rear 3link/aframe setup sways to much

[HUSSLN]

my fj 45 runs an A frame rear setup with a 60s diff. im told there 6 inch gq equivalent coils, there just king springs though and no sway bar, front is still SUA on a 60s diff as well and i run 38inch creepy crawlers.. Really its turning right it really leans to the left even with only me in the car freaks the passenger out a bit the first time lol. Performs well were its meant to but makes it a little hairy to drive on road.

[B.D.R]

Put Sway bars back on

I was told i would need to put Sway bars back on when the new Suspension goes in, and if they are setup correctly, they should'nt limit Flex, but will make it a better Car all round

[NICK]

coils mounted to close together or the shocks/coils are to soft

[HUSSLN]

I snapped these maybe they be give a better idea. Ill happily put a sway bar on just dont know where to start

[Braudy]

I be thinking the coils are a little too close together.

[Z()LTAN]

those springs are inboarded alot! that would make it sway pretty good.

Maby some stiffer shocks as those are inverted pretty extreme

[nzdarin]

The more you compress the suspension the less the shocks work so as it leans in a corner the shocks will provide less dampening.
You need to get the shocks more upright so they work correctly and also the wider the spring the better it will corner.
When cornering the wheel rate is calculated taking into account the distance the spring is to the wheel. So if the load compresses both springs (ie curb etc) then the spring rate is the wheel rate. If load is on one wheel (eg cornering) then the distance the spring is from the wheel has a big effect.
So to get the wheel rate right for cornering in your setup you will need a spring rate that will be really hard going in a straight line.
Fitting a big sway bar will help solve the problem BUT it is a bandaid to a problem and not a solution.

[OIIIO]

The easiest solution would be to move the upper shock mounts.
Being a tray, it should be a simple job.

The coils are pretty close together, but a bit more work involved in moving them.

Fitting a sway bar should be pretty simple to. Fit a standard sway bar with some extended links off the chassis. You won't loose any flex, but will gain heaps of stability and less squatting of the rear suspension on take off........

[1MadEngineer]

Fit a standard sway bar ................. and less squatting of the rear suspension on take off........

so how does a sway bar affect Anti-squat? or do you have a 'special' way of mounting it?

[joeblow]

why do people continue to mount shocks in this stupid way?

as has been said, move shocks to a better angle first.

[OIIIO]

Fit a standard sway bar ................. and less squatting of the rear suspension on take off........

so how does a sway bar affect Anti-squat? or do you have a 'special' way of mounting it?

Perhaps I should have written that in another way.. But I'm a dumb arse and not an engineer.......

It obviously can't change anti squat, because anyone with half a brain can work that out.

But, with a tri-link/4 link there will be some torque steer and a sway bar will stop the initial "lean, squat, coil compression" or what ever you want to call it, when accelerating from a stand still.

hope that clears it up for you

[HUSSLN]

Alright thanks, ill suss out the shocks straight away. I was a little worried the springs were to close together but cos it was only leaning like bad one side i thought it wasn the whole problem.

[SuperiorEngineering]

I think even with the shocks in a more correct position, a sway bar fitted i think to make a good handling vehicle you will still need to bring those coils out as they are way to close for a full bodied truck, if moving the coils is not a option fit a much stiffer coil after doing the other bits first.

[craz3d]

Lower it.. a lot. That should fix it.

[HUSSLN]

Lower it.. a lot. That should fix it.

Thanks heaps for that input. Put alot of thought and years of experience into that answer.

Moving the coils is an option, getting it right is the aim so ill do what needs to be done.

[Fathillbilly]

Move coils, but they look like they are right up next to the chassis rail so that might be a problem.

Sway bar would help but you might just be trying to resolve a symptom and not fix the problem.

Changing the angle of the shock won’t do jack in this set up, there are bigger problems.

A frames and badly set up 4 links and 3 links with panard rods, will result in this style of handling

Drop in and we could look at your options if you like

Stu

[Ruffy]

Move coils, but they look like they are right up next to the chassis rail so that might be a problem.

Sway bar would help but you might just be trying to resolve a symptom and not fix the problem.

Changing the angle of the shock won’t do jack in this set up, there are bigger problems.

A frames and badly set up 4 links and 3 links with panard rods, will result in this style of handling

Drop in and we could look at your options if you like

Stu

I've looked at this thread a few times and been thinking of what to say...
You said it well Stu..

Drop in and see him!! You do have bigger problems than what most replies will fix.

[HUSSLN]

thanks mate, im in baysie north ill try an bring her in next week sometime for a chat. Whats the address?

[v840]

Move coils, but they look like they are right up next to the chassis rail so that might be a problem.

If you move the coils to directly under the chassis, or a bit further if you can get away with the tyre not rubbing under compression, and piss off those blocks they're sitting on, I reckon you'd retain close to the same height and get back a fair bit of lateral stability.

[Auto-Craft]

Probably the easiest solution will be fit coil overs, mount them out on the diff as far as possible, and select the correct spring rate.

Use a sway bar, GQ rears are generally easy to fit as a generic type, get the links the right length, in the right spot, and it should work with up to 12" stroke shocks.

The pic makes it difficult to see the geometry of the A Frame set up, vs the lower arms, but the lower arms are for thier length, on a fair angle altering the squat of the rear.

On a personal note, its probably also 3"to high to handle any good with all of the above.

[Fathillbilly]

our factorys at 12-21 Power Rd Bayswater

See you then

[HUSSLN]

it is tall, its a long term project if i get to a competing stage in a few years ill piss the guards off an raise the tray up to fit the big rubber. Looking forward to hearing what fathillbilly has to say and get some direction on the whole thing.

[uninformed]

if you want to move the coils outward have a look at a landrover defender and see how they mount the rear coils outside the chassis rails.

[B.D.R]

Hussln, you wont be disapointed if you give it to Stu

[HUSSLN]

Hussln, you wont be disapointed if you give it to Stu

Im just amazed the joint that built it have there stickers plastered all over the car.

[chimpboy]

Hussln, you wont be disapointed if you give it to Stu

Im just amazed the joint that built it have there stickers plastered all over the car.

I assumed it was a backyard job.

[HUSSLN]

it resembles one, guess thats why the leaf mounts are still there. The rest of the car is well built, engine conversion the full re wire is all top notch. guess the fridge was full when the rear end came up for mods.

[Guy]

it resembles one, guess thats why the leaf mounts are still there. The rest of the car is well built, engine conversion the full re wire is all top notch. guess the fridge was full when the rear end came up for mods.

Or they were after a bit of a "ramp queen" . I imagine the rear flexs up like a slinky.

[HUSSLN]

that it does, its a thought for sure.