hilux/ commy v6 fuel economy

[mental1]

thinking of doing the commy v6 swap on my 84 hilux after the 2l shit itself on the f3 yesterday. i was getting around the 800 km mark a tank. got 32" tires guessing standard gearing. what sort of km a tank are people getting. and where is a good place to get the marks adaptor for the th700 to hilux transfer

[taps]

thinking of doing the commy v6 swap on my 84 hilux after the 2l shit itself on the f3 yesterday. i was getting around the 800 km mark a tank. got 32" tires guessing standard gearing. what sort of km a tank are people getting. and where is a good place to get the marks adaptor for the th700 to hilux transfer

You can honestly, and this is from personal experience, be expecting to get 300 - 350 km out of a tank !!!!
The best place to get the marks adaptor and all of the accesories for the conversion are from Marks Adaptors check em out on line

taps

[Turbo Tonka]

i am also toying with a conversion atm too mate but a few people put me off with fuel figures.Then others seem to have acceptable fuel bills with the v6.

800ks to a tank,what size tank is that?but as said it would be upsetting to halve it

[mental1]

70 something litres its great i love the economy cost me bugger all to drive to work and round town but once you hit the highway km to fuel usage comes down a bit

[HUSSLN]

search cos theres a thread on this end of last year. I just sold my v6 hilux and got a 45 with a 350 chev. Its not much more to go a v8 i would re consider your options.

[Wooks]

I've got one of the commie 3.8 conversions and it gets about 300k's to the tank at the moment, but it's running rich. 450-500 is do-able. I'd like to know where 800k's range came from though.

I have mates with 308 V8 landies and they get about 300-350k's to a tank as well. So a 350 chev could prove quite thirsty, still an awesome engine though.

There are some 4runners out there with the 4.7lt lexus V8 in them which might be worth a look

[phat-customs]

There are some 4runners out there with the 4.7lt lexus V8 in them which might be worth a look

Go the Lexus... Keep it in the familly, Cheap as Chips to buy, strong as an Ox. Much more advanced than a dirty old commo motor.

Ull have to run programble management, but at least ull be able to get a tune to suit ur applicaion.

[mental1]

im putting the commy motor in all you have said i can do with a commy motor there cheaper then the lexus and i can buy a whole car for fuk all why would i spend all the extra money to have to pay fuk loads more when shit breaks

[berad]

Because you need to deal with shitboxx como motors overheating , and always knowing you saved about 500 bucks only to pay for it in time to come in fuel, maintenance,lottttsssss less torque, less power and last but not last you have an inferior motor for a 500 saving, 500 is a drop in the ocean of a 4x4 being modified/upgraded.

Curious, what more would break on a 1uz than a como motor....

But as the saying goes, each to their own

Good luck

[mental1]

just wondering then whats a computer or lets just say a front cut for a lexus worth box adaptors and all other thing that is needed

[berad]

between 1000-1500, for the whole front cut and 1/3 of the k's to an average como.

Whats a vn cost?, sure you can pick one up for $200, they also have 300,000+ k's probably have not been serviced very often

Adaptors are null and void as you need adaptors for the como motor, i would make my mounts anyway, ends up where you want the motor positioned, adaptors come up 2nd hand for both motors every now and then.


How were you getting 800k's to a 70 litre tank, thats under 10litres to a 100, thats better than most small 1.6l efi petrol cars, And if it blew up the motor chances are fuel economy would not have been brand new. The 2L with 32s would be getting driven near flat out on the highway to maintain 100.

[berad]

There are some 4runners out there with the 4.7lt lexus V8 in them which might be worth a look

Go the Lexus... Keep it in the familly, Cheap as Chips to buy, strong as an Ox. Much more advanced than a dirty old commo motor.

Ull have to run programble management, but at least ull be able to get a tune to suit ur applicaion.

Why would you have to run programmable management?, if you have to use it for the 1uz, you'd have to use it for the 3.8.

[misko83]

Hey I have a 1986 bundi that I want to rid of it has a vs v6 with all the marks kit in it... If your keen pm me

[Turbo Tonka]

on this again,with going a 1uz i once was pretty keen on a dual cab for sale with one in it.now i dont know how much of a meathead the bloke was or how badly tuned or setup the motor was but he spoke of 20lph best up the highway and 35lph average around town on 33s

But that can come down to alot of things,i think the 1uz would be a sweet engine with more power than youd ever need.

[mental1]

yeah ok been looking at a few sites cheapest front cut i found for a lexus was $2000, and upwards of $3000 not to mention adaptors for the transfer case and all the other bits so close to probably more then $3500 best case scenario. why, when i would do it for less then half that and still have plenty of grunt. 20L/100km 300-350km a tank seems quiet steep. thats if there running the 70 ltr tank. for the price of the front cut i could buy 5 commys and have plenty of parts. not to mention there easy to work on and easy to program. so heres to your lexus idea

[phat-customs]

Why would you have to run programmable management?, if you have to use it for the 1uz, you'd have to use it for the 3.8.

The lexus ECU uses data from the ABS setup to calculate road speed and control the auto box (which 99% of them are) therefore using the stocko ECU in a vehicle with out the correct abs inputs and the other eleventy-hundred sensors and doo-dads will put the ECU into limp-mode and thus returning crappy economy and drivability .

A little shopping can net a 1UZ for like 800 too 1000 bucks (thats bare motor) theres really no benefit in gettin the whole front cut save for Radiator and ancileries.

And like i said before the commo motors arent really technical masterpeices, there a reasonably basic EFI setup on the earlier ones anyway and U can prob get away with running the stock ECU, however, maybe this is why everone gets such shit-house MPG's from their commy-motord lux's etc.

Think about it...

The motor is a Lexus/Soarer 4 litre quad cam V8 from a 1990 japanese crown. Stock it puts out 195 Kw (about 200 rwhp). It weighs 100kg less than a standard chev/holden V8 and 10kg less than the current alloy dinosaur Gen 3. What it loses in capacity it makes up for in technology. The beauty of these motors is that you can pick up a front cut (front of car cutoff just behind the gearbox with an oxy) for about $1800 from jap importers. It has 4 cams (Gen3 holden's have one), 6 bolt mains (Tough chevs have 4, standard motors have 2) and a 70mm throttle body (you hotup a warm holden V8 by fitting a 65mm one!).

[berad]

yeah ok been looking at a few sites cheapest front cut i found for a lexus was $2000, and upwards of $3000 not to mention adaptors for the transfer case and all the other bits so close to probably more then $3500 best case scenario. why, when i would do it for less then half that and still have plenty of grunt. 20L/100km 300-350km a tank seems quiet steep. thats if there running the 70 ltr tank. for the price of the front cut i could buy 5 commys and have plenty of parts. not to mention there easy to work on and easy to program. so heres to your lexus idea

Why are you programming the como ecu, as far as i know its not as simple as plugging in a laptop and changing all the maps.

I agree to a point the como motor is easier to work on, but you shouldnt need to work on a stock motor anyway, nor should you need spare parts haha

Front cuts or motor and loom's come up cheaper than that, you just need to get off the couch and look

Let me know how much it costs all up to put the como motor in haha.

either or theyll both be an upgrade.

Good luck

[berad]

Why would you have to run programmable management?, if you have to use it for the 1uz, you'd have to use it for the 3.8.

The lexus ECU uses data from the ABS setup to calculate road speed and control the auto box (which 99% of them are) therefore using the stocko ECU in a vehicle with out the correct abs inputs and the other eleventy-hundred sensors and doo-dads will put the ECU into limp-mode and thus returning crappy economy and drivability .

A little shopping can net a 1UZ for like 800 too 1000 bucks (thats bare motor) theres really no benefit in gettin the whole front cut save for Radiator and ancileries.

And like i said before the commo motors arent really technical masterpeices, there a reasonably basic EFI setup on the earlier ones anyway and U can prob get away with running the stock ECU, however, maybe this is why everone gets such shit-house MPG's from their commy-motord lux's etc.

Think about it...

The motor is a Lexus/Soarer 4 litre quad cam V8 from a 1990 japanese crown. Stock it puts out 195 Kw (about 200 rwhp). It weighs 100kg less than a standard chev/holden V8 and 10kg less than the current alloy dinosaur Gen 3. What it loses in capacity it makes up for in technology. The beauty of these motors is that you can pick up a front cut (front of car cutoff just behind the gearbox with an oxy) for about $1800 from jap importers. It has 4 cams (Gen3 holden's have one), 6 bolt mains (Tough chevs have 4, standard motors have 2) and a 70mm throttle body (you hotup a warm holden V8 by fitting a 65mm one!).

I disagree, that is why the internet is half full of wrong info.

Have you done this conversion to know that it doesn't work, i know for a fact it does work.

And early crown ecu's had a seperate ecu to control the auto so that gets rid of the ecu throwing codes.

It would need a pretty serious code to throw it into limp mode, and the ecu can be tricked not to do it. or using hall effect sensors that mount to the cable speed mount on the box.

It is all about the model you select, as to how simple the wiring is.....

[phat-customs]

and the ecu can be tricked not to do it. or using hall effect sensors that mount to the cable speed mount on the box.

Why not just do it properly in the first place... A decent aftermarket ecu isnt really that expensive... theres going to be alot more buggerising around in "getting" or MAKING the standard computer work. Just seems like a bit of a "Band-Aid" approach. Especially when U can get a base map to suit this engine from most ECU manufacturers.

[berad]

and the ecu can be tricked not to do it. or using hall effect sensors that mount to the cable speed mount on the box.

Why not just do it properly in the first place... A decent aftermarket ecu isnt really that expensive... theres going to be alot more buggerising around in "getting" or MAKING the standard computer work. Just seems like a bit of a "Band-Aid" approach. Especially when U can get a base map to suit this engine from most ECU manufacturers.

You have to find a happy medium between doing it "properly" and doing it to a suited budget, a n/a 1uz is not proper IMO i would twin turbo it haha but most would disagree.

Selecting the right std motor/ecu, and it will just work.

I wouldn't class it as a bandaid, its not dodgy, but yes i can see why some would class it as that, IMO theres less bugggerising around with soughting the motors error codes out, especially when most won't even effect how the motor runs, how is an aftermarket ecu not expensive, especially if you cant wire it your self, a basemap is far from adequate for fuel economy, smoothness, cold starts etc etc.

If you can walk away with change from $2000 to supply and install, your going good.

As mental1 would put it , you can buy 10 vns for that haha

[Turbo Tonka]

well phat customs is the auto elec so i see his point in that he could wire up after market ECU's to make it work etc but rob????would you really spend the money and be honest now

So how new of a v6 motor can you go before all the sensors and wierd and wonderfuls come into play?

[-Nemesis-]

There's so much heresay and chinese whispers here it's a tribute to the internet lol.....


My stock 1UZ (no 'programmable ecu, stock ECU) on 33's used to get about 12l/100km on the highway, up to about 15 around town.

At the end of the day no conversion is cheap, double what you guess.

If you want a genuinely indestructable motor, power, performance, chub inducing sound and better than average economy, go the 1UZ, but be prepared to pay. I don't believe anyone on the net claiming uber cheap 1UZ conversions, it doesn't happen.

If you want cheap harsh power (can still be fun to drive), ongoing niggly reliability problems and not the best economy go the oldschool V6 and save a few $ initially.

[phat-customs]

As mental1 would put it Razz, you can buy 10 vns for that haha

I think there was an vn/vp motor in the FS section for like 170 bucks the other day lol.

[Wooks]

would try to avoid those,

unless you have some kind of fetish for fixing overheat issues...

[mental1]

i asked for 2 things, how many km to a tank people are getting and where to get the adaptors. Not your bloody opinions of what i SHOULD be or shouldnt be putting in my bloody car. for those people that cant sort there heating problems, hahahahahaha

[ManHyperSS]

lol, i am gunna watch this spot, i have a supercharged VT V6 and 4L60e auto setup in a surf

ps its for sale with a few small issues that buying a patrol overcome :-) will let it go for $6.5g cash, cost me 10, then i lifted, bull bar, cd player, new tyres, rear bar with wheel carrier, dual batterys and solinoid, petrol/gas, prob more that i have forgoten

[mental1]

ok picked up a v6 vp commodore today with a reco box new water pump low km moter with worked heads whole car $285.

[mental1]

picked up secong hand marks adaptor for transfercase engine mounts 4 core radiator twin thermo fans $1000

started pulling the commy apart today lets see how it all goes

[phat-customs]

Can I suggest, and im only going from past experieince here. If u use the commo auto, which i assume U are going to do, RUN A BIG FTRUCK OFF TRANSMISSION COOLER!!!
Its interesting to note, that when a factory "tow pack"is fitted to VN - VT commos, included is a nice big trans cooler to deal with the extra load of the trailer on the auto box. so U can imagine what the weight of a hilux or any car for that matter would do to the standard trans with the factory cooler (which is in the radiator FYI)

Also, use the commo radiator or similar, i wouldnt be using V8 radators or the stocko hilux ones, not that there not a good radiator, its just that the commo motor is DESIGNED to work with the commo radiator, right head pressures, capacity, and flow characteristics - seems to reason to me when keeping thigs cool is the name of the game.

If its done properly theres really no reason why it wont keep cool, all the horro stories U hear of people no being able to drive them anywhere as they over heat must be caused by something so simple as the engine works fine in its donor car.

Also, I would realy recomend runnning an aftermarket temp gauge just so U can see ACTUALLY how hot its getting, its very reassuring to see a number figure (in degrees) rather than just somewhere in the realms of H--to--C... Lets face it, factory gauges have a fair bit of hysterisis built into them.

Good luck on the conversion!!!

[mental1]

i think the reason most people have these over heating probs is an airflow issue, 1 they put a larger motor in which really need more airflow 2 the remove the standard bumper and put a front bar on custom or not they restrict the airflow ie winch arb bar or what ever there aint really much air flow there to start with 3 then they wack a big set of spot lights right in front of the small amount of air flow they have left ie grill. really what do they expect.

got enough gauges to keep an eye on nearly everything trans temp water temp oil preasure and temp amp metre. i got a massive aftermarket oil cooler

commy motor came out today removed the auto, was fun pulling the bugger apart with no instructions not to hard though. new output shaft is inbox is back together adaptor is on all waiting for my next day off