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We all know that the 80/100 series handbrakes are sh!thouse to say the least. i want to build one mounted at the transfer end (like Shorty 40's one on his 40 series). I was thinking of using either a Subaru caliper or Aus built RWD Skyline caliper (both of which have the the pistons actuated by hydrolic fluid and the cable, when the lever is pulled ). I would make up a bracket off the case, for the caliper, easy. BUT im stuck on what disc to use?! need one with bugger all to minimal offset, and not too big, as i dont want to be smashing it when im wheeling it.
Im hoping either M & M, Overkill, or Offroad Industries can help here......or anyone else thats attempted it!
Phill
PS;.....i havent been under the truck with a tape measure yet......
Phill
1995 DX 80 series, brought to you by:- 1HDFTE, A750, PWR, Secret Squirrell Steinbauer, BFG, GME, Engel, ARB, Kaymar, and my empty wallet!
I have a Disc Transfer brake on my 60 the same as shorty 40
Mine has a cable actuated trailer caliper on it. The disc is flat no offset
and mounts behind the drive flange with the studs through it holding
it on
Eureka off road make and sell this kit. works ok but really need more
leverage than can be applied with the centre lever.
Would be great if it had a foot actuated pedal like a 80,s model fairlane
Phill I have no trouble with my 80 drum-in-disk handbrake, if it is adjusted right it works very well, easily well enough for good handbrake turns
do you NEED a disk handbrake, otherwise the ransfer mounted drum handbrake off a GQ/GQ or early landcruiser might be a good option if you are keen to ditch the drum-in-disk.
one downside of tailshaft handbrakes is, if you pull the brake on and have poor/zero traction on one wheel, it's as good as no handbrake at all.
Gday Phil
I have played with my handbrake lots and made some good improvements over what it was like (or how bad it used to work)
You need to undo all adjustments starting at the handle itself, and start adjusting at the wheels as in the instructions. get new rotors or have the brake surfaces machined and new pads to suit.
Larger wheels only reduce the effectiveness of the unit, think about getting a early rear diff with full size drum brakes if you deem it warrented over the reduced braking you will get on road.
Lastly, have seen a motorbike front disc (flat and about 4mm thick) and rear calliper from another bike, (like a road/trail rear calliper with rod control.) Now it might have been quite a good setup, but a few downfalls for this design...namely engineering the package and possible damage to the brake and transfer a millisecond after it is bent with a rock etc.
Andrew
). I would make up a bracket off the case, for the caliper, easy. BUT im stuck on what disc to use?! need one with bugger all to minimal offset, and not too big, as i dont want to be smashing it when im wheeling it.
