Hi again, today we replaced both front disk brake rotors on EL111, all went ok however I remain concerned about those front hubs, I found diagrams about hub regions in F300-FS-Front_Axle_and_Suspension.pdf which I downloaded recently. We were very cautious re-installing the hub components, could not locate those mating marks referred to in that section, from what I can understand they could be installed in two positions, we never upset the spring within assembly, because all allen headed bolts were previously lock tighted undoing the bolts became a tough job, document definately encourages you to tension wrench every bolt to specified settings, intend replacing the bolts were HTensile Torque headed threaded bolts which should make dissasembly a much easier task in the future.
Anyone whom has attemped changing front disc rotors in the past may be able to share a bit more information on this topic, look forward to your reply, best regards from Ran
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Replaced Disc Rotors & Front Hub Questions?
Moderator: Tiny
Replaced Disc Rotors & Front Hub Questions?
Have 2 Ferozas, keen vehicle modder, do most repairs myself, 62years young, got the Feroza Bug....
There's no magic or science to it and certainly mega bolts aren't needed.
If you do pull the springs out of the engaging mechanism by accident its a bit of a PITA but not that hard to get together again. Get it wrong and the cover wont go on - or it doesnt engage/disengage. I do try and avoid it but occaisionally it happens - especially if the hubs haven't been cleaned greased.
They are simple, robust units and appart from the occaisional regreasing don't give trouble.
Just replace the stupid dome heads with stainless steel or plated cap screws and you'll be fine. The body is just diecast, the cover isn't under any load so the last thing you need if lots of tension.
Really there's nothing complex or special about it.
If you do pull the springs out of the engaging mechanism by accident its a bit of a PITA but not that hard to get together again. Get it wrong and the cover wont go on - or it doesnt engage/disengage. I do try and avoid it but occaisionally it happens - especially if the hubs haven't been cleaned greased.
They are simple, robust units and appart from the occaisional regreasing don't give trouble.
Just replace the stupid dome heads with stainless steel or plated cap screws and you'll be fine. The body is just diecast, the cover isn't under any load so the last thing you need if lots of tension.
Really there's nothing complex or special about it.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
X2MightyMouse wrote:There's no magic or science to it and certainly mega bolts aren't needed.
If you do pull the springs out of the engaging mechanism by accident its a bit of a PITA but not that hard to get together again. Get it wrong and the cover wont go on - or it doesnt engage/disengage. I do try and avoid it but occaisionally it happens - especially if the hubs haven't been cleaned greased.
They are simple, robust units and appart from the occaisional regreasing don't give trouble.
Just replace the stupid dome heads with stainless steel or plated cap screws and you'll be fine. The body is just diecast, the cover isn't under any load so the last thing you need if lots of tension.
Really there's nothing complex or special about it.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
Replaced Disc Rotors & Front Hub Questions?
Special Thanks: MightyMouse & AJFeroza
Obtained new stainless steel screws - Coventry Fasteners, will replace larger Allen headed HT Bolts (mine chewed up by someone previous) was very little grease in there, I put good covering hitemp lithium wheel bearing grease in there, did not dislodge springs, will test 2W-4WD drive to axles later on today, did replace circlips, note: Toyota dealer-Ex Daihatsu claimed no parts sold separately for the hubs, true / false. Best regards from Ran
Obtained new stainless steel screws - Coventry Fasteners, will replace larger Allen headed HT Bolts (mine chewed up by someone previous) was very little grease in there, I put good covering hitemp lithium wheel bearing grease in there, did not dislodge springs, will test 2W-4WD drive to axles later on today, did replace circlips, note: Toyota dealer-Ex Daihatsu claimed no parts sold separately for the hubs, true / false. Best regards from Ran
Have 2 Ferozas, keen vehicle modder, do most repairs myself, 62years young, got the Feroza Bug....
The hubs are standard ASIN not a Daihatsu part anyway - so don't even bother talking to them. - But frankly i've never seen one break - and i've put WAY more torque through them then anyone else.
The circlips come from any bearing suppliers, just like the wheel bearings, seals etc etc. You can completely rebuild a front upright without talking to Daihatsu - which given the fact that you now have to go through Toyota is just as well
In fact the only part ive EVER BOUGHT from Daihatsu was a new idler arm. That may not sound like much - but believe me there's nothing on a Feroza i haven't rebuilt or butcherd.
Daihatsu for parts - the absolute last resort.
The circlips come from any bearing suppliers, just like the wheel bearings, seals etc etc. You can completely rebuild a front upright without talking to Daihatsu - which given the fact that you now have to go through Toyota is just as well
In fact the only part ive EVER BOUGHT from Daihatsu was a new idler arm. That may not sound like much - but believe me there's nothing on a Feroza i haven't rebuilt or butcherd.
Daihatsu for parts - the absolute last resort.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
For most of the front end gear - Idler arm bushes ($16), tie-rod ends(around $35 ea), balljoints(around $70), etc., call Bursons. They are WAY cheaper too 
I've just replaced most of these parts, plus a wheel bearing. Bearing was the only thing I paid somebody to do, and only because I needed it done in a hurry.
I've just replaced most of these parts, plus a wheel bearing. Bearing was the only thing I paid somebody to do, and only because I needed it done in a hurry.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
If you can find parts from other brands like TOYOTA CITROEN etc with the right tools and patient you can fix any ball joint (idler arm, pitman arm and more)
here is an example
its not from a Feroza but the cost of buying a new idler arm is big so why fix it.
here is an example
its not from a Feroza but the cost of buying a new idler arm is big so why fix it.
www.ferozaclub.gr
[url=http://www.ferozaclub.gr][img]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f387/heroicentaur/forum/sign.gif[/img][/url]
[url=http://www.ferozaclub.gr][img]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f387/heroicentaur/forum/sign.gif[/img][/url]
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