Any difference in filteration between oiled air filters?

[Kitika]

Yes I know that oiled filters don't filter as well as paper ones but I don't have the space to fit a good sized paper filter that'll flow enough air. (the powercore paper filters look the goods but are too expensive)

So my question is, is there any difference between the cheapo cotton gauze filters from supercheap and ebay compared to the K&N's filtration wise?
How do foam filters like the unifilter compare to the K&N for ease cleaning and can any generic filter oil be used on either?
I will be using a prefilter on the top of the snorkel (oiled type for now will probably get a cyclonic type for extensive dirt road travel) and i'll be either making an extra skin for the outside of the pod.
Cheers for any insight.

[ISUZUROVER]

Nobody can give you an answer to this, as nobody has done a test. Other than the BS "I can't see dust in my inlet ducting"

However, if it was me, I would run a foam filter over a "cotton gauze" filter. I haven't tested them back-back, however I suspect the foam to be sliightly less crap from my experience.

That said though, how much would an engine rebuild cost compared to a powercore??? MANN+HUMMEL also make a competiitor to the powercore, called the "compact plus" - which may be cheaper.

I am sure there is some way you could fit a decent filter...

[-Scott-]

If you're going paper filter, make it a quality one.

The most common paper filter for my Pajero (sold in SuperCheap / AutoBarn etc) doesn't filter too well - after one day I had dust on the "clean" side of the filter.

[Kitika]

I've had the same experience with cheap paper filters ESPECIALLY auto 1 inhouse brand ones. A mate had one on his 253 HQ for about a week and it let an absolutely huge amount of dust through some of which (alot!) was caught on an oily spot on top of the carb. Turfed that pretty quick!

That said though, how much would an engine rebuild cost compared to a powercore??? MANN+HUMMEL also make a competiitor to the powercore, called the "compact plus" - which may be cheaper.

But how long do these last in a really dusty environment until you have to replace them again? Surely they can't take up that much dust and they don't look like they'd take to well to being blown out or let that much dust out if tapped a few times on the side of the road but i'm hoping you've had experience
Ls1's wouldn't be expensive to rebuild compared to the big dino diesels but I do want to prevent an early one if I can.
I did have a look at the BA/BF falcon paper pod filter thing and they are worth about $60 but the paper material didn't look to crash hot and not to easy make an airbox around either.[/code]

[GRPABT1]

From my experience (I've got a uni in my zook and K&N in my commodore) and from my research/word of mouth, foam filters like the Uni Filters filter better for offroad purposes and K&N style cotten filters flow better but do let more crap in. Most dirt bike racers I know all use uni filters too.

[ISUZUROVER]

But how long do these last in a really dusty environment until you have to replace them again?

If you have a snorkel with a cyclonic pre-cleaner head you could get 100k km between filter changes.

[chunks]

Gonna have to get a pre cleaner for my gu, the filter gets filthy in 5000km with the standard snorkel head.

[ISUZUROVER]

Gonna have to get a pre cleaner for my gu, the filter gets filthy in 5000km with the standard snorkel head.

Just because the filter looks "filthy" doesn't mean it needs to be changed.

It is best to fit one of these:


Shown as number 8 here:


to tell you when to replace your filter. They cost $5-$10.

Replacing your filter too frequently costs $$$ AND means you have dirtier air getting to your engine. Air filters work better the dirtier they get.

However - cyclonic pre-cleaners are a good idea and will reduce the MASS getting to your filter by 60-90% - with a corresponding increase in filter lifespan.

[cj]

It is best to fit one of these:

Where do you get them from?

[big lux]

It is best to fit one of these:

Where do you get them from?

You can get same sorta thing from most truck/ plant parts places,

[beinthemud]

If your going in a group most test of seem to suggest good quality paper filters are better but you should change them after each trip seems to work well.
I use K&N and love it they do flow more air and filter more but some would argue let more small particles in but maintance ie clean them after each trip (so basic maintenance) works well for me

[chunks]

Just because the filter looks "filthy" doesn't mean it needs to be changed.

Its a force of habit for me, if a filter is dirty I have to change it, and getting filters at cost price doesn't make it too painful.

[beinthemud]

Just because the filter looks "filthy" doesn't mean it needs to be changed.

Its a force of habit for me, if a filter is dirty I have to change it, and getting filters at cost price doesn't make it too painful.

Agree with you on that

[Struth]

The oiled filter will clog a lot sooner than an unoiled filter, the crud it collects mixes with the oil and forms a greasy residue. This makes a noticeable difference in engine performance.

So they need to be cleaned and reoiled monthly or immediately after/during long dusty trips that go into days of duration.

Similar to the need to shake out a paper filter to avoid this performance loss, only more time consuming and messy.

This is mine after after 7 days of touring on sand and in some pretty sever convoy dust on certain days.





And it may be BS but there has never been any noticeable dust in my inlet tubes while running this filter.

I use it on an EFI 304 feeding thorugh a 4" snorkel just to get enough air into the engine.

Cheers

[ISUZUROVER]

Just because the filter looks "filthy" doesn't mean it needs to be changed.

Its a force of habit for me, if a filter is dirty I have to change it, and getting filters at cost price doesn't make it too painful.

You are doing your engine more harm than good by changing your air filter too frequently.

And it may be BS but there has never been any noticeable dust in my inlet tubes while running this filter.

The particles which are most likely to make it through your filter are, for the same reason, least likely to collect on your ductwork.


Anyone who runs a KottoN gauze filter (or foam filter) and drives offroad, I urge you to do oil analysis. I suspect you will find elevated silica levels.

[shlacks]

myself working on a large amount of patrols be it city, mines or general 4wd conditions we find that the vehicals that come in complaining of hesitation or lack of power have MAF sensor codes and have a layer of dust over the sensor 95% of the time the vehicals with this have paper aftermarket filters in them and have let the dust through maybe 3% of the time we might find a totally blocked genuine filter in it causing the problem but most cars we keep with a genuine oil impregnated paper filter (fitted foam seal side down) in newer patrols running MAF sensors and changed when needed we dont get this issue. Also note that we have tried cleaning the sensors just with blowing off the air with water with solvent and non solvent cleaners with elecrical cleaners and so far have not got one to work again like a new one. As for cleanable filters i have only word of mouth to go by and thats to use finer filter or uni filter and not k&n and to also clean let dry completely then cover with the oil and let soak in for atleat 24hours as to not have oil particals suck through and go all over the MAF senor if u have one, i guess the best way would be to run 2 cleanable filters and just interchange so u dont have 2 full days going without a vehical on the road.

i dont claim to know everything about filters and will more then happly take more advise but im just stating findings over a fair few years of patrol experiance.

[Kitika]

So what filter is the easiest to clean/shortest amount of time to clean and reoil? I was thinking of a largish K&N with a foam pre filter outer skin to offer the best of both worlds. As I don't think unifilter pods come with the second skin and could be hard to make one to fit and don't come in the larger sizes.

[PCRman]

Don't know if it helps, is really relevant or you have already seen it but I've always found this to be a fascinating read;

http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

at the risk of quoting out of context I found this to be the most startling result

Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt.

If you run oiled I guess be prepared to clean it 2-3x more often that you would a good paper filter and accept that it will let more dust through.

[Struth]

So what filter is the easiest to clean/shortest amount of time to clean and reoil? I was thinking of a largish K&N with a foam pre filter outer skin to offer the best of both worlds. As I don't think unifilter pods come with the second skin and could be hard to make one to fit and don't come in the larger sizes.

Uni filters have the sock, just check their website, but it sort of defeats the purpose of the unifilter, which is sometimes simply to decrease resistance to airflow into the engine.

Cheers