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60 series steering upgrade
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
60 series steering upgrade
hi. just wondering if anyone has done any steering upgrades on a 60 series. like another steering box ect. i have replaced my steering box with another 2nd hand one and i dont think it is much better. would a steering box from another car work better?
any thought would be good
cheers
any thought would be good
cheers
and what size tires? toyota steering needs a little more toe than normal for larger tires.
my bet would be on getting an alignment done at a place that knows their way around a solid front axle, and go from there. 60's don't wander normally.
ok, back to basics.
tire size
lift if any
extended shackles?
my bet would be on getting an alignment done at a place that knows their way around a solid front axle, and go from there. 60's don't wander normally.
ok, back to basics.
tire size
lift if any
extended shackles?
Spit my last breath
You can tighten up the steering box if there is alot of play. but do it in 1/4 turn incremets, checking it after each adjustment. Tighten it too much and it may bind when turning.
If you're running extended shackles, ditch them and spend the money on lifted springs. extended shackles are dodgy at best.
Also check over the front and rear for loose bolts, loose or too tight bearings and flogged out bushes etc.
If you're running extended shackles, ditch them and spend the money on lifted springs. extended shackles are dodgy at best.
Also check over the front and rear for loose bolts, loose or too tight bearings and flogged out bushes etc.
The worst part about being told you have Alzheimer's, is that it doesn't just happen once.
my money is on the lift/extended shackles. do you have caster correction plates in there?grizzley wrote:running 33's with an efs 3" lift which has extended shackles. the suspension is only 6 months old so i wont be gettin new stuff. how do you tighen up the steering box. thanks for ya help
Spit my last breath
Ditch the long shackles.grizzley wrote:yeah i have caster correction in there. i just want my steering to be a bit more solid and not wander so much.
You said you changed the tie rod ends, what about the drag link? The steering box end link's flog out after a fair few kilometers giving plenty of freeplay
On top of the steering box is a nut attached to a slotted screw. Loosen the nut and turn the screw clockwise to tighten. As I said do it in 1/4 turns at a time, running the steering lock to lock each time to check for binding (do it standing on the ground to load up the box)
Also make sure you've got plenty of air in the tyres
The worst part about being told you have Alzheimer's, is that it doesn't just happen once.
the problem is most likely steering geometry related, and *not* the box if you've replaced it with no improvement.grizzley wrote:yeah i have caster correction in there. i just want my steering to be a bit more solid and not wander so much.
buy/borrow a set of standard length shackles. put them on. see if it improves things. standard shackles cost SFA and are easier to swap to test than trying to adapt a new power steering box, then finding it's a geometry issue
what are the bushings like in the springs? i mean this minute, even if they are 6 months old, no guarentee their not flogged out.
get your toe measured. put a little more in it and see if it helps.
my money is on the springs/shackles.
Last edited by bad_religion_au on Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Spit my last breath
careful over adjusting that screw tho. too much tension on it will flog the box out quickly.oldmate wrote:Ditch the long shackles.grizzley wrote:yeah i have caster correction in there. i just want my steering to be a bit more solid and not wander so much.
You said you changed the tie rod ends, what about the drag link? The steering box end link's flog out after a fair few kilometers giving plenty of freeplay
On top of the steering box is a nut attached to a slotted screw. Loosen the nut and turn the screw clockwise to tighten. As I said do it in 1/4 turns at a time, running the steering lock to lock each time to check for binding (do it standing on the ground to load up the box)
Also make sure you've got plenty of air in the tyres
Spit my last breath
ok i might get a pair of standard shackles for the front to try. what do you mean drag link. there is no draglink on the 60s. all the bushes in the suspension are in good nick. could i put dropped hangers on to fix a geomatary problem. thanks for your help so far. ill get a wheel alignment this week and see if that helps things to
Theoretically, hypothetically, if you drove your vehicle with the steering disconnected, it would self centre and not wander.. Its not the steering gear that causes the self centring, its the steering geometry.. Tightening the box up is masking the problem, and as others have noted, will cause premature failure..
Its like being able to ride a push bike without holding the handle bars.. If you turned the front forks around you wouldnt be able to, it would steer like a shopping trolley.. Having the forks around the wrong way and tightening the bearings to help lock it on centre isnt fixing the problem..
Its like being able to ride a push bike without holding the handle bars.. If you turned the front forks around you wouldnt be able to, it would steer like a shopping trolley.. Having the forks around the wrong way and tightening the bearings to help lock it on centre isnt fixing the problem..
dropped spring hangers? yeah that would, but why would you bother? 3 inches of spring lift is too much anyway... let alone + shackle lift, + hanger lift... it'd be illegal too, not that extended shackles aren't already.grizzley wrote:ok i might get a pair of standard shackles for the front to try. what do you mean drag link. there is no draglink on the 60s. all the bushes in the suspension are in good nick. could i put dropped hangers on to fix a geomatary problem. thanks for your help so far. ill get a wheel alignment this week and see if that helps things to
Spit my last breath
if they will scrub because you take an inch of height out of the suspension, then they will scrub when your tire moves through the suspension cycle anyway, especially offroadgrizzley wrote:i have done the wqheel bearings in the last 6 months probably only done 10000kms. i dont really want to lower my car coz teh tyres will srub.
suspension lift doesn't give you any more useable tire clearance than standard suspension...
and 60's can run 33's on standard height springs???
Spit my last breath
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