dash on a toyota- they are a fully welded unit from inlet to outlet under the dash (had mine in pieces on my floor doing the rebuild- Denso units dont really change other than size)

[jp63]

if you can take the hose of you can take an evaporator out it pritty easy the two bolts on the firewall for the hoses and few 10mm bolts on the in side and the box comes out in its own section you can have a look like ferrit said there is not many o'rings in there it is more than likey in them than the evaporator you will tell be an oiley mark on it. if its been gased a couple of time you should be able to seen something by eye by now. from my experiance the stop leak products dont work they only tend to cause more problems. they are made to seal leaks the compressors front seal will always leak a little so it finds that which hardens it and causes it to leak more

[rock hopper]

i use super seal pro 940kit

http://www.ferret.com.au/c/GO-Distribut ... on-n672575

http://www.stokesap.com.au/downloads/Su ... ochure.pdf
http://www.stokes-aus.com.au/StokesAP/M ... ctions.pdf

[mgundle]

ive found when diagnosing a/c leaks the best way is to use a/c dye
the 3rd place you took it to should of asked you to return with in a week so they could shine the uv light on to the evapourater drain hose in the engine bay to see if there is any hint of a green tinge
i believe that $700 is a resonable price for this repair. you must understand its not a five minute job to get to the evapourater most cases dash boards have to be removed.
as for the first two places well are they mechanical workshops or auto electrical places with plenty of a/c experience?
ive found with the stop leak products they will only slow the leak not fix it.
a/c systems are under high pressures at alternating temperatures so to introduce something into the system that will be able to guarantee a seal i cannot see how it can be a long term fix.

[-Scott-]

ive found when diagnosing a/c leaks the best way is to use a/c dye
the 3rd place you took it to should of asked you to return with in a week so they could shine the uv light on to the evapourater drain hose in the engine bay to see if there is any hint of a green tinge

I bought a car, and the a/c failed within weeks. Took it to a recommended, reputable aircon specialist, they couldn't find a fault, but replaced the dryer, re-gassed (with a shot of dye) and sent me on my way.

12 months later, a/c no longer cold, so I took it back to the same place. Couldn't find a leak, just re-gassed it d(with more oil and more dye) and told me "it's not unusual". Told me a story about compressor shafts being difficult to seal, and a replacement compressor won't necessarily fix the problem.

I didn't bother to explain that my Sigma a/c still works fine about 6 years after it's last service, and I reckon the Pajero a/c hasn't been touched in almost 9 years. After all, they know this stuff better than I do.

[mgundle]

12 months later, a/c no longer cold, so I took it back to the same place. Couldn't find a leak, just re-gassed it d(with more oil and more dye) and told me "it's not unusual".

Did you take the car back there within two weeks of the initial regas to see if there was any indication of a leak? if you had taken it back any more than a month later unless its a obvious leak you have no hope of finding it due to dust,water,grease,grime etc building up on surfaces making it difficult to see what has had uv dye on it an what hasn't.

Best thing is to clean every thing so it is completly clean even if i spend half an hour pressure washing under the bonnet and behind the bumper.
Even if the a/c is still working after a week its best to call past your repairer so they can have a quick look with the light. better to find the leak whilst every thing is clean instead of waiting till its empty and having to recharge the system and recharge yourself.