can someone or anyone please help
cheers daniel
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overheating feroza
Moderator: Tiny
overheating feroza
hey guys an girls bit new to the feroza world and i have a problem i purchased a 91 feroza cheap with a blown head gasket (found to be between piston 4 into a water gallery) (not bad drove it home fine didn't get hot or anything funny) i replaced the head gasket put it back to gether an now it is getting hot so i replaced the thermostat (was opening at 100 degrease not the stamped temp of 78.8) flushed engine an radiator cheaked the water pump an it feels an looks fine i put it all back together an its still getting hot
can someone or anyone please help
cheers daniel
can someone or anyone please help
cheers daniel
if its got t#ts or tyres your gunna have trouble with it
Overheating is a feature Daihatsu included from the factory for the feroza. 
They all do it to some degree.
Partially to do with the water pump producing more cavitation than flow, small bore water galleries through the donk, and inefficiant radiator.
They all do it to some degree.
Partially to do with the water pump producing more cavitation than flow, small bore water galleries through the donk, and inefficiant radiator.
'95 Maruti lwb, 1.6GTI, 6.5:1, locked F+R, SPOA on 33's.
)
I'd start with pulling out the radiator and giving it a good external wash and an internal flush. THEN, I'd look at a new water pump.
What symptoms are you experiencing? Are you going by what your temp guage is telling you? It may be something as simple as a dodgy radiator cap, causing your overflow res to overflow.....
What symptoms are you experiencing? Are you going by what your temp guage is telling you? It may be something as simple as a dodgy radiator cap, causing your overflow res to overflow.....
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
mnemonix
shit thats no good haha do you think a new water pump might help
murcod
i did a bit of a search but most of wat i found was for rockys
ajferoza
yes the temp gauge was reading high the water was bubbling a bit in the block but only for about 15 20 seconds after i shut it of an the heat off the engine just felt like it was to hot ( if that makes any sence)
shit thats no good haha do you think a new water pump might help
murcod
i did a bit of a search but most of wat i found was for rockys
ajferoza
yes the temp gauge was reading high the water was bubbling a bit in the block but only for about 15 20 seconds after i shut it of an the heat off the engine just felt like it was to hot ( if that makes any sence)
if its got t#ts or tyres your gunna have trouble with it
i have seen posted a couple times about the water pump cavitating, i am wondering if a larger pulley was used on the water pump to slow it down is all that needed?
guess i'll just have to try it.
and if anyone has moved the thermastat? where did you put it? i was thinking inline with the outlet pipe running along the ex manifold.
guess i'll just have to try it.
and if anyone has moved the thermastat? where did you put it? i was thinking inline with the outlet pipe running along the ex manifold.
pics, dribble, turbo conversion.... click [url=http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/657917/1]here.[/url]
Feroza's have a smaller pulley than applauses to give better water flow at idle. I've tried both with little difference - IMO the pumps just rubbish, but its just one of a number of issues that all contribute to the problem
Blocked radiator, Failing Fan clutch, no shroud, odd thermostat, "intersting" water flow in the head, Ho hum water pump - and probably others i've missed.
Yes i've moved the thermostat - made a 90 Deg housing which connects to the 90 Deg bit coming out of the rear of the block - just conects to a shortened version of the standard pipe.
Inline would work - BUT it will need to be as close to the outlet as possible for decent temp control.
Even if you get it working standard, heavy off road use will still be an issue especially on hot days. I've got a 3 row core, twin 16" Spal electric fans - 1 front the other rear, relocated thermostat, some head work - everything but a better pump.
Was making a proper mechanical unit ( electric would also work but was concerned re reliability ) but have paused re engine decissions.....
As is typical Feroza - nothing is easy.
Blocked radiator, Failing Fan clutch, no shroud, odd thermostat, "intersting" water flow in the head, Ho hum water pump - and probably others i've missed.
Yes i've moved the thermostat - made a 90 Deg housing which connects to the 90 Deg bit coming out of the rear of the block - just conects to a shortened version of the standard pipe.
Inline would work - BUT it will need to be as close to the outlet as possible for decent temp control.
Even if you get it working standard, heavy off road use will still be an issue especially on hot days. I've got a 3 row core, twin 16" Spal electric fans - 1 front the other rear, relocated thermostat, some head work - everything but a better pump.
Was making a proper mechanical unit ( electric would also work but was concerned re reliability ) but have paused re engine decissions.....
As is typical Feroza - nothing is easy.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
thanks mm my radiator does not seem to be blocked inside or out i also refilled the the viscus fan with toyota silocone stuff that you can by witch stiffend the fan up a fair bit i also removed the thermostat an there is a lot of water flowing through the radiator now i took it for a quick drive (5 or 10 mins) not driving fast but playing in a bit of mud for half the trip an it didn't get hot at all
O. i also removed the water pump an made a thinner gasket for the pump could this help the water pump in anyway cavitating
also i do not have a fan shoud could this make a big diffrents
thanks for all your help so far fella's
cheers daniel
O. i also removed the water pump an made a thinner gasket for the pump could this help the water pump in anyway cavitating
also i do not have a fan shoud could this make a big diffrents
thanks for all your help so far fella's
cheers daniel
if its got t#ts or tyres your gunna have trouble with it
THin gasket will help with the huge clearnace at the pump rear BUT will also slightly mis-align the belt ( but could be worth a try.... )
No shroud = bad thing, put it back ASAP.
Just keep in mind there's a fairly narrow temperature range in which an engine operates efficiently, too cold and it will drop economy and have tighter clearances which MAY cause premature engine wear - too hot, well we all know the answer to that.
No thermost can also be a problem - if the rate of water flow through the engine is too high, it doesn't get time to transfer heat from the components. Engines with thermostats removed often run a restrictor disk to control the flow.
No shroud = bad thing, put it back ASAP.
Just keep in mind there's a fairly narrow temperature range in which an engine operates efficiently, too cold and it will drop economy and have tighter clearances which MAY cause premature engine wear - too hot, well we all know the answer to that.
No thermost can also be a problem - if the rate of water flow through the engine is too high, it doesn't get time to transfer heat from the components. Engines with thermostats removed often run a restrictor disk to control the flow.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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