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landcruiser 2h diesel blowing black smoke
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
landcruiser 2h diesel blowing black smoke
hi i just bought a hj75 ute, the 2h diesel blowing black smoke as soon as it gets any load on it eg going up a hill etc. it starts and idles fine just no good when loaded up, any ideas about what it could be?
crappy injectors or over fueling. back the fuel off and see if it helps, or if you not sure what your doing go and get an injector service/tune.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
It depends how much black smoke you deem as to much as to what could be wrong, if anything is wrong at all.
If you put your foot down in a diesel it will put the given fuel into the motor, black smoke is fuel, black smoke under load is quiet normal to a certain extent.
If your travelling in 4th lugging it along and put your foot down it will p!ss out black smoke (black smoke is unburnt diesel, for eg, your putting your foot down 100% and trying to put in alot more fuel than the motor can burn at "X" RPM.)
Putting the throttle down a little extra at a time instead of putting the throttle through firewall when the motor loads up, should solve the problem.
If you put your foot down in a diesel it will put the given fuel into the motor, black smoke is fuel, black smoke under load is quiet normal to a certain extent.
If your travelling in 4th lugging it along and put your foot down it will p!ss out black smoke (black smoke is unburnt diesel, for eg, your putting your foot down 100% and trying to put in alot more fuel than the motor can burn at "X" RPM.)
Putting the throttle down a little extra at a time instead of putting the throttle through firewall when the motor loads up, should solve the problem.
BBP Offroad
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
Boondall Backyard Performance
They call me the MR. throw cash at shiz til its comp specccccc
My last ride was a 2H powered 75 series ute, which I turboed (and then some). When I bought it,(unmodified), you could load that thing up all you like and the only time it would puff black smoke was when you stab the throttle then it would immediately go clear again.
It could be a number of things,
Check your air filter,
Check your intake hose is not collapsing on acceleration,
Check your exhaust is not damaged (squashed or bent)
If all are ok then check these few things,
There should be two vacuum lines that run down from the throttle body to the top rear of the fuel pump, check that they are not hard, brittle and possibly leaking.
Where the rearmost line goes to the fuel pump, that is a housing that contains a diaphragm, this is your accelerator diaphagm. If it has a hole or cut in it or is visibly worn out, replace it. Also sometimes oil can get in there and give a false vacuum reading too. It will drain out when you open it to look at the diaphagm anyway.
Generally this problem will raise it's head as a high idle, running on between gear changes and be difficult to switch off in the severest cases.
If all of the above are ok it would seem that someone has wound the fuel up, probably hunting for horsepower that the engine simply does not have, as the engine can only inhale so much air.
Here goes..
On the back of the fuel pump at the top, there is the lever that is actuated by the EDIC motor (the thing that shuts off the engine). If you look at lever, there is a screw (about 10mm dia) that this rests against (but only when the engine loads up). At the back of the screw is a round lock screw that should have a twisted wire through it and crimped with a stamped lead crimp fitting. If this wire is gone, it's a dead give away that it been molested.
Try to gently unlock the nut with a punch if you don't have a suitable tool, I made one to fit.
Here's the important bit, turn the screw IN (clockwise) for less fuel and OUT (aniclockwise) for more, Important to remember, DO THIS IN 1/4 TURNS AT A TIME!!! and remember to lock the lock nut back up each time too.
Keep a note of how far you have turned it in case you need to return it to the original point at which you started.
Hope that is of some help
Rowen
PS. Turboing is easy on these engines but I found it a little tricky to tune for highway running as the engine would hunt, mainly due to the fact there was no wastegate in the set up. To tune these properly they really need a boost compensation device and they are quite dear to buy. I am at the moment toying with another non wastegated 2H turbo, using check valves and flow restrictors in the vacuum lines so as to not require one. I will post when I get it sorted.
It could be a number of things,
Check your air filter,
Check your intake hose is not collapsing on acceleration,
Check your exhaust is not damaged (squashed or bent)
If all are ok then check these few things,
There should be two vacuum lines that run down from the throttle body to the top rear of the fuel pump, check that they are not hard, brittle and possibly leaking.
Where the rearmost line goes to the fuel pump, that is a housing that contains a diaphragm, this is your accelerator diaphagm. If it has a hole or cut in it or is visibly worn out, replace it. Also sometimes oil can get in there and give a false vacuum reading too. It will drain out when you open it to look at the diaphagm anyway.
Generally this problem will raise it's head as a high idle, running on between gear changes and be difficult to switch off in the severest cases.
If all of the above are ok it would seem that someone has wound the fuel up, probably hunting for horsepower that the engine simply does not have, as the engine can only inhale so much air.
Here goes..
On the back of the fuel pump at the top, there is the lever that is actuated by the EDIC motor (the thing that shuts off the engine). If you look at lever, there is a screw (about 10mm dia) that this rests against (but only when the engine loads up). At the back of the screw is a round lock screw that should have a twisted wire through it and crimped with a stamped lead crimp fitting. If this wire is gone, it's a dead give away that it been molested.
Try to gently unlock the nut with a punch if you don't have a suitable tool, I made one to fit.
Here's the important bit, turn the screw IN (clockwise) for less fuel and OUT (aniclockwise) for more, Important to remember, DO THIS IN 1/4 TURNS AT A TIME!!! and remember to lock the lock nut back up each time too.
Keep a note of how far you have turned it in case you need to return it to the original point at which you started.
Hope that is of some help
Rowen
PS. Turboing is easy on these engines but I found it a little tricky to tune for highway running as the engine would hunt, mainly due to the fact there was no wastegate in the set up. To tune these properly they really need a boost compensation device and they are quite dear to buy. I am at the moment toying with another non wastegated 2H turbo, using check valves and flow restrictors in the vacuum lines so as to not require one. I will post when I get it sorted.
Don't take life too seriously...it isn't permanent.
2h
at full revs and under load a diesel engine should only blow a hint of soot
seirra, ute chop, air locked 60 series diffs, 4-link rear, 3 link front, 35's,18" fox air shoxs, h.i.d's, 6hp high mount,
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