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Sierra Lockrite question
Sierra Lockrite question
Gday guys, My kids have a 1984 SJ50 1.3 NT paddock basher. I'm looking for a second hand lockrite to put in the back. Which one would I need or are they all the same?
SWB GQ, lift, 35's, Lockers, crawlers, beadlocks, etc
What Rockmonkey said, just weld the diff. Its pretty easy, just do a search and you will find how to do it.
There is no point using a Lockrite in a paddock bomb, as it will never see bitumen, which is where you want the Lockrite to unlock the shafts to turn corners. Hell quite a few ppl here run welded diffs on the road, as zooks are light enough to do it, not that its legal.
There is no point using a Lockrite in a paddock bomb, as it will never see bitumen, which is where you want the Lockrite to unlock the shafts to turn corners. Hell quite a few ppl here run welded diffs on the road, as zooks are light enough to do it, not that its legal.
lockrite Q
Yeah I'v done the welded thing before on a road registered LJ50. Welded one tooth in the sunwheels so it would still turn once before locking. It was downright horrible to drive. For the sake of a couple of hundred bucks I figured I would be more civilised with this one.
SWB GQ, lift, 35's, Lockers, crawlers, beadlocks, etc
that sounds like a recipe for disaster, you have to heat it up then fill it full of high amp weld. dont go shoving bolts and stuff in there or welding a little bit like some ppl reccomend. I actually prefer a welded rear over the characteristics of a lockrite. The only downside is tyre wear when used on the pavement.
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In my opinion yes. At least you know its going to do the same thing consistently, as opposed to the lockrite which locks and unlocks whenever the hell it feels like it on occasion.
I think the jolt of suddenly locking and unlocking can contribute to driveline breakages, although this may not be an issue with smaller tyres.
I think the jolt of suddenly locking and unlocking can contribute to driveline breakages, although this may not be an issue with smaller tyres.
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lockrite Q
Point's well taken guys and thanks for the input. I'v driven a 4runner, Hilux, Vitara and Sierra with Lockrite's and an LJ50 with a welded diff. While they are nothing like the airlockers I have in the GQ I have found them effective if you figure out how to drive on them.
The vit belongs to a mate of mine and I drove it for a week or so. It worked consistently on tight corners so long as you remembered not to touch the accelerator until you had straightened out. Only place I found it difficult was longer sweeping corners in the wet and corrugated gravel roads. Still like it better than the welded one. I had two welded ones in the LJ50. One welded solid and one welded on one tooth. both were scary all the time on rd, esp in the wet.
The Sierra has a Lockrite in the front. It only unlocks in reverse. Not sure what's up with that. Any ideas?
Also, any ideas on my original question?
The vit belongs to a mate of mine and I drove it for a week or so. It worked consistently on tight corners so long as you remembered not to touch the accelerator until you had straightened out. Only place I found it difficult was longer sweeping corners in the wet and corrugated gravel roads. Still like it better than the welded one. I had two welded ones in the LJ50. One welded solid and one welded on one tooth. both were scary all the time on rd, esp in the wet.
The Sierra has a Lockrite in the front. It only unlocks in reverse. Not sure what's up with that. Any ideas?
Also, any ideas on my original question?
SWB GQ, lift, 35's, Lockers, crawlers, beadlocks, etc
The 1.3 NT has 26 spline rear.
The 1510 lockrite will fit using your current side gears
The 1530 will fit using the supplied couplers
For the front locker I would pull it apart and inspect it/rebuild it.
Something doesnt seem right.
Replacement springs and pins might be needed.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... ckers.html
Probably cost you $265 delivered for a brand new locker (1510) and replacement spings and pins.
The 1510 lockrite will fit using your current side gears
The 1530 will fit using the supplied couplers
For the front locker I would pull it apart and inspect it/rebuild it.
Something doesnt seem right.
Replacement springs and pins might be needed.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... ckers.html
Probably cost you $265 delivered for a brand new locker (1510) and replacement spings and pins.
Correct me if I am wrong but the 1510 reuses the stock side gears, as stated by jdk81, which is why the 1510 is suitable for the front or rear of a WTPJ.zook wrote:I have not taken apart a NT 1.3 diff, but if it is infact 26 spline, than the 1510 will NOT work, as its not 26 spline. The 1530 is the kit you want for the 26 spline rears.
'92 Rodeo - VR V6, T700, 31's
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
'89 Zook - 4 inch lift, 32's, 5.14 gears, RUF, F&R Lockrights, Rear Disconnect, Falcon/Landcruiser PS
Just a thought... If its a paddock basher, but you still want to do it a bit more properly than welding, why not use a mini-spool:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... spool.html
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... spool.html
Suzki 4x4 Club of WA - [url]http://home.offroad.com/~suzukiwa[/url]
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