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thought id put up some pics of the install and vids of running of my sd33t with a garrett 2860RS and Subaru WAIC. Running max boost of around 20psi. The WAIC water is circulated by a Davies Craig 15lpm electric pump.
GT2860RS with a .60 comp housing and .64 exh housing a/r's
The old HT15 was very dusted and running out of its efficiency range
The low down power is much much better now and the turbo reaches 5psi by 1550rpm and 12psi by 2000rpm. 20psi hits at around 2500rpm and will pull all the way through to 3800rpm. I have noticed it is much nicer to drive in the low rev range - sub 2000rpm, pulls through the gears with ease.
EGT's max out at 550 degrees. My mates SD33T often sees 630+ on his stock setup. I am quite happy with those temps as my pump can't deliver much more fuel.
The flexi hose on the intake is temporary - Just waiting for some more ali piping. The rest of the pipe work will also be replaced with ali.
Air con condenser from a 2000ish model magna.
random pic into making dump pipe
complete dump pipe
the front grill is being replaced tomorrow with a new one...it was cutout for my old air to air setup
Sounds good too, looks like it pulls a crap load better than mine. How much did the setup cost ya to chuck it on? Did you have issues with that pipe near the batt to clear the bonnet when its shut?
exellent jobby
85 MK lwb 3.3td 2 inch body lift, 32inch simex Ironman 2 inch suspension lift. 4 tonne on the clock, original donk.
Vanne wrote:Sounds good too, looks like it pulls a crap load better than mine. How much did the setup cost ya to chuck it on? Did you have issues with that pipe near the batt to clear the bonnet when its shut?
exellent jobby
the intake piping clears easily - the bonnet rises up nicely.
setup was around 3k by the time i finished the intercooler, exhaust, and turbo setup. the little odds and ends - speedflow fittings, hoses, silicone hoses etc...all adds up!
well worth it in my opinion, effortless pushes 35's around town at under 2000rpm and keeps up with traffic. towing a trailer is no problem - can;t even tell it is there.
overtaking at 100+ is just incredible for an old turbo diesel - 100 to 130 in a few seconds.
i had 130hp with the stock turbo setup @ 15psi...
I can't wait to get it on the dyno to see what the new output is and the powerband.
I was towing dude. had me 2wd rodeo in tow on an A frame. Coming out of melbourne 60klms. slight ticking noise first, thought it was a manifold leak, 5 min after that kocking very badly. Did a post a bout a week ago "SD33T broken crank and merry xmas"
But mine has been like this for about 10 months but a shute dont weight much. I had towed a car tralier ages ago with it for about three hours with no probs at all. When mine broke was pullin hard up a hill at about 2200 rpm in 5th.... To me now i have found out that there are quiet a few SD with broke cranks out there. All seem to go on the front side of the No1 big end journel. When it does break it will still run usually i made it 60 klms back to melb. still towing but doin all of 60km/h. Also oil pressure still normal, due to hard core oil pump.
Thinking its not soley a boost issue because they all seem to break at the front where not much twisting load is applied, Maybe a balance issuse and to do with the way the oil gallery is drilled at the factory.
A mate of mine broke his also only after big boost, although both ours motors have big k's on them, his not known (used eng) Mine has 400,000klms on it but still has over 400psi compression.
Will keep you posted on what action we will take in reguards to treating the cranks or getting a few billit ones made up..
All you TD guys i know what your thinking, get a TD42 BUT where do u thing your TD's came from!!!!!!!!! (yes when crank broke ummm GU TD42T had crossed my mind)
The factory turbos are known to heat the oil ALOT when the are compressing air out of their efficiency range. What oil were you running? Did you have an oil cooler?
A bloke on patrol4x4.com broke his crank (wazzzzza) he ran a thinner oil and big boost on an air research t3 euro turbo...I wonder if the oil breaking down has anything to do with these breaks? Ie oil too hot and too thin thus not providing the protection?
Good point on the stock turbo, But when built the car from ground up the heat exchange on the side of the block got plated off and run a 300x400mm air to oil cooler. In plating off the block had to drill and tap hole for water fitting back in to the side of the head, unless you were to open up holes in head gastket to get the flow from the block tp the head.
My mate that broke his all so but he runs a large garret not sure spec but it doesnt come on boost till around 2300rpm, he only ever ran 12psi, then when mine seemed on he upped his boost to 18psi then only did about 300klms and his broke.
I dont think its an oil prob at all (well not on mine), when mine worked towing the car tralier months ago i could still hold my hand on the sump, even when it broke it was a cool day, i had just fitted a desert coolers rad, EGT's never went over 450c, coolant was below 80c.
I have been running 15-40 AGIP Turbo diesel oil, which we use at work in everything from small petrol and diesel cars up to M11 cummins, perkins.
I got plent of ideas, like the ticking noise that was 1st. To me seems like the break was twisting off and 1 or 2 of the pistons were just touching the head. hard to explain will post pics once back in melbourne and pulled apart..
no no, i like the hijack, youre perfectly on topic
all good info.
in another sd33t i had, if i was working it up a hill on a reasonable angle and loaded up, you could hear a slight tick, like it was starving of oil at the front of the block...that motor is still going running 18psi and no cooler :| (i dont own it anymore)
what other ideas have you got of the ticking noise?
That was my only thought on the ticking noise as when i mentioned it to my mate that broke one as well. The penny dropped and he says his was making the noise to just before the crank went.
I have never had oil pressure issuses at all even after the coooler was fitted due to it being a full flow system. Did have heating probs but what SD33 didnt, but a alloy rad fixed that right up.
I think i will take my crank and my mate one to a a mob in melbourne to see if they can look at the breaks and determine what took place. One i find out the events that happend maybe a shot peened used one, or maybe cryo'd. Get the flywheel, crank and harmonic balancer balanced, new set of brgs and off i go again.
Wanted to avoid doin up whole motor if i can because its in such good bloody shape. But i did drive it that few k's with it broken so im not sure as to what more damage may have been done to the 1st main brg carrier.
Another thought the cranks are just too weak because only 4 main brgs.
Hows the pre cleaner working for clean air as a mate told me when i was going to get rid of the main cleaner that they dont have the same filtration as the paper is a larger micron type.
Good work hope mine would go like that.
Rangie Thing wrote:Hows the pre cleaner working for clean air as a mate told me when i was going to get rid of the main cleaner that they dont have the same filtration as the paper is a larger micron type.
Good work hope mine would go like that.
Works very well so far. Much better than a POD!
I use the good quality replacement Ryco filters.
I am looking into a custom replacement oiled UniFilter.
money_killer wrote:it needs more fuel
What makes you say that? I don't think I can get much more fuel into it...
Perhaps gas is an option
But then I would crack 100rwkw and the TD42T owners would cry...
My sd33 turbo is making that same ticking noise i posted a thread on it not long ago, its only on 8psi boost with the fuel turned up to suit on the dyno and has over 400k on it but still goes hard.
I tow a big trailer for work and thats when i can really hear the ticking noise and always when it comes on boost and only from about 1800rpm to about 3000rpm.
NOW im thinking about getting it checked out.
92 gq lwb 4.2 efi cheezy winch bar ,10000 tjm winch ,custom rear tube bar , rock sliders, 35 bfg muds = plenty of battle scars !
modifiedman wrote:My sd33 turbo is making that same ticking noise i posted a thread on it not long ago, its only on 8psi boost with the fuel turned up to suit on the dyno and has over 400k on it but still goes hard.
I tow a big trailer for work and thats when i can really hear the ticking noise and always when it comes on boost and only from about 1800rpm to about 3000rpm.
NOW im thinking about getting it checked out.
You have an exhaust manifold leak.
Pull your manifold off, get it machined true and buy a genuine nissan exhaust gasket.
I love digging up old threads:), just wanted to see the progress you were having on the cranks??
I with the help of a good mate have boosted mine to 15psi and a heap more fuel. Running an A2A intercooler i have not had a single problem at all to date, touch wood and this setup has been on for approx 10,000kms. I do run the thicker penrite oil now and she seems to runs alot quieter and the oil pressure seems alot more stable..
Does make you worry when you hear of peoples engines going but mine still starts and runs great, only a matter of time i guess, feeling a bit like a ZD30 owner...lmao...not really...
Cranks,,, This is an old thread. Got mine going on saturday.
After much deliberation it was seen that the crank/block are of poor design with only 4 mains to hold the thing in. After another crank was found we talked about treating it. But it came down to the crank gets a bad "whip" up in the front section, this may be able to be fixed buy adding another bearing into the from timing cover some how but i just wanted a bloody car again. Treating the crank may just make it more britle and the amount of whip may break it quicker.
So the crank got ground and linished, then the full rotating assembly, balancer to clutch got balanced. Plus i also balanced the pistons and rods, but these were all very close.
Also a custom grind on the cam,, THIS has made the difference. totally diff exhaust note, gets a real growl in it and the torque is a lot better off boost.
The fuel pump can only compensate for about 18 psi. So the over boost can help drop the EGTS heaps, yes will wear your engine a little quicker.
I wont be going back to 20psi. I will go for 15-16psi and limit the fuel pump to around 12-13psi this will give me an over boost, because at the stock 6-8psi the egts will go over 650.
I had fitted an intercooler before crank broke made no bloody differance at all so i wouldn;t waste my time again. The SD's seem to run a lot better and cooler at big boost, just the bottom cant handle it..
Big boost may be ok on SWB and shutes because you dont spend a lot of time at 20psi, hay mine lasted 10 months, somones elses on here went for 3 yrs before crank broke.
My advice dont tow with huge boost
I hope my shit experience will help some of you avoid a 2000$ rebuild, i went for new not a used one. Just a choice
Thats some really good info, i guess its a matter of time before mine goes but tbh i reckon its the same for most engines out there but i feel pretty safe with mine..
Clive Cams in Furntree Gully VIC. Did an awsome job,, when i say custom, the hard facing was coming off mine and i gave it to him and said if you can make it lumpy do it, if not just fix and std grind.
Like i said i think on a SWB big boost is ok. Small car not on boost all the time go for it crank up the boost but done tow.
On another note i forgot to add. A lot of people are saying oh metal fatigue the crank was weak... Not so the 2 cranks that were broken mine and a mates were checked by a metal guru, it seems they were not cracked before breaking.. So my thought was the age really had nothing to do with it.
RANGIE THING:
Why do u think u need an addative in your oil ? My motor when stripped at 500,000klms had perfect bearings, other than the new 2 piece crank. As for fuel screw turbo' or not? If turbo pump fitted and in decent nick it should already compensate for about 15-18psi of boost. After this the pumping elements in the pump are too small to deliver anymore fuel.
The oil addative was just a thought to keep the oil on vital bits longer under high boost (there is a demo in auto shops that shows how well it sticks)
and with the fuel might try some more boost and see what happens as now under full boost up hills it gets about 480 post turbo and creeps upto about 500 on a long hill
Update. Fully rebuilt SD factory tune till run in, wholy shit EGTS out of control. 620deg post turbo up a hill!!!!!!!!!
Could this be a down-fall of a lumpy cam??
Yes pump and injectors have been done, cost me 2500$
have boosted mine to 15psi and a heap more fuel. Running an A2A intercooler i have not had a single problem at all to date, touch wood and this setup has been on for approx 10,000kms. I do run the thicker penrite oil now and she seems to runs alot quieter and the oil pressure seems alot more stable..
