60 Series axle stud upgrade

[80UTE]

The tapered collet and stud is by far the best method as the stud locks into the hub and the collet make a solid connection between the axle flange and the plane section on the stud. With a bolted connection there is always clearance in the bolt holes so you can assemble the thing. With and axle flange the bolts are working in shear so with a gasket betreen the flange and the hub would allow some movement the dowels are doing most of the work. Ive been breaking axle studs for 20 years and went the bolt sytem but when the 100 series came out with the 10 mm studs i got my self a set studs and collets had a propper cutter made up by tool maker and having been doing the same conversion ever since. Toyota have a big R&D engineering team and if the 8 mm studs were aceptable why do the change to 10mm as they made the studs bigger, the dowels bigger and increased the P.C.D of the studs from 90.0mm to 92.00mm also use the best method to secure the axle as it is conciderbly more costly to have a stud, collet and machine the taper in the axle than to use a bolt and drill a hole . This would have been driven by the factory engines getting more poweful and to ensure reliability. A std Cruiser with Std Engine and Std Tyres don't have axle stud problems. You change something and the weaker points will be found.

Wally

[crankycruiser]

I wouldnt bother doing the conversion this way. You would be better off drilling the hub out and tap it to 3/8UNF and then throw away the cone washers. Buy some Grade 12 Cap head bolts and bolt the axles up with these. Dont worry about washers under the bolts just check them before you go wheeling every time. You wont break these bolts and its easy to remove the axles when they break. Cruiser axles are weak in any case. Once you fix the breaking studs problem they then break the axle off right behind the axle flange. The axles are Induction hardened from factory the induction hardening finishes at the flange and does not include the flange so they break at this point.

I have just fitted a 80series rear diff to my buggy but will be running Custom Chromolly Axles which are splined at both ends and have had custom drive flanges made with 12 7/16th bolt holes. I will be running all 12 7/16th UNF Cap head screws. Hopefully the pinion will hold up

this is wat i did the the front of my 80, and so far so good. but i only have used 8mm high tensil at the mo cause i jsut twanted tot see how it would go...

if i ever break a rear axel with my 10mm studs i will use the cap head bolts in the rear,, much easier to do,...


back on subject.. sorry mate cant help ya with where to get one of those bits.. we made our own on the lathe...

[grub_80]

I used 3/8 unc bolts with and machined new taper collets to suit 80 series taper and a 3/8" drill to slightly enlarge the hole on the flange. If you don't use collets the bolts have a tendancy to loosen over time.

Dave

[Tiny]

I used M10 8.8 hex head bolts where the OE 8mm studs were, and also added 3 x 10mm dowels

[Dozoor]

Looks like this has been done inside out BUT , Ive just started on a sort of build and is there a mod for these that retains the standard axle
as far as needing to replace an axle with stock when your away ,
For instance would a high grade m8 cap in place of all and using the standard cone
be a touch stronger ?

Im talking a little ignorant here i havn't even opened the things up yet
but if there is a gasket behind the axle , causes some grief with compression just o ring the hub side then its metal to metal .

Just wondering

[brighty]

Looks like this has been done inside out BUT , Ive just started on a sort of build and is there a mod for these that retains the standard axle
as far as needing to replace an axle with stock when your away ,
For instance would a high grade m8 cap in place of all and using the standard cone
be a touch stronger ?

Im talking a little ignorant here i havn't even opened the things up yet
but if there is a gasket behind the axle , causes some grief with compression just o ring the hub side then its metal to metal .

Just wondering

Dozoor,

I guess what you are after is quite sufficient if it's just a weekend wheeler and for ease of replacement. I guess if you take the old studs out and replace them with the M8 cap head bolts it would slightly strengthen it given the fact that they are new and the old studs are 20+yrs old. But I fuigured that all factory studs would be of high tensile grade anyway... just the age and wear n tear that would have weakened them.

I personally would go for the upgrade to 10mm cap head bolts and redrill the axle flange to suit. Some guys aren't bothering with the cone washers as it doesn't really leave much meat on the axle flange, maybe use a high tensile spring washer instead and make sure when you redrill the axle flange that the hole is a nice snug fit... any play in it and it will have some movement when giving it a boot full... trust me, I sheared the old ones off and bodged it up with some strapping tape to hold the axle in all the way home from Newy... just drove home with the rear locker engaged.

for your cap head bolts, go and see Brett at Gosford Nuts N Bolts just off Showground Rd near the greyhound track... he'll help ya out with what you need. They're not open Saturdays though... just so you know.

Cheers,
Brighty.

[known 2]

I've suffered alot from breaking wheel studs.
so a frined of mine gave me the idea of putting more in, we drilled out six extra holes in between the existing studs and presed in 6 high tensile 8mm dowls.

so rather than 6 bolts holding hub on there is now 12.
i have pics if anyone wants to see.

[joel HJ60]

I've suffered alot from breaking wheel studs.
so a frined of mine gave me the idea of putting more in, we drilled out six extra holes in between the existing studs and presed in 6 high tensile 8mm dowls.

so rather than 6 bolts holding hub on there is now 12.
i have pics if anyone wants to see.

Pics please

[1MadEngineer]

OK there are heaps of different ways around the problem, how about actually fixing it once and for all!!

remove the std studs, clean out the threads with a M8 bottoming tap, buy a full set of m8 x 45mm grade12 SHCS(socket head cap screws) drill a 2mm diameter holed through the heads, install with std cone locks and hightensile washers and springs. Then the trick is to tiewire into groups of 3 once installed. This stops them ever coming loose and breaking which is why the std studs fail!!!

simple old school engineering!!
you will not break this if done properly! the axles will snap but the bolts will not fail!!

[Matt_88]

i dont quite understand? any pics.. i realli need this done as my 45 is sitting in back yard with one axle. what do you mean by drill a 2mm hole and tire wire?

[known 2]

ok i'll put some pics up tomorow. only the veiw from the outside i have.

[bj on roids]

The tapered collet and stud is by far the best method as the stud locks into the hub and the collet make a solid connection between the axle flange and the plane section on the stud. With a bolted connection there is always clearance in the bolt holes so you can assemble the thing. With and axle flange the bolts are working in shear so with a gasket betreen the flange and the hub would allow some movement the dowels are doing most of the work. Ive been breaking axle studs for 20 years and went the bolt sytem but when the 100 series came out with the 10 mm studs i got my self a set studs and collets had a propper cutter made up by tool maker and having been doing the same conversion ever since. Toyota have a big R&D engineering team and if the 8 mm studs were aceptable why do the change to 10mm as they made the studs bigger, the dowels bigger and increased the P.C.D of the studs from 90.0mm to 92.00mm also use the best method to secure the axle as it is conciderbly more costly to have a stud, collet and machine the taper in the axle than to use a bolt and drill a hole . This would have been driven by the factory engines getting more poweful and to ensure reliability. A std Cruiser with Std Engine and Std Tyres don't have axle stud problems. You change something and the weaker points will be found.

Wally

the junk weighs another 1000-1500kilos more than when that axle was designed too, the LX470 and peers are well over 3000kilos

[bj on roids]

I never EVER had a problem with the standard ones, but i only ever ran low horsepower and little wheels

I think people have bent housings and poor maintenance schedules (i.e. dont check the studs) and as a result they snap

[Red04VXE]

ok i'll put some pics up tomorow. only the veiw from the outside i have.

Where's the pics.



Thinking of upgrading mine while fixing the axle.
My Main concern is the dowels, the six dowel looks like the go and I like the look of the bolts idea.

[Z()LTAN]

Here is a good writeup on this dowel subject guys!

http://outlaws4x4.com/?page_id=266/toyo ... onversion/