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Pyro probe location in TD42T manifold
Pyro probe location in TD42T manifold
Hi all,
I'm installing a autron pyro into a 1999 GU TD42T over the weekend, but i have a question regarding location.
With my own install, i had the luxury of having the manifold off so i could look into the turbo flange and see the internal webbings/split ports (this was on a White/MTQ manifold). I can't do this with the install i'm doing this weekend.
We are goint to section out a peice of the factory heat sheild (as pictured), but i'd love it if someone could show me either a) where they've installed their's, or b) where the factory webbings are inside the manifold. I'd hate to go drilling in only to hit more metal.
Feel free to copy and draw on the image below.
And before anyone pipes up - i'm not going to take the easy way out and install it post turbo.
Thanks in advance,
Coxy
I'm installing a autron pyro into a 1999 GU TD42T over the weekend, but i have a question regarding location.
With my own install, i had the luxury of having the manifold off so i could look into the turbo flange and see the internal webbings/split ports (this was on a White/MTQ manifold). I can't do this with the install i'm doing this weekend.
We are goint to section out a peice of the factory heat sheild (as pictured), but i'd love it if someone could show me either a) where they've installed their's, or b) where the factory webbings are inside the manifold. I'd hate to go drilling in only to hit more metal.
Feel free to copy and draw on the image below.
And before anyone pipes up - i'm not going to take the easy way out and install it post turbo.
Thanks in advance,
Coxy
Hi Coxy
Most guys install the pyro after the turbo in the dump pipe. There are a few reasons why first it's a lot easier no removing of turbo ( to prevent metal swarf getting into the turbo or at least un bolt it and slide a piece of tin between the turbo and manifold ), and second if the pyro fails eg breaks ( which I have seen ) the turbo will eat it.
The pyro before the turbo will give you the true egt but the rule of thumb on the td42's if mounting in the dump pipe is max temp of 550oC after the turbo.
Coxy look at installing a thermowell this is like a protective sheith that the thermocouple fits when fitting it before the turbo.
Coxy what the diameter of the thermocouple in the kit ?
Rossco
Most guys install the pyro after the turbo in the dump pipe. There are a few reasons why first it's a lot easier no removing of turbo ( to prevent metal swarf getting into the turbo or at least un bolt it and slide a piece of tin between the turbo and manifold ), and second if the pyro fails eg breaks ( which I have seen ) the turbo will eat it.
The pyro before the turbo will give you the true egt but the rule of thumb on the td42's if mounting in the dump pipe is max temp of 550oC after the turbo.
Coxy look at installing a thermowell this is like a protective sheith that the thermocouple fits when fitting it before the turbo.
Coxy what the diameter of the thermocouple in the kit ?
Rossco
The thermocouple uses a 1/8 NPT boss, the actual thermocouple is roughly 5mm diameter and 75mm long (same as the kit from the last few group buys).
This is how i have my one set up - but its a different manifold.
Like i said earlier, i'm not interested in putting it in post turbo, despite the ease of post turbo installation.
Cheers
This is how i have my one set up - but its a different manifold.
Like i said earlier, i'm not interested in putting it in post turbo, despite the ease of post turbo installation.
Cheers
I did a lot of pre and post turbo temperature comparisons when I had my banga diesel, pre is certainly more accurate, I found about 200 degree c under full load was the discrepancy and almost none at cruise. The restricion of the turbo isn't a constant so neither is the temperature after it.
Joel
Joel
-Pre trip inspections/ servicing
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
Any chance you could post up a pic of where you've put the probe on a TD42T manifold? I was thinking of putting it between the front wall and centre of the turbo flange, as i am assuming if there was any port splitting, it will be right in the centre of the flange.PGS 4WD wrote:I did a lot of pre and post turbo temperature comparisons when I had my banga diesel, pre is certainly more accurate, I found about 200 degree c under full load was the discrepancy and almost none at cruise. The restricion of the turbo isn't a constant so neither is the temperature after it.
Joel
Cheers
coxy, how did you end up going with your location?
I'm just about to fit my pyro into the new ute and am thinking i ideally want to put it in pre turbo.
did you end up taking the turbo off so you could drill and tap with out risk or swarf getting into the turbo?
cheers
ps pics would be great.
I'm just about to fit my pyro into the new ute and am thinking i ideally want to put it in pre turbo.
did you end up taking the turbo off so you could drill and tap with out risk or swarf getting into the turbo?
cheers
ps pics would be great.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Hi mate, i ended up installing it as per my picture in the original post. I didn't pull the turbo off, however i had some magnets from a HDD either side of the drill and also the tap, which caught 99% of the swarf. I also used a little "pick up" magnet to sneak into the hole and grab any loose swarf (there was basically nothing there).
With the heat sheild, remove it, mark your probe location, sit the sheild back down and mark your hole centre on it. Use a holesaw to cut roughly 30-40mm hole. You can either have just the hole, or section out the excess material so the sheild has a slot in it.
The install went well, except the probe we got was faulty and obviously has a small leak in it at the probe's tip. Under acceleration, you can hear a "ticking" noise coming from the pyro gauge where the stainless sheath finishes. Bugger.
With the heat sheild, remove it, mark your probe location, sit the sheild back down and mark your hole centre on it. Use a holesaw to cut roughly 30-40mm hole. You can either have just the hole, or section out the excess material so the sheild has a slot in it.
The install went well, except the probe we got was faulty and obviously has a small leak in it at the probe's tip. Under acceleration, you can hear a "ticking" noise coming from the pyro gauge where the stainless sheath finishes. Bugger.
ok - I really dont want to pull the turbo off I imagine a little bit or grit would pass through into the exhaust without much damage at low revs when started anyway.coxy321 wrote:Hi mate, i ended up installing it as per my picture in the original post. I didn't pull the turbo off, however i had some magnets from a HDD either side of the drill and also the tap, which caught 99% of the swarf. I also used a little "pick up" magnet to sneak into the hole and grab any loose swarf (there was basically nothing there).
With the heat sheild, remove it, mark your probe location, sit the sheild back down and mark your hole centre on it. Use a holesaw to cut roughly 30-40mm hole. You can either have just the hole, or section out the excess material so the sheild has a slot in it.
The install went well, except the probe we got was faulty and obviously has a small leak in it at the probe's tip. Under acceleration, you can hear a "ticking" noise coming from the pyro gauge where the stainless sheath finishes. Bugger.
What sort of pyro did you use? I have one of the auber ins ones - My first probe died on me - cant complain too much they are very cheap. just curious.
Cheers
Ben
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Yeah, it was one of the Auber units bought directly from the US with the optional 3" probe. I had a similar theory about small swarf getting blown through the turbo without any issues.
We had the car sitting overnight before we did the job, so when we did do the initial fire up, everything was stone cold. I could imagine swarf etc. being an issue on a warm or hot engine, but i think its highly unlikely that it would catch or do damage on a cold engine.
Another thing that i did was to periodically fire the engine (literally just fire it then kill it) to help blow out any crap that may have been sitting in the freshly cut hole and/or thread.
We had the car sitting overnight before we did the job, so when we did do the initial fire up, everything was stone cold. I could imagine swarf etc. being an issue on a warm or hot engine, but i think its highly unlikely that it would catch or do damage on a cold engine.
Another thing that i did was to periodically fire the engine (literally just fire it then kill it) to help blow out any crap that may have been sitting in the freshly cut hole and/or thread.
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