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"Broken" Vitara tailgate handle solution

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Posts: 223
Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2003 5:10 pm
Location: NW Sydney, NSW

"Broken" Vitara tailgate handle solution

Post by Impulsive »

Hi all,

I thought I'd better make a contribution as I just had a win with my Vitara tailgate handle which I thought I would have to replace, and I'm sure many Vitara owners have experienced what was happening to me.

Not one to be beaten, I thought I'd remove the handle and see what was actually broken, and see if it was repairable or able to be braced before going ahead and ordering a replacement (even though they can be bought for $28 + postage on ebay).

I'm glad I did, because the fault was very simpy fixed, and didn't cost me a cent.

Many (most) Vitara owners are familiar with the tailgate handle lifting up, and feeling really weak, then not doing much.

To remove the handle, its just a matter of taking the inner tailgate panel off, and then removing the three 10mm bolts that hold it to the door. You will also need to pop the pushrod that goes to the lock mechanism out of the handle actuator. The handle will then practically fall out.

When I removed my handle, I found that the pin which the handle pivots on had come loose and slid out of its proper position.

The lever which operates the lock pushrod is in two parts:
The outer section (a kind of square tube) is part of the actual handle that you hold onto on the outside of the door.
There is then an inner, solid part that slides into the square tube of the handle. This solid bit is the part that your lock pushrod attaches to.

The solid inner part is held inside the square tube bit by the hinge pin passing through it. When this hinge pin dislodges itself and slides out, it allows the inner & outer parts to separate, thus partially or wholly disabling the handle.

If you were to keep yanking on it in this state, it would be very easy to break the square tube section, as its only plastic at the end of the day.

Whilst the solution to this problem is to simply re-assemble the lever/hinge pin, the pin is only held in place by the fact that it has a spline at one end that is supposed to grip on the plastic stands it slides through. I put a fairly substantial dob of Araldite on this spline to ensure that it doesn't slide out easily anymore.

You will also most likely need to re-hang the handle return spring onto its little supports so that the handle has tension on it again instead of flopping around. This will be pretty obvious when you're looking at it all, as the spring will just be hanging in the breeze with the supports at each end of it.

Whilst I had it all apart, I took the opportunity to silicon spray the lock parts.

My handle was then re-installed and feels better than new. It operates really well again now.
1998 Vitara Hard Top 2.0 EFI
65mm springs (by Allsprings)
35mm body lift
Rancho RS9000's
235's on 15in alloys
Flipped strut mounts
User avatar
Guy
Posts: 10366
Joined: Thu Dec 12, 2002 8:43 am
Location: Wangaratta

Re: "Broken" Vitara tailgate handle solution

Post by Guy »

Impulsive wrote:Hi all,

I thought I'd better make a contribution as I just had a win with my Vitara tailgate handle which I thought I would have to replace, and I'm sure many Vitara owners have experienced what was happening to me.

Not one to be beaten, I thought I'd remove the handle and see what was actually broken, and see if it was repairable or able to be braced before going ahead and ordering a replacement (even though they can be bought for $28 + postage on ebay).

I'm glad I did, because the fault was very simpy fixed, and didn't cost me a cent.

Many (most) Vitara owners are familiar with the tailgate handle lifting up, and feeling really weak, then not doing much.

To remove the handle, its just a matter of taking the inner tailgate panel off, and then removing the three 10mm bolts that hold it to the door. You will also need to pop the pushrod that goes to the lock mechanism out of the handle actuator. The handle will then practically fall out.

When I removed my handle, I found that the pin which the handle pivots on had come loose and slid out of its proper position.

The lever which operates the lock pushrod is in two parts:
The outer section (a kind of square tube) is part of the actual handle that you hold onto on the outside of the door.
There is then an inner, solid part that slides into the square tube of the handle. This solid bit is the part that your lock pushrod attaches to.

The solid inner part is held inside the square tube bit by the hinge pin passing through it. When this hinge pin dislodges itself and slides out, it allows the inner & outer parts to separate, thus partially or wholly disabling the handle.

If you were to keep yanking on it in this state, it would be very easy to break the square tube section, as its only plastic at the end of the day.

Whilst the solution to this problem is to simply re-assemble the lever/hinge pin, the pin is only held in place by the fact that it has a spline at one end that is supposed to grip on the plastic stands it slides through. I put a fairly substantial dob of Araldite on this spline to ensure that it doesn't slide out easily anymore.

You will also most likely need to re-hang the handle return spring onto its little supports so that the handle has tension on it again instead of flopping around. This will be pretty obvious when you're looking at it all, as the spring will just be hanging in the breeze with the supports at each end of it.

Whilst I had it all apart, I took the opportunity to silicon spray the lock parts.

My handle was then re-installed and feels better than new. It operates really well again now.
Great write up.
I would have used one of the teflon or graphite based sprays as they dry and leave a non sticky lubricant behind ..

Something like this
http://www.ubcbike.com/store/product/11 ... NT--4-oz-/
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Posts: 4825
Joined: Sun May 04, 2003 6:33 pm
Location: Berwick vic

Post by droopypete »

There are also some realy good motorbike chain lubes on the market these days, from super sticky grease to dry wax, well worth a look.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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Location: north ipswich QLD

Post by dka_offroad »

just like to say thanks for the write up just made me get off my arse and go fix the handle and save myself $30+ :D
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2007 5:46 pm
Location: Syd

Post by 6thgear »

i was fortunate to not have any probs with my handle, but i had actually changed it over to the older one because i relocated my license plate so needs the handle with plate lights...

nice write up mate, nice to know its easily fixable!
FS: Vitara Rancho RS9000 extended shocks, headlights, VDO GPS/DVD Unit
Posts: 223
Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2003 5:10 pm
Location: NW Sydney, NSW

Vitara rear door handle fix

Post by Impulsive »

dka_offroad wrote:just like to say thanks for the write up just made me get off my arse and go fix the handle and save myself $30+ :D
haha... Thanks fella, and its good to hear you had a favourable result.

Glad you guys like the piece.

Now...anyone wanna buy it? The rear door handle works awesomely...lol
1998 Vitara Hard Top 2.0 EFI
65mm springs (by Allsprings)
35mm body lift
Rancho RS9000's
235's on 15in alloys
Flipped strut mounts
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:09 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by FoolInjected »

I've got a 97 2.0L hardtop. When my rear handle broke, it was the square box section that split open which then didn't make the arm move far enough to open the door. I just had a look at the old handle, the pin is out of place and I don't know where the inner arm is (I maybe didn't get a new one with the new handle), so I can't remember if I pulled the pin out or not (it was a couple of years ago).


On a side note, Impulsive, your signature says you have 15" alloys on your car - how did they fit over the front brakes? My 16's have about 5mm gap between the inner wheel and the brake calipers (mine are factory stock brakes and 15's definitely don't fit over them..)
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