The RN46 on 35s Quiz

[Struth]

Trying to help a guy put a single cab RN46 on 35s.

Body lift 2" seems easy enough, but does the steering column need to be modified to suit the nw angle?

Will 3" spring lift do the job and will the tyres hit the inner guard behind the wheel, it almost seems as though the axle should be moved forward.

Is it better to cut the guards and avoid un necessary spring lift?


Cheers

[Frankenyota]

I have RUF which give about 3" of lift and 30mm body lift, and that gives heaps of room for 35" tyres.

Matt

[Struth]

I have RUF which give about 3" of lift and 30mm body lift, and that gives heaps of room for 35" tyres.

Matt

Thanks Matt, does the RUF move the axle forward?

Cheers

[Frankenyota]

Springs will push the diff 2" forward.
I have also moved the front dropped hanger 1" forward aswell, this gives a nice shackle angle.
I think you can also use a boomerang shackle?

Matt

[hi_luxmad]

this has been covered plenty of times before.

2 inch body lift and 2'' extended shackles will give you more than enough clearance to run 35s with none to minimal scrubbing on full flex

[Struth]

this has been covered plenty of times before.

2 inch body lift and 2'' extended shackles will give you more than enough clearance to run 35s with none to minimal scrubbing on full flex

I have never had the need to work out how to do this before so have not read previous threads on it.

It looks to me from seeing the vehicle in question that 35s would scrub seriously on the inner guard behind the front wheels.

Will 2" body and 2" shackle extension avoid this scrubbing?

Cheers

[Matt_85Lux]

this has been covered plenty of times before.

2 inch body lift and 2'' extended shackles will give you more than enough clearance to run 35s with none to minimal scrubbing on full flex

I have never had the need to work out how to do this before so have not read previous threads on it.

It looks to me from seeing the vehicle in question that 35s would scrub seriously on the inner guard behind the front wheels.

Will 2" body and 2" shackle extension avoid this scrubbing?

Cheers

A mate has 2" BL and 2" shackles and the front guards had to be cut as the 35s were rubbing, prollie wouldn't have to cut with "small" 35s or worn ones. All the ones I've seen that don't rub have had the front diff moved foward though.

You could do 2" BL and 2" shackles and limit the up travel that may work aswell but wouldn't be the way i would do it if it was me

[Struth]

^^^ Thanks that is the sort of info I am chasing.

Cheers

[thehanko]

^^^ Thanks that is the sort of info I am chasing.

Cheers

just puttin int extended shakles will give you terrible shakle angle and rough ride. ruf works well with extended shakles, std length springs do not work well with extended shakles.

limiting uptravel is dissappointing when your trying to improve the vehicle, 1 step forward 1 step back kind of thing.

RUF has a different pin location and as such moves the diff forward 35mm, it also lifts the front end 50mm.

without doing ruf you can simply re drill the perch 25mm back (1 side already has it there it just needs to be larger). cut and shorten the torque rod and keep your flex as well.

I would do a 2 inch body and shift the diff myself. cheap, gives the extra clearance to run the bigger tyres both above and to the rear of the arch and doesnt lift the entire vehicle weight up.

can all be done in an afternoon.

[Matt_85Lux]

^^^ Thanks that is the sort of info I am chasing.

Cheers

just puttin int extended shakles will give you terrible shakle angle and rough ride. ruf works well with extended shakles, std length springs do not work well with extended shakles.

limiting uptravel is dissappointing when your trying to improve the vehicle, 1 step forward 1 step back kind of thing.

RUF has a different pin location and as such moves the diff forward 35mm, it also lifts the front end 50mm.

without doing ruf you can simply re drill the perch 25mm back (1 side already has it there it just needs to be larger). cut and shorten the torque rod and keep your flex as well.

I would do a 2 inch body and shift the diff myself. cheap, gives the extra clearance to run the bigger tyres both above and to the rear of the arch and doesnt lift the entire vehicle weight up.

can all be done in an afternoon.

would the steering shaft and the front driveshaft need to be extended at all?

[hi_luxmad]

hanko i had the 35s you now have on my hilux with only 2.5'' bodylift and extended shackles.
ride was not noticeably rougher imo.
limiting up travel is not a bad thing at all.you ideally only want 3-4 inches of uptravel by extending your bumpstops.these then act like a pivot point and force the diff to drop down on the other side increasing down travel.

moving your diff forwards isnt cheap and will require a hi steer kit,rear leafs,ifs steering box,ifs mounting kit,drive shaft mods,longer shocks,shock hoops,extended brake lines,castor wedges not to mention the diff gears to run the 35s properly and transfer gears if he wants them.
then if he cant do it himself he would need to pay labour costs to install all of this.

you'd easy be looking at around 4000+ to do it that way.

i done mine for around 1200 including the 35s on rims

[Stulux]

i've run both setups, I definently suggest moving the diff foward I run standard 2" leafpacks on standard shackles, rancho shocks and havent moved the shock towers with the two top leafs drilled 50mm forward, The two top leafs were made new with the holes drilled forward I dont agree with redrilling the leafs as I think its probably not worth the risk having unnessasary holes in leafpacks. I run a 90 model 2wd steering box a 45 series idler arm and standard tie rod. I have a flip arm on the near side and it all works great.

[Struth]

Thanks guys, so it sounds like a reasonably complex task to properly fit 35s under this vehicle.

RUF is probably ideal, but IFS steering boxes mixing and matching components, is a lot of work, the guy who wants this done probably wont be up for that much work/cost.

Also sounds like any other method, to be successful, will require a bit of R&D and trial and error.

Any other info would be good thanks.