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coily... can u change to coilovers?
coily... can u change to coilovers?
hey been chatin to a few guys on how to lift my coily and they seem to think coilover would be the go.. i dont no much about them, information would be great
yea they would help with the castor issue.
when i was looking at lifting my coily i got onto alan johnson from piranah offroad in melbourne, an he had plenty of ideas. he was talking about custom springs an struts an a couple of dropped radius bars.
this was a while ago now but might be worth a call. 03 97621200
when i was looking at lifting my coily i got onto alan johnson from piranah offroad in melbourne, an he had plenty of ideas. he was talking about custom springs an struts an a couple of dropped radius bars.
this was a while ago now but might be worth a call. 03 97621200
It's entirely one thing to have ideas.... another altogether to have the money, time and fab skills to make it happen.
We had a club member with a coiler and I did quite a lot of work on his car years ago. It ran custom springs and Koni shocks specially built and valved for the application (and fitted with the coil seat in the front... the front of coilers already runs a coilover for what it's worth) I didn't do the suspension, it was done by GT suspension in Melbourne.
When approaching the problems associated with coiler suspension, you need to take into account all the problems that make them hard to work with.
A) The radius arms are weak and prone to bending.
B) The brackets are weak on the diff and are prone to failure.
C) the factory chassis brackets do not permit a useful shock to be installed.
D) the front has high roll stiffness, made even worse with urethane bushes
E)You do know there's no heavy duty upgrades for the front end don't you - axles, diffs, gears etc? (ie you're going to putting lots of $$ into the front end... only to have 22 spline front axles in a whacky length.... funny diff ect.
Putting all that aside, running some short coilovers is a great, if really expensive, idea. You'd really want to add a 3rd link on top of the diff to allow you to tune roll stiffness separately from suspension behaviour with a sway bar. It seems silly to spend $1500 on coilovers and springs and then have the roll stiffness of the car dominated by its radius arm design, limiting travel and preventing the front from flexing, especially when climbing.
Lowering the radius arm mounts? have you noticed how low they are now? they're massive rock anchors stock and lowering them further just undoes all the work of the added lift. I'd be wanting to run a much longer radius arm up beside the chassis to allow you to run closer to a flat pan under the chassis. Sure, it will assist ride and castor, but it won't really assist in a good axle path as the radius arms are too short to support much more than the stock amount of suspension travel - 5"
As an aside - you'll have to deal with all the same problems in the rear. The rear is only designed for 6" of travel, and 3 of lift means you have no droop left in the rear end at ride height, and all the angles in the back end are as though the car is sitting at full droop all the time. Again, you'd want longer, stronger radius arms, panhard work (including raising the axle end mount IMHO) custom shock mounts, and some custom springs.
It's a big, complicated and expensive project. so long as you have your eyes open, go crazy. You're likely to find you end up throwing most of the running gear away in the process, but you could end up with a pretty good outcome if you are patient and find a good builder.
something like WRXZOOK's work of art... which I can't find a photo of now... someone help me here.
Steve.
We had a club member with a coiler and I did quite a lot of work on his car years ago. It ran custom springs and Koni shocks specially built and valved for the application (and fitted with the coil seat in the front... the front of coilers already runs a coilover for what it's worth) I didn't do the suspension, it was done by GT suspension in Melbourne.
When approaching the problems associated with coiler suspension, you need to take into account all the problems that make them hard to work with.
A) The radius arms are weak and prone to bending.
B) The brackets are weak on the diff and are prone to failure.
C) the factory chassis brackets do not permit a useful shock to be installed.
D) the front has high roll stiffness, made even worse with urethane bushes
E)You do know there's no heavy duty upgrades for the front end don't you - axles, diffs, gears etc? (ie you're going to putting lots of $$ into the front end... only to have 22 spline front axles in a whacky length.... funny diff ect.
Putting all that aside, running some short coilovers is a great, if really expensive, idea. You'd really want to add a 3rd link on top of the diff to allow you to tune roll stiffness separately from suspension behaviour with a sway bar. It seems silly to spend $1500 on coilovers and springs and then have the roll stiffness of the car dominated by its radius arm design, limiting travel and preventing the front from flexing, especially when climbing.
Lowering the radius arm mounts? have you noticed how low they are now? they're massive rock anchors stock and lowering them further just undoes all the work of the added lift. I'd be wanting to run a much longer radius arm up beside the chassis to allow you to run closer to a flat pan under the chassis. Sure, it will assist ride and castor, but it won't really assist in a good axle path as the radius arms are too short to support much more than the stock amount of suspension travel - 5"
As an aside - you'll have to deal with all the same problems in the rear. The rear is only designed for 6" of travel, and 3 of lift means you have no droop left in the rear end at ride height, and all the angles in the back end are as though the car is sitting at full droop all the time. Again, you'd want longer, stronger radius arms, panhard work (including raising the axle end mount IMHO) custom shock mounts, and some custom springs.
It's a big, complicated and expensive project. so long as you have your eyes open, go crazy. You're likely to find you end up throwing most of the running gear away in the process, but you could end up with a pretty good outcome if you are patient and find a good builder.
something like WRXZOOK's work of art... which I can't find a photo of now... someone help me here.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
a mate of mine has done the jimny front end conversion,
and is running a jimny 80mm lift and 50mm body, with custom front and
rear arms, both diffs are braced to take the load. In the rear he has only
used the front mount on the front of the rear diff, and used another shorter
arm on the top of the diff similar to the patrol rear set up. he gets awesome flex
and driveability out of it.
and is running a jimny 80mm lift and 50mm body, with custom front and
rear arms, both diffs are braced to take the load. In the rear he has only
used the front mount on the front of the rear diff, and used another shorter
arm on the top of the diff similar to the patrol rear set up. he gets awesome flex
and driveability out of it.
96 Coily, 100mm lift, Jimny Front Diff, 4.09 diff gears, Reduction gears, 30" Trepadors, 6 Point Rollcage, Custom Bash Plates, Open diffs to give the big guys a run for their money!!
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