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Limiting rear up travel.

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

Posts: 5256
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:49 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Struth »

tim75b wrote:i can attest to a rear sway bar forcing the front to work better i fitted mine up with disconnects so i could disconnect it off road but it works a whole lot better off road with the rear bar connected

Image

Image

these are both with swaybar connected
That is sweet and just sold me on fitting a full time sway bar.

Love the way the vehicle is actually following the rear in those pic and the 3 link front is flexing well.

Cheers
Posts: 5256
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:49 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Struth »

gu town wrote:i just re-read my post. i worded it wrong i think. i wasn't suggesting superflex arms. i was suggesting that the people who have those arms were re-installing their rear swaybar to "force" the front to work like you are trying to acheive..
Yes I misunderstood what you meant.

Cheers
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Location: adelaide

Post by tim75b »

i also have a superior flex arm for standard height and drop boxes just for reference sake but the swaybar made it all work properly for my car
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Post by zookimal »

Struth,

100% agree with Steve and Tim. Rear sway bar to increase rear roll stiffness to bring it closer to even with the front.
-Mal

Zook 1, 2, 3 gone
Patrol - Wheels, engine and stuff
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Post by ausyota »

I recently just fitted a Currie Antirock swaybar to the rear of my Lux truggy.
I was having the same problem as you as my front is still leaf and the rear is airshocks so the front is a fair bit stiffer than the rear.
The cab would follow the front diff and the rear susp would do all the flexing.
After fitting the sway bar it has lost very little travel and has got a lot more stability and even flex.
Image

Image
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Post by rumpig89 »

tim75b wrote:i can attest to a rear sway bar forcing the front to work better i fitted mine up with disconnects so i could disconnect it off road but it works a whole lot better off road with the rear bar connected

Image

Image

these are both with swaybar connected
so seeing as you dont remove your disconnects, the same could be achieved by replacing the swaybar dropper bits with droppers that are longer? (the size of lift longer??)

this right? looks like it works good!
Yom
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Location: Brisbane

Post by Yom »

Another one here for the rear swaybar. I left the rear on my GQ wagon and it definitely forced the front to work more and the vehicle remained much more stable as a result.

Just a small note as its something I have discovered but be weary about how you mount the swaybar. Make sure it cannot invert itself with the suspension travel.
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Location: adelaide

Post by tim75b »

so seeing as you dont remove your disconnects, the same could be achieved by replacing the swaybar dropper bits with droppers that are longer? (the size of lift longer??)

this right? looks like it works good![/quote]

yeah you could have fixed mounts i had already made the disconnects to suit my lift so i wont be changing them unless i break one as i never intended to inflict the type of load on them that i am now :twisted:
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Location: perth

Post by troopymad »

i have much the same prob with my 78series
the leaves in the rear flex heaps more than the front coils (even with the airbags in the rear) and being a troopy on a slope the rear thats higher unloads heaps and sends the cars body close to hitting the trees
so i fitted the rear swaybar back on and the problem halved

i was also thinking of using my airbags in the rear to help by adjusting them from inside the cab (i already have the tanks a valves ready to go)
dosent anyone think this would be a good idea?
there can be up to 3inches difference between each side
for the love of troopys
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