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G'day all. I am relatively new to the Toyota section of this forum, but I have some questions that I would apprieciate some advice on.
Scenario:Back in 1986, my grandfather bought a brand new 60 with auto box and a 12HT engine. Grandpop passed away last year and I have his 60 sitting in my driveway (leaking oil ). For the past few years, it hasn't been driven regularly and therefore isn't in the best condition. The rust is ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE up around the gutters and in the doors, etc. If it were to go for roadworthy (to change ownership- deceased estate) it would never pass.
I want to buy a 60 and fit the 12HT and the auto box (which would both be cleaned up and serviced whilst removed) to a much better body. The thing is, alot of the 60's for sale are petrol. I found some petrol 60's in great condition and very reasonably priced too.
My mechanic friend said that he wasn't sure if the wiring in the petrol and diesel 60's is the same? Are the diff ratios different? What else do I need to know? Is it a simple removal of petrol components and fitting of diesel parts?
Any help would be apprieciated as my grandfather was very special to me and I would like this car to be special as well!
You might be better off to look at it as swapping the good body onto the diesel 60, rather than the diesel motor into a good chassis, thats assuming the diesel chassis isn't full of rust. It could be ok as it is normally the body that gets gutted. check the crossmember at the rear where the rear shocks mount to get a good idea, as that is usually the first place the chassis rusts out.
The worst part about being told you have Alzheimer's, is that it doesn't just happen once.
Thanks for the advice, I did check the rear crossmember (my 4wd is sagging to the point that I almost don't fit underneath it). The chassis doesn't look that bad, but I don't think that I have the equipment or the space to do such a job. How big a job is it as opposed to swapping the engine and gearbox over?
diff ratios are the same
but you will have to swap the entire under bonnet wiring harness. it has a plug at the fire wall so its not too hard
i think the gearbox crossmember is different too
only other thing is the tacho/dash will need to be changed for the diesel one
im 99% sure im correct but im happy to be corrected
flyology wrote:yes, gearbox cross member is different between manual and auto, but I am pretty sure they is no plug on the firewall for the wiring harness.
i tnought it was just inside the cabin??? but i dont have a 60 anymore to check
different chassis for the auto to the manual too, the auto cross member mounts to brackets already attached to the auto chassis, on a horizontal plane (if you get my drift). Whilst the manual cross member attaches between the chassis (to the vertical faces of the chassis rails).
Basically meaning a bit of work to swap about, either way, not to mention different steering column support for clutch assembly, different floor cutout for shifters, and even different starter wiring for neutral safety switch. Then you still have the reverse lights to sort out.
Basically it is a head ache to swap it all over being auto to manual, then to throw in diesel to petrol, try and source something from exact specification,although this always going to seem the most costly road. How bad is the rust, have you had someone handy enough with the mig to check it out? Roofs arent too hard to chop, until it gets right through the pillars, then it just takes a bit more expertise.
I have done the Auto to manual conversion, it's not that hard. The chassis have minimal differences , just the auto version has ears welded on for the auto cross member (mine are still on and dont cause any problems).
When I converted mine the fuel lines are even bent in the correct place to accept the manual cross member even thought it was a factory auto...
wiring is not that hard to do, if and when you do let me know or someone on here, there is plenty that will help.
What might work If the chassis is not rusted out, is just getting a good body, and transferring everything else over. Would take time, but you would have a good cruiser after you finish, and if you buy a complete car you will have bits a pieces to sell to get some cash back.
My 60 series rebuild....
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic103004.php&highlight=
hmmmm,i was going to buy a 12ht 60 series with a seized donk,body was in great nick,no rust in gutters,but i ended up seizing my 2h,and got a v8 60 series extra cab ute,so pulled out of the deal,not sure if they still have it,but if your interested i could give u there details
4x4joel4x4 wrote:this could all be solved by getting a 40 series, now thats livin
But its not a solution the OP would want or asked about
just messing with ya fellas its all good relax, i think 60's are frikken awsome, if it was my 60 i would buy a good body take the origonal body off clean up the chassis, then drop the good body on and get your mech to wire the old girl up, have you checked were the oil is leaking from?
WHAT DID THE MAN AT THE BEACH SAY TO MICHEAL JACKSON?
Its really up to you and what you feel comfortable doing. the 5 speed will get better fuel economy, but the auto will be easier and more fun to drive. From previous experience, anything that requires body work will take time and, it is very very hard to find a 60 with no rust in it.
The other option, and maybe keeping closer family ties to your grandfather, is to bite the bullet, take the truck to an old school panel beater and have it fixed, but when he wants to work on it. no mess in your yard, no work to do, but will cost you some money..... there are good old school panel beaters out there that can fix anything, its just a matter of finding one.
How about posting some pics of the truck and the rust that needs repairing??
My 60 series rebuild....
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic103004.php&highlight=
). For the past few years, it hasn't been driven regularly and therefore isn't in the best condition. The rust is ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE up around the gutters and in the doors, etc. If it were to go for roadworthy (to change ownership- deceased estate) it would never pass.
