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winch truck/offroad challenge truck recipe?

General Tech Talk

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Post by NICK »

GU diffs are 220mm wider than the hilux ones, so about 8 inches. you need to out board the front springs as the drivers side would sit on top of the pumkin if you dont.

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Post by mrgrumpysleeps »

NICK wrote:GU diffs are 220mm wider than the hilux ones, so about 8 inches. you need to out board the front springs as the drivers side would sit on top of the pumkin if you dont.

NICK
what u mean by out board? Mount the coil on the outside of the chassis rail?
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Post by NICK »

no, if you keep leaf springs, which i did, you need to spread them apart.
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winch challenge truck recipie

Post by 5middy »

I would be putting my coil overs on to the GU diff, so no leaf springs or Coils. Does anyone know the width of a GU chassis? Just trying to work out if it will actually fit under my hilux. What do people think about GU diff in front, a GQ diff in the rear of a supercharger Lexus v8 which loves to destroy hilux diff heads?
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Post by mrgrumpysleeps »

Yeah ill be putting coils in or coil overs
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Re: winch challenge truck recipie

Post by 1MadEngineer »

5middy wrote:supercharger Lexus v8 which loves to destroy hilux diff heads?
what do you mean? diff heads. setup the diff properly and it should take all the power without too much drama. If you are snapping the head off the pinion then don't look at nissan's for an upgrade. They both run near identical pinion bearing sizes although the GQ/GU's seem to snap quite easily right before the step after the outer pinion bearing :cry:
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Re: winch challenge truck recipie

Post by ludacris »

1MadEngineer wrote:
5middy wrote:supercharger Lexus v8 which loves to destroy hilux diff heads?
what do you mean? diff heads. setup the diff properly and it should take all the power without too much drama. If you are snapping the head off the pinion then don't look at nissan's for an upgrade. They both run near identical pinion bearing sizes although the GQ/GU's seem to snap quite easily right before the step after the outer pinion bearing :cry:
I have only seen patrol diffs snap rear pinions when the trailing arms snap causing a severe angle which i do not think any diff will handle. I suppose you could look at danas if the money allows but I know you will not have any dramas and I am sure lots of others will agree using a GU front and GQ rear is a great choice for what you are doing and running.

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Post by 5middy »

the diffs have been setup properly, but the problem is coming with either cracking teeth or smashing teeth off the crown wheel. Both diffs are fitted with ARB lockers. Before you say be careful when engaging the locker, you need to see the type of tracks that we race on, sometimes the lockers can be in and out over a dozen times in a stage. It has chewed through 2 hi pinion fronts, and 2 hilux rears so far. Putting nissan diffs in as I want the reliability and strength, and don't want to keep replacing diff heads in a competition as I have had to do a couple of times now. Although the hilux diffs have proven good so far, im wanting that little bit more. An with a new engine on the way with even more power, strength and reliability wouldnt go-amiss eh.
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Post by DIRTY ROCK STAR »

sit down work out your budget.
then double it.

if you are lucky you may get some change out of it.

unless you have built them before you will always spend a heap more building your comp truck.

just my 2c.

oh and dont be scared off using 80 diffs. they are better quality then people say.
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Post by Slunnie »

ludacris wrote:It is going to be wider but by changing to a different + offset rim you should be able to get it close and it will give it great driving caracteristics compared to having the normal wider offset rims.

Cris
Wont that interfere with the steering links?
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Post by ludacris »

Slunnie wrote:
ludacris wrote:It is going to be wider but by changing to a different + offset rim you should be able to get it close and it will give it great driving caracteristics compared to having the normal wider offset rims.

Cris
Wont that interfere with the steering links?
If you go too much it will. Sticking to a standard patrol rim offset will get it a little closer. Dont think you will get anything more + than that of the shelf anyway.

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Post by S.CoXy »

Just got 2 toyota lockers from ECGS delivered to aust for 623AU and a quote for around USD1000 for a set of CM axels. FOX coil overs are about 300 a corner but you need to be sure of the size.... As far as wheel trac goes all the comps ive watched in VIC they are all one use track with little to no ruts ( execpt for a single rock and log section ) so travel and under carage clearance are more important when building a truck.

100" wheel base seams to be the best????!?
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Post by ludacris »

S.CoXy wrote:Just got 2 toyota lockers from ECGS delivered to aust for 623AU and a quote for around USD1000 for a set of CM axels. FOX coil overs are about 300 a corner but you need to be sure of the size.... As far as wheel trac goes all the comps ive watched in VIC they are all one use track with little to no ruts ( execpt for a single rock and log section ) so travel and under carage clearance are more important when building a truck.

100" wheel base seams to be the best????!?
Do you have a link for ecgs?

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Post by nzdarin »

mrgrumpysleeps wrote:
bogged wrote:
mrgrumpysleeps wrote:
mickyd555 wrote:
mrgrumpysleeps wrote: -twin motors 1k

where do you buy these from?
make the adaptor yourselfH
7.8hp motors are not free.
from my understanding 7.8's are no good piggy backed as they destroy themselves.
The 24v 7.8 Superduty motors would quite easily be the best 24v motor for winch comps. And as Wazza made the first adpater for these motor specifcally for me I'll say I've a had a fair bit of experience with them. Also I've been running the 7.8's since the first shipment into NZ in 2005. The first motor I bought is still going strong with only new brushes fitted.

Now if you are talking the 12v 7.8 then that is a different story and the 6hp Warn motor is a better option.
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Post by mrgrumpysleeps »

nzdarin wrote:
mrgrumpysleeps wrote:
bogged wrote:
mrgrumpysleeps wrote:
mickyd555 wrote:
where do you buy these from?
make the adaptor yourselfH
7.8hp motors are not free.
from my understanding 7.8's are no good piggy backed as they destroy themselves.
The 24v 7.8 Superduty motors would quite easily be the best 24v motor for winch comps. And as Wazza made the first adpater for these motor specifcally for me I'll say I've a had a fair bit of experience with them. Also I've been running the 7.8's since the first shipment into NZ in 2005. The first motor I bought is still going strong with only new brushes fitted.

Now if you are talking the 12v 7.8 then that is a different story and the 6hp Warn motor is a better option.

Yeah i was talking about the 12v.

I dont think i need to spend the $$ that a 24v twin motor setup costs to buy and maintain. twin 6's on 12v should be plenty.
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Post by S.CoXy »

Do you have a link for ecgs?
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/

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Post by Mousie »

dude i`m in the middle of building a gq for winch comps and i`m hitting the 40k mark and still got loads to go lol...
its not a cheap thing to build it right and reliable,
old saying speed cost money... how fast u wanna go ?
i wanna have a good crack so making the car reliable is the main thing for me
just my 2c werth
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Post by RUFF »

ludacris wrote:Do you have a link for ecgs?

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Post by S.CoXy »

dude i`m in the middle of building a gq for winch comps and i`m hitting the 40k mark and still got loads to go lol...
its not a cheap thing to build it right and reliable,
old saying speed cost money... how fast u wanna go ?
i wanna have a good crack so making the car reliable is the main thing for me
just my 2c werth
cheers
From point of view you are correct but if you don't have the $$$ or you spend too much you are more worried about braking it then you are then driving it... I have drove a $100 padoc bomb fastest that a liberty and see a $1700 MQ shorty out drive $80 000 trucks with a strong right foot and a whole lot of I DON"T GIVE A FUCK!!!! and i'll fix it cheap latter.
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Post by def90 »

S.CoXy wrote:Just got 2 toyota lockers from ECGS delivered to aust for 623AU and a quote for around USD1000 for a set of CM axels. FOX coil overs are about 300 a corner but you need to be sure of the size.... As far as wheel trac goes all the comps ive watched in VIC they are all one use track with little to no ruts ( execpt for a single rock and log section ) so travel and under carage clearance are more important when building a truck.

100" wheel base seams to be the best????!?
i would've thought an easy 110" -115" for winch challenge style events?
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Post by HeathGQ »

RUFF wrote:
mrgrumpysleeps wrote:Research Laurie Sternbeck in his 1UZ luxy, not a million dollar truck, no 1000HP motor, just everything in balnce.
Ill give Laurie one thing he can drive and he has a great cable runner. But you are seriously kidding yourself if you beleive that car is not a big dollar rig. I doubt you could build the same car for under 50k.
The lux is on the small scale of budget for competitive winch challenge trucks. And yeah, over 50k to build it to what it is....
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Post by frp88 »

pigletracing wrote:a RECIPIE THAT WORKED FOR ME ( but like all challenge class illegal on road)

(1) SURF CHASSIS, (most wreckers usualy them away) it weighed 1/2 the amt of a GQ chassis & is already 5 link rear end.(legnthen your trailing arms)
(2) Graft on GU front diff & GQ rear (a skinnier track in the rear for cornering) 4.88 ratios (from H4)
(3) light weight motor, I went V6 commy & auto trans (got the complete car with computer ect for $300) had more than enough power to turn 37",(used to reach 130klm in low range b4 hitting the rev limiter) but you could go a factory supercharged V6 for not much more coin.but more zoomzoom.
(4) marks adaptors have all engine mounts addaptors for trannys ect you will need & that cost me $2ish"K" (I used a hilux trany.
(5) BODY ist about now you can start thinking of what you want to use.
you dont have to use surf/fourrunner or hilux just because you used a surf chassis, you probably wont use the factory chassis body mounts. As the body you pick will be moved back to gain maximum approach angle, & the radiater/oil coolers thrown up on the tray to keep them away from mud & sticks. I used a Feroza & because it was a soft top I only had 1/2 the body to cut away, theres millions out there & arnt worth 2cents at the wreckers. If I did it again Id pick a Zook body & cut it into an extra cab or get a rav 4 thats been ass hit & cut it down.
(6) TRAY & Finishing
#NB go to your enginere 1st..
have a rough plan of what your doing IE- chassis, engine,body.
he will tell you what you need to do, as he will be doing the certificates for road worthy. leave 31's on it at 1st & never say your making a race car, just a project 4wd for trips & light club stuff.
after its regoed then go the biger tyres & lift.

Thats is so funny because the whole reason the event organizer what it legal and road regestered is for the third party. Now I hope THIS NEVER Happends someone gets killed I would like to see where the 6 inch lift and 37 inch tyres go. You can't have it both ways why don't you build it for MMM's production class? :D
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Post by pigletracing »

frp88 wrote:
pigletracing wrote:a RECIPIE THAT WORKED FOR ME ( but like all challenge class illegal on road)

(1) SURF CHASSIS, (most wreckers usualy them away) it weighed 1/2 the amt of a GQ chassis & is already 5 link rear end.(legnthen your trailing arms)
(2) Graft on GU front diff & GQ rear (a skinnier track in the rear for cornering) 4.88 ratios (from H4)
(3) light weight motor, I went V6 commy & auto trans (got the complete car with computer ect for $300) had more than enough power to turn 37",(used to reach 130klm in low range b4 hitting the rev limiter) but you could go a factory supercharged V6 for not much more coin.but more zoomzoom.
(4) marks adaptors have all engine mounts addaptors for trannys ect you will need & that cost me $2ish"K" (I used a hilux trany.
(5) BODY ist about now you can start thinking of what you want to use.
you dont have to use surf/fourrunner or hilux just because you used a surf chassis, you probably wont use the factory chassis body mounts. As the body you pick will be moved back to gain maximum approach angle, & the radiater/oil coolers thrown up on the tray to keep them away from mud & sticks. I used a Feroza & because it was a soft top I only had 1/2 the body to cut away, theres millions out there & arnt worth 2cents at the wreckers. If I did it again Id pick a Zook body & cut it into an extra cab or get a rav 4 thats been ass hit & cut it down.
(6) TRAY & Finishing
#NB go to your enginere 1st..
have a rough plan of what your doing IE- chassis, engine,body.
he will tell you what you need to do, as he will be doing the certificates for road worthy. leave 31's on it at 1st & never say your making a race car, just a project 4wd for trips & light club stuff.
after its regoed then go the biger tyres & lift.

Thats is so funny because the whole reason the event organizer what it legal and road regestered is for the third party. Now I hope THIS NEVER Happends someone gets killed I would like to see where the 6 inch lift and 37 inch tyres go. You can't have it both ways why don't you build it for MMM's production class? :D
YES, as the top line said. (but like all challenge class wil be elegal on the road) even my wifes GU (tourer) has bits that RTA would pick. cant win!!!
heeheehee :lol: no coment on production class.. but the trucks are ready & might be used for OBC 2011.
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Post by Mosko111 »

I rekon go for it Todd!! get the mine to put you in a house with a shed and get tinkering! heck there isnt much more you can do in your spare time at Moronbah!!! haha,

And if you do keep it simple but reliable i think that you will do it quite cheap! just make sure that you know what you want and reasearch it so that you do it right the first time!

And just start making custom barwrok to sell to help pay for it....

And ill get my second winch ($450 second hand MINT CONDITION) modded by crazy eyes, so you can borrow a air free spooled/ twin motored/ 65% ratio winch and just set up your own 24 volt system for a couple hundred bucks.
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Post by cruzinnboozn »

Quality car, proven performer...
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Post by bad_religion_au »

why all this blabber about GQ diffs?

60 series diffs - 200 bucks.
upgraded rear axle studs - 200 bucks
longfields 30 spline super set - 1000 bucks.

stronger than GQ/GU - priceless.
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Post by Mosko111 »

80 series diffs with a gu centre pumpkin grafted into them and running 80 spider gears so that you can run longfields axles and cv's, thats my plan anyhows for my cruiser haha.

but yes 60's are strong and i know where we could get a couple cheap todd!

but you can elimintae breakages with smart winching and driving, and being a lighter vehicle it wont be carrying as much load= less pressure on components
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Post by 351ciofgrunt »

bad_religion_au wrote:why all this blabber about GQ diffs?

60 series diffs - 200 bucks.
upgraded rear axle studs - 200 bucks
longfields 30 spline super set - 1000 bucks.

stronger than GQ/GU - priceless.
Haha 30 spline axles...GQ's run bigger axles than that in their front diffs.

You make me laugh :finger:
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Post by bad_religion_au »

351ciofgrunt wrote:
bad_religion_au wrote:why all this blabber about GQ diffs?

60 series diffs - 200 bucks.
upgraded rear axle studs - 200 bucks
longfields 30 spline super set - 1000 bucks.

stronger than GQ/GU - priceless.
Haha 30 spline axles...GQ's run bigger axles than that in their front diffs.

You make me laugh :finger:
yes, but they are narrower than cruiser axles where the stub shaft necks down... 60 series end up a stronger steer axle than patrol
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Post by BeNoS »

afaik lauries lux to build would cost probs more to the tune of 100g if not possibly more. well thats about what it owes him from start to finish.
also reading other posts from dgr ect. a lux front with arbs and longfields work out to be a stronger setup than a gu front end. and alot lighter. better clearence, and better suited to the smaller comp truck. patrol gear is massive and if using with a hilux chassis i reckon would be to big.
also lauries truck these days in running 37" treps with a bundera front end and hilux rear. althoug they are all crack tested and rebuild every 12 months or so. and are usually cracked in some form or another.
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