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Diff Tightening on a 94-80series Rear LSD, HOW

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Diff Tightening on a 94-80series Rear LSD, HOW

Post by balltera »

I've got an 94model 80 series and I'm getting a front lokka but can't afford a rear as well, just wondering how to tighten up the rear LSD if possible. Ive heard they rely on spring pressure, so maybe if i get a spacer made up to compress the spring, this might tighten it up????? yes/no Any ideas, HELP.
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Post by dumbdunce »

you can shim it up with a washer but it won't make a huge difference - it will grip harder for the first 1000km or so then it will be pretty much like it was before.


if you have diff building skillz, ignore this bit to the ****

if you are still keen on the idea then you will need a dial gauge and magnetic base to measure and re-set backlash, a pin wrench to re-set carrier bearing preload and backlash, a spring scale and string to measure carrier bearing preload, and I don't remember if on the 80 series LSD you need to remove the crownwheel to adjust the spring preload but if you do, you will need a hot water/oil bath or oven to warm the ring gear to re-fit it, a torque wrench to reinstall the crownwheel bolts, a suitable vice to mount the whole diff assembly in to work on it, and a clean bench to work on.

put match marks on one carrier retainer cap and the housing - they are not interchangeable. use string and spring scale to measure bearing preload then use dial gauge to measure backlash. record these numbers for reassembly. remove the two adjuster nut locks (8mm bolts, 12mm heads) and remove the locks, then back off the carrier retainer bolts a turn or two to release the adjuster nuts, then back off the djuster nuts a half turn then you should be able to lift the carrier/crownwheel assembly out after removing the carrier retainer bolts. do not mix up the bearing cups and retainers and adjuster nuts.

remove the crownwheel if you need to. or leave it on if you don't need to take it off.

******
open the LSD and find a suitable spacer/washer to bias it up. 1 - 2 mm is probably all it will need.

put it all back together. use the numbers you recorded before disassembly to ensure the backlash and preload are correct. both are adjusted by the side bearing adjusters.

whack it back in with a new gasket and see how she goes.
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